Martin,if you get a chance and when the time comes to build your transceiver project check out Don's(W6JL) homebrew rig (via call search box),not quite your old school build but interesting just the same.With Don's big EARS and my 24 ft. high hex plus 5 watt qrp/cw I average 449 contact reports from him here in Maine.Mean time I'm awaiting your first xtmr. build.Keep the pics/reports comming.

Looks like I'll have to break out my muffled jungle drums after dark and use DNA genetic code beats.

All replies considered and appreciated,will try both non grounded frame as GP and X7G's 23 ft.GP radial option.

For an extra $150.00+tax I bought a glorified CB radio(IC-7200) and the 100W amp was included.

My home brew hex handles Maine winter ice/snow and 80 mph SANDY outer edge wind with no problem.I am sure any commercial built hex will do the same according to the many reviews.

You might want to recheck your radiator connection. Cast iron is quite porous and the usual radiator coatings,enamel etc.. will fill the pores and will need to be filed down to clean iron.

The pole tree trimmer already has the upside down U cutter head on it,just unbolt and take off the saw.

If inactivity is not an issue then Krakatoa should be prime for activation.

Thanks for responses.Antenna is vertical wire cut for 30 meters only.Re KC4MOP does this mean I can possibly do away with the tuned gp radials?

Also very detailed development,use and operation of this system throughout European/Baltic coastal regions described in the popular Patrick O'Brien (Aubrey-Maturin) series novels for those interested in early British Naval history.If you saw the movie" Master and Commander" you would see one of these stations in operation.

Situation: Full metal frame octagonal screen house 12 ft.dia. 10 ft. ht. on wood platform (canvas roof).

I would like to run a 23 ft. vertical wire ( 30m) from roof center peak with ground plane radials which would be about 10 ft. above ground.My questions are what possible effects will the frame have on the antenna,should antenna gp radials be connected to frame and if so should frame bottom be jumped from wood platorm to ground via braid/ground rod(s)? Frame is tightly screwed together and I have  continuity from top to bottom throughout.Any input appreciated.

Re:N3DT

Your rope climber device has merit,the main issue would be getting the device in close to the trunk among all the angled branches otherwise just get your messenger line up and over the wire and attach one of those combo branch pruner/cutter poles with a few rolling half hitches along its length haul her up and spend a little time fiddling around to get the cutter hook twisted over the rope/wire and pull on the long pole cutter lanyard and get the hell out of the way quick.

Re:KE3WD

Sounds to me like your neighbor was mixing his third Mud Slide.

Re:N3DT

Yes, it can be done but depending on type of tree it can be a difficult or relatively easy,also desired height and catenary lead space must be considered.For a coniferous type tree with fairly uniform and straight branches and tappered to the top you send up the appropriate lenght of your permenent loop line(weighted)via the various launching methods to the highest point(max for me has been 40-50 ft.) then go around back side of tree and re shoot back on opposite side of center trunk so that you now have a big U of rope around upper tree and both ends back a same ground point,this is why you need a lot of rope so you can get as far away as possibe from base of tree with shallowest angle to top as possible to avoid longer lower tiered branches during haul up.Tie a permenent 2 in.dia, loop(eye) in one end,marry to this loop(eye) a 5-10 ft. or appropriate length of permenent line which on the other end will be your pully and pre rigged  antenna halyard thru pully that already has ant wire and insulator attached.Now take the other(bitter) end of loop line and reeve thru the eye,You now have what looks like a giant lasso around high part of tree with a lenght of line with pully/halyard/antenna wire dangleing down from lasso eye.Now for the fun part and believe me this is a 2 man and 2 six pack operation.Both men as far back from tree as possible,one pulling loop(lasso) tight and other guiding ant/halyard combo away and between branch tips while loop is being cinched up to top of tree.You will be left with end of loop line to be tied off at tree base and your actual antenna  halyard.Once a year slack off loop line take a little strain on other end of antenna and tighten loop again,this will free loop line from what bark has started to grow around it.Obviously deciduous type trees with their various angled branches will offer a bit more challange and pre planning.It's a lot more easier for me to do it than explaine it.HI 

Some people just aren't wise enough to know when to get off the computer and get back on the air.