Both Vmware Fusion and Parallels Desktop (virtually identical products) have at least a 30 day trial option.  I tried both and settled on Parallels because I  found that the Coherence mode in Parallels offers better MAC OS / Windows integration. In this mode you can hide the windows desktop and just launch Windows apps in their own windows via a Windows Start menu in the Mac OS doc. This allows Windows and MAC OS apps to run side by side. Its pretty cool.  In addition to a WIN XP VM
(I need this for some work I am doing in MS .NET) I also have an UBUNTU Linux VM that I sometimes run.  Performance on my Macbook is excellent.

BTW for some simpler Windows apps don't rule out running them under WINE. I do this on my Acer Aspire One netbook running Ubuntu Netbook remix. I can run the Linux version of fldigi and my favorite Windows-based Ham Logging programs (N3FJP) side by side without any problems.

Mac OS provides a very stable environment for virtulization and using a product like Vmware fusion or Parallels Desktop allows you to run whatever apps ypu like without regard to what OS they were developed for.  

Michael VE3WMB

Have a peek at the Bushwacker by American Morse Equipment
http://www.americanmorse.com/bushwacker.htm

This comes as a kit for $99, with the optional base (which I recommend) for an extra $20.  I assembled one of these in about an hour, for a friend who only has the use of one hand ( he couldn't build it himself). The assembly was quite straightforward (you can download the manual) once I sorted out the parts. The only additional tool required (they supply 3 hex wrenches) is a medium phillips screwdriver.  

I am personally not a single-paddle guy (I use a bug and an dual lever paddle) but I must admit that the machining on this paddle is very very good, it looks really nice and it has a very nice feel. It is quite compact, so it could easily be used at home or for portable operation and the price is pretty good.

Best of luck in your choice,

Michael VE3WMB

I have both a Argonaut V and an OHR100a.

On TX the Argonaut V will put out 20W which when compared to the 5W that the OHR100A puts out is only +6db which equates to only
1 S-unit stronger that the OHR100a.
So in theory, with all other factors being equal, you should be able to work just about anything with the OHR100a that you can work with the Argonaut V.

The receiver on the Argonaut V is much more sophisticated than the
100a and IMHO the variable IF DSP filter works very well on this rig, but the 100a has a surprisingly sensitive and quiet receiver. I would say that for casual operating you won't notice a lot of difference but for something like contesting the Argonaut V would win out.

I have always been impressed with the performance of the OHR rigs and I would recommend the 100a if you are looking for a decent performing single band QRP CW rig.

For the price, I think that the Argonaut V is a very capable CW rig.
It is too bad that Ten-Tec no longer makes it. I certainly will never
part with mine.

I hope that this helps.

MIchael VE3WMB

Yes the SWL PSK rigs will work with pretty much any computer platform and Digital mode software.

Michael VE3WMB

P.S. For what it is worth I run FLDIGI on Windows, Mac OS X and
Ubuntu Linux and it works flawlessly.

The original Kenwood part number is W09-0515-05.

An equivalent is available from Mouser.com  as part number 639-cr2430-p1-2.  

This info was gleaned from the TS-50 Yahoo Group, which you might want to join. There are a lot of members with experience in repair and mods to this rig. This rig has been around since the early 1990s and most of the issues and questions you may encounter have already been dealt with by someone in the group.

Cheers,

Michael VE3WMB

Dick :

It was a good idea to feed this with ladderline. The so-called "Loop Skywire" has been in the ARRL Antenna Book (and Compendiums) for years and they claimed that you could use it all bands and feed it with coax. I noticed in my most recent copy of the Antenna Book that they have changed their tune and now recommend that you don't feed it with coax but instead use ladderline or open-wire line as the losses with Coax are quite extreme on some bands due to the high SWR on the feedline.

I am thinking about putting up something similar at my cottage as a backup antenna.  I currently have a sloping Delta loop (100 ft in circumference) at home and have found that it works very well, and is much quieter on receive than my other antennas often giving me a 3 S-UNIT improvement in S/N.  I am feeding it with a short length of open-wire line to an auto-tuner mounted in a waterproof box on the side fence in my backyard. I often use this as a RX antenna on 80m while transmitting on my inverted L.

Thanks for taking the time to post your experiences with your antenna.

Cheers,

Michael VE3WMB

The slingshot + fishing reel works pretty well. You don't actually have to
mount the fishing reel on the slingshot you can secure the fishing reel to a stake (I use a big screwdriver)  just slightly behind you and off to whatever side you hold the slingshot. Try to get the angle of the reel
to more or less match the direction you will be aiming.

Having the line on the reel works better as I have found that when you lay the fishing line on the ground it always manages to find something to get caught up on.

Oh yeah, do yourself a favor and invest in a pair of safety glasses, they are a lot cheaper than surgery to repair a detached retina !

Best of luck

Michael VE3WMB

I agree with N4UM.  

You will find that you can't set and forget the
levels. You will see variations from band  to band as well as when you
pick a high or low audio frequency for transmitting in a application
that support panoramic tuning.

I bought a SignalLink USB and one of the things that I like about it is that
you can adjust the levels from the front panel of the interface which is
a lot more convenient that messing with sliders in the Windows mixer.

Michael VE3WMB

The SignalLink USB works fine with my MacBook (OS 10.5.7)
and fldigi.  

If you are still using Multimode I would suggest that you download and try fldigi. Its free and it supports a lot of different modes very very well.

Michael VE3WMB

I didn't see anyone else mention this so I will.

Whatever you decide to use to send, paddles and a keyer or a straight key, I suggest that you get and read a copy of William Pierponts book "The Art and Skill of Radio Telegraphy".  It can be downloaded for free from :

http://www.qsl.net/n9bor/n0hff.htm

I recall that there is some very good information in this about proper techniques for sending with whatever means you choose.

Personally I found that recording my sending periodically and playing it back later was a good test. If you can't copy your own sending then you need some work. As soon as you feel that you are up to it then try to get on the air and make some contacts. This will help to build confidence and speed.

There are lots of groups promoting CW these days, such as SKCC (Straight Key Century Club), NAQCC (North American QRP CW Club and FISTS.  Join some of these groups and through their online forums you can often arrange slow speed SKEDS with other hams that are in the same boat as you are. FISTS even has a Code Buddy program that can match you up with another Ham who volunteers to be a CW elmer.
There are also a number of slow-speed nets that you can check into as well.

Best of luck and stick with it.

Michael VE3WMB

Daniel :

If you can find the space, something like a G5RV would be a good starter antenna but you would need 102 feet. Keep in mind that this could be put up as an inverted-vee and the ends can be bent around to fit the lot. It won't really matter what the orientation is as it will be mostly omni-directional anyway.

You could even go with a G5RV Jr (1/2 the size) if you are willing to give up on 80m for now (this could even be made to work on 80).
It will work fine even if you can only get it 20 or so feet off of the ground.

If you don't want to build it yourself Durham Radio sells the Buxcomm version for < $100.  You would probably still need a tuner however.

Most of these 20 - 30 foot commercial verticals will not give you any kind of decent performance or bandwidth on 80m anyway as they are simply too short.

Something like a W3EDP (i.e 86 foot end-fed wire) can be easily hidden and with a reasonable tuner can be used multi-band (mine even loads on 160m) .

There are lots of other options.

If you are located close to Ottawa I can give you a hand. If not please feel free to email me directly anyway at ve3wmb at rac.ca .

Cheers,

Michael VE3WMB

Rob :

Glad to hear that it worked out for you.

73

Michael VE3WMB

I am a lefty and I have always wired my paddles so that the dit is the
right one and dah is the left one (opposite to what righties use).
It seemed more  natural to me to send dits with the thumb, as
a right-handed person would do if they follow the previously mentioned wiring convention.

About ten years ago I decided to learn how to send with a Bug (I started collecting them and wanted to use them on the air). So as not to mess up my sending with a paddle I taught myself to send with my right hand using a bug (this took lots of practice but actually requires less dexterity than manipulating a dual-lever paddle). I normally send with my left hand using a straight key, but I discovered that the side-effect of my learning to send with a bug is that I can now send on a straight key with either hand.

I have also dabbled with a sideswiper (aka cootie) key, using my left hand so as not to mess up my bug sending. I figure its different enough from sending with a dual paddle that maybe I can learn without messing up my paddle skills ;-)  Maybe someday I'll get serious about this. Now if only someone would just give me a Bunnell
Double Speed Key !

Michael VE3WMB

I have put one into a 30m OHR  Explorer II. I don't remember the details but I can look into it if you are still interested.

Michael VE3WMB

P.S. I also have .PDF scans of the schematic and alignment instructions for a 30M Explorer if you are interested.

I agree with Mac.

Personally I prefer European style sending with the arm off the table.  I was fortunate enough to have been given a Swedish Military straight key by a friend and I must admit it is the most amazing straight key I have ever used. Like the Blade it uses a leaf spring, resulting in absolutely no side-to-side motion whatsoever and almost effortless sending.  It uses the "classic" Swedish key design like  the Lenart Pettersson keys and
the similar Hi-Mound HK-802.

Based on the reputation of Begali keys and the feedback I have received from friends who own one of his keys I would say if you are looking at buying a "Blade" go for it. I am sure you will not regret it.

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB