Back in the late 50's the Army had the bright idea of using TV to transmit battlefield pictures back to the REMFs who could watch the going on from the safety of their bunkers.  A puff piece I saw some years ago about it showed Bob the camera man standing up behind a "big as a dormfridge" tube type TV camera while the battle flowed around him.  Yeah, right. 

I think sometimes we expect Ham Radio Outlet type attention from folks selling very useful devices which they do as a part time business.  Without companies like Idiom this hobby would be lacking some very useful gear.   I have one of their keyers, built it from a kit, and it does everything I expected.  I check their product listing on a regular basis to see if they have a new product in which I might be interested. 

No question,  "resonant" is not what one should be chasing as the Holy Grail, , but making sure a receiver sees 50 ohms at the 50 input terminal IS important for signal strength purposes.  Not many "high end" receivers come with an HF "long wire" input these days, if they do it is for use below 500KHZ or so.  A used "low power" tuner with a long wire input, like the dreaded MFJ series  is fine. 

Perhaps you can find someone with a nice old HP signal generator with calibrated output and get some hard numbers.   Using the attenuator function gives you a nice weak signal to work with which you can keep reducing as you repeak.  I always use the calibrator function as a rough test of sensitivity band to band (keeping in mind that cal signals drop off as you got higher in frequency) and if the RX doesn't have one you can feed one in from another receiver since the cal signal is injected into the front end.  Friend of mine calls it the "Vulcan mind meld system".  DON'T use a transciever unless you are REALLY sure the transmitter is not going to be triggered!  A transceiver  with solid state RX and a tube final is OK so long as you DON'T turn the heaters on. 

Yoyu bought a god receiver, now you need to put up a longwire antenna of some random length and pick up a used, simple, tuner with "longwire" input.  Just about any of the small MFJ tuners will do, (despite all the jokes about the company).
What you will find is the "good receivers" like ther Icom, alike to see 50 ohms (except for the "lowband" wire input which is for 500 KMZ and below, and a little tuner will  make the wire :look like" 50 ohms to the receiver 50 ohm input.  Easy to use, just crank the dials and look for the strongest signal level. 

Roybi battery powered tool chargers can be REAL annoying. 

Where's the ham antenna?

My 102 sounds fine with a Kenwood MC 80  plugged directly into the jack. 

We cleaned up on the very good Kenwood TK's years ago.  100 watts on 6 fm for 50 bucks, UHF and UHF also available back then.  This is old news.

Just a troll, nothing more.

I suggest all "OOs" check to see that their noise blankers are off. 

WHen you are starting from scratch, one of those  CB swr bridges with a field strength function is not a bad idea. 

DO  you have ANY gear with a crystal calibrator in it, and old general coverage receiver or whatever, the calibrator  signal from one of those can be fed into your 10 meter rig and used as a test.  Unplug the mike, and turn the rf output control all the way down, you don't want to transmit into the other radio by mistake.  Perhaps a local op has a signal generator you could use.  Check the QRZ database for nearby hams, you can do it by zip code.  What you are going to find is that to do ham radio right, you are going to need a wattmeter/swr bridge and a dummy load to start, and it never hurts to have at least one receiver, even an OLD one around as a backup.  The list of test gear which is "handy" to have is not short. 

They thrive on being noticed.  If ignored, they go away.

Google WA1ION, Mark has written "the book" on am broadcast band dxing.