The radio is a Yaesu FTdx5000.

I’m new to the digital game and have been using BPSK-31 for one week with a SignaLink USB with DigiPan software and running 20 watts.

I have two issues:

 1). My RF output power doesn’t remain constant after I initially set it at 20 watts, it fluctuates. I tune the rig for max output which is 100 watts. On my computer I then set the “Speakers” tab at full and the “Wave” tab at half way as instructed everything else is muted. I then turn the SignaLink TX knob up for a reading of 20 watts output making sure there is no ALC reading. At this point everything looks good. Then, when I turn the unit “off” and back “on” again, my output power will either drop down by 10 watts or so without me touching anything else and not moving my cursor on the waterfall dial. This can go back and forth. Also, after I shut down for the day and come back the next morning (or anytime after being away from the desk for a while) and then turn things back “on”, my output power reads way up there, anywhere from 60 to 80 watts for example. I then have to re-tune all over again.

I connected a dummy load and checked the output power and it reads a constant 20 watts when initially set so I know the SignaLink USB is operating properly.

2). I'm able to make many initial contacts but lose some because I drift off their freq. without touching anything. I can see my “flag” jump (usually to the left) of the incoming freq. and have to re-position it into the center of the incoming signal again.

I certainly welcome corrective suggestions.

Thanks, 73, Steve

I have one other question.  If anyone has physical access to viewing that power switch, can you confirm that there is a total of 7 wires connected to it plus the capacitor?  That would be a big help to me.  Thanks again.

Thanks fellas,  I was able to get a 4700pF @ 1000 v. from Mouser Electronics.
I appreciate the help.

I'm replacing the power switch on a TL-922A amplifier and I need to replace the ceramic capacitor soldered to it as well.  Can anyone with this amp advise me what the value of this capacitor is?  Does anyone have this capacitor available for sale?  Tnx, Steve  spz1@att.net

I'm replacing the power switch on a TL-922A amplifier and I need to replace the ceramic capacitor soldered to it as well.  Can anyone with this amp advise me what the value of this capacitor is?  Does anyone have this capacitor available for sale?  Tnx, Steve  spz1@att.net

Thanks guys, the "Squelch" button and setting was the issue!  I have it under control now.

I am using the SignaLink USB interface for RTTY with the MMTY software program. I would like to know how to stop the on-going random numbers, letters and characters from streaming across the receive screen when I'm in idle mode, that is, not transmitting or receiving someone's signals?  So far I can't find anything that indicates how to stop this annoying issue. I suspect it's something I'm not configuring properly in the setup process. Can anyone help?

I'm looking for a simple software program that will allow me to operate CW only with the SignaLink interface unit and an FTdx5000 rig.  The computer program is WindowsXP.  Any suggestions?

I'm looking for a simple software program that will allow me to operate CW only with the SignaLink interface unit and an FTdx5000 rig.  The computer program is WindowsXP.  Any suggestions?

Thanks guys ... further checking reveals I'd be safe in using an Ameritron ARB-704 between the rig and amp.

I'm trying to find out if the Yaesu FTdx5000 is compatible with a Kenwood TL-922A amplifier.  Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks John ... I've done more checking and find that the HC5 will serve my purpose well.

I have a new FTdx5000D radio and I'm currently using the hand mic that came with the rig. I plan on getting a new desk mic but first I'd like to get some recommendations as to what mic and element would be well suited to the FT5k. I operate SSB almost exclusively with both, general rag-chewing and DX. Until now I've had all Kenwood equip. and used the MC60 mic with excellent audio reports. The FT5k is my first Yaesu experience. Thanks for your help.

These meters don't readily come apart -- they consist of plastic housings that are glued together and although they can be separated, it's a rather laborious job, something I might entertain when and if the existing bulbs burn out. It's a bit of careful work but N7FM presented an effective approach with photos using LED's at the following website:  http://www.n7fm.com/astron_lamp.html

For now, I think I'll simply insert a 1-watt 20-ohm resistor and use the existing 20 volt source provided inside the power supply.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions.