According to the Allied Communications Publication (ACP131E) the Q signal "QAU" means "I am about to jettison fuel".

Dino KL0S/4

Point your browser at www.qsl.net and then search for Hammarlund; you'll find a lot of info.

Dino KLØS/4

Interestingly enough Kenwood (at least with the TS940S) actually runs AFSK when the radio is in the FSK mode.  They derive the mark and space audio tones from the master oscillator (with appropriate dividing circuits obviously); the FSK output control on the 940 is done with the Processor Out control.

Dino KLØS/4

You may also want to consider a more permanent arrangement with an in-line tap.  These taps have been made by various manafacturers over the years...I have one from Bird, and a couple more from others.  That way your counter is protected and as in the case of the Bird tap you can vary the amount of coupling to meet the needs of whatever test equipment you're using.  The other benefit of doing it this way is that you have a convenient/immediate connection to the line for test gear other than just your counter.

GL -- Dino KLØS/4

The "Poor Man's Spectrum Analyzer" is still alive and well.  Here's the URL:

http://www.science-workshop.com/

The other posters are correct regarding your budget vs. what you can find surplus.  You might also take a look at the work done by W7ZOI for a better instrument than the one from Science Workshop...point your browser at:

http://141.218.23.75/cotton/SA1.html

and/or

http://www.bright.net/~kanga/kanga/

Depending on what your host of other test equipment is you might want to consider a service monitor that contains additional capabilities depending on age and manafacturer.  I shopped around a few years back and picked up a used IFR unit that has a built in spectrum analyzer, RF signal generator, sweep and tracking generators, and many others.  Do a google search for "service monitors" and you'll see lots of examples.

GL -- Dino KLØS/4

You'll also find that there is hardware (plastic mostly) that is specifically designed to mount LEDs to chassis panels.  It's really simple...drill the hole and push the plastic collar thru; the collar "fingers" expand on the other side to grip the panel and hold the mount in place.  Then just slip the LED into the mount and it's held there simply by friction.  That's the "cheap" way as there are more expensive LEDs that are designed with the mounting hardware already attached.

As for insulating the wires I use either pieces of "spaghetti" insulation or if simultanesouly attaching a required dropping resistor I'll slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wires and cinch it down once the connections have been soldered.

GL -- Dino KLØS/4