"I measure the key line voltage dropping from 7.6VDC to 0.78VDC *when keyed by the RIGBlaster*.However, the 0.78VDC keying line voltage is too high for the Harbach, and the amp won't key."

So, are you saying that you have the Nomic hooked corectly to the MIC connector, which keys up the rig just fine. Then you have the amp PTT line (.7vdc @ 1.5ma) hooked up correctly to ACC pins 3 & 2? Which you MUST have at some time since you say the amp keys fine on SSB & CW.

So where exactly are you measuring this drop from 7.6 to .78vdc? If the key line voltage for the Harbac is .7vdc @ 1.5ma, where is the 7.6vdc coming from?

"The spec for the ICOM says that it will key between -0.5VDC and 0.8VDC, and it keys fine **with the RIGBlaster**." That Icom Spec is for the HF PTT on the 13 pin DIN ACC connector on the back of the rig. Icom calls it "HSEND for HF PTT".

You don't have the Nomic PTT line going to the ACC pins do you? (The reason I ask is because you say it "keys fine with the rigblaster.") The Nomic keys the 706 via the PTT line in the MIC connector. Sorry, had to ask.....

The ACC1 Conector Pin 3 Orange wire is where the Amp PTT line should go, ground to Pin 2 Red wire. It will safely (supposedly) pull to ground any voltage
-0.5VDC to 0.8 VDC up to 20ma, which will key your amp. Keying spec for your Harbach mod seems to be 0.7vdc @ 1.5ma so that should work with plenty of headroom. And you say it does on so SSB & CW.

The Rigblaster uses an optoisolator to help keep  RFI out of the keying circuitry. The other models besides the Nomic also use audio isolation transformers for the same reason. They also have a PTT out line for an amp.

You don't need to run an amp when operating PSK-31.
25 watts max to a decent antenna is fine.

If the Nomic (which I am not familiar with) keys up the 706 just fine. And if the 706 Keys up the amp just fine, just leave the amp off when runnng PSK31.
Or am I missing  something in the setup?

"just listening as I am studying for the General and learning cw"

Welcome to the hobby, and terrific that you are learning CW. That will put you ahead of the masses when you get up on HF. Listening? When you finish learning CW you will aready have limited HF CW priviledges on 80m,40m & 15m with your Tech ticket.

Your General Class study manual should have a chart in it outlining the bands, and what frequencies/modes are allocated to which licensees.
I would make a copy of it and keep it near your radio
as you are tuning accross the bands. Icom used to make a nice spiffy color coded one you could pick up at ham stores for free in their literature rack. It also had a country prefix list on the back. That was a very handy feature for a newbie like me before the Al Gore invented the Internet.

Here's a band allocation chart you can download in PDF from the ARRL:

http://www.dxzone.com/cgi-bin/dir/jump2.cgi?ID=14679

There's ton of them on Al's Internet, here's a good list:

http://www.dxzone.com/catalog/Ham_Radio/Band_Plans/

Learn CW (Morse Code) and use it to chase DX. Your 100w will stand a better chance of getting through and the CW ops are far better mannered than the SSB ops in the pileups. Also set yourself for RTTY, PSK31 and the other digital modes. Often everyone will be chasing a DX'pedition on the two "major modes" (CW & SSB) and the  DX station will have a mutch easier easy to catch RTTY signal.

All you need for the digital modes is a computer, free software downloaded from the NEt and an interface. You can buy a commercial inteface for $100 or so, or make one with parts from Radio Shack for a few bucks.(Depending on how fancy you want to make it)

I'd just put up the long wire for listening right now.
Wait until you decide what band(s) you want
to operate on before deciding on a transmitting
antenna.

I wholeheartedly agree with Paul, AC5S.

First buy a resonably priced used solid state rig like IC-718, TS-450, FT-840. Then you will have a nice radio to make contacts without a fuss. You'll also be able to monitor the bands (and jump in) while
you are working on your "cool looking" tube rig.

I too love the really old tube radios. I own a 1937 Philco 37-650 Shortwave/Am floor model. The cabinet is in superb condition, not sure if it works or not. Haven't powered it up in 30 years. Cost a whopping $100 in 1937. With inflation, what cost $100 in 1937 would cost $1,484.29 in 2008.

http://www.radioatticarchives.com/radio.htm?radio=1967

I also have two very nice German manufactured Metz table top Shortwave SW/AM/FM sets.

Congrats on your General ticket, see you on the bands.
73, Ken AD6KA

It's always fun when you see ham equipment
on TV shows or the movies. I once saw a TV
show where they were using a Kenwood TS-940
as a police scanner, freq was 14.xxx I recall.

Prop guys from production crews used to come
into HRO Burbank quite often to rent demo equipment
for video/films, etc. Probably still do.

Remember the Sci Fi movie "Frequency"?
The plot premise was a bit silly but I liked
it anway.

By K5DVW

"Calling CQ with CW or RTTY at legal power limit will get them to move."

Works for me, I use a KW RTTY, call DQ DX and run some RY strings in there.

"Even better if you make a valid contact"
Done that several times too, and got chewed out (rightfully so) by an oldtimer for running unnecessary RY's!
 
I have had 10m CW and digital DX QSOs
QRM'd by these CB and freebander idiots.
Some may question the ethics of fighting
them by calling on top of them, but I see nothing wrong with it if you are operating legally.

"And make sure there's a fuse in the radio's DC power line."

Good advice. I would use two fuses,
one on the positive side and one on the
negative side, both close to the battery.

Hi Austin:
Just wanted to say welcome to ham radio, and that's so nice to see young people here on the forum asking good questions....and asking the reasons WHY "the old hams tell me I need one".

OH yeah, it's so great that your getting into HF so early in your ham career!

I'll leave the tech answers to people who can explain things better.

73, Ken  AD6KA

"The reason CB ops call the final transistors pills is because thats the closest thing they know to associtate them with. Probably because most of them pop pills on a regular basis."

They should take their dead amp "pills" and grind 'em up and smoke 'em. MMMMM...that beryllium silica in there will work wonders on your lungs!

DISCLAIMER: This is just a joke. Asbestos, beryllium and crystalline silica (quartz) are the most dangerous types of dust. There is no effective treatment for the chronic illnesses caused by dust, such as pneumonoconiosis and fibrosis.

You might think about getting a PSK Meter:
http://www.ssiserver.com/info/pskmeter/

It's a microprocessor-based RF signal sampler that periodically checks your RF output, computes its IMD locally, and automatically sets the sound card's audio level to provide the highest RF output with minimum distortion.

Only 40 bucks!

"PSKmeter is probably the MOST IMPORTANT development for PSK31 since DigiPan!"

--Skip Teller, KH6TY, creator of Digipan.

Kerry:

Thanks for info, sorry about the problem.
Hmm...I will send you a Gmail account to use.
thanks again, Ken

>"I'm a newbie, so I am looking on eBay for an affordable rig."

Congratulations and welcome to the hobby.

First of alll, I would strongly advise against buying
a used "affordable" rig site unseen on Ebay. Yes there are some deals, but lots of stuff isn't as advertised. If you are going to buy a rig off of Ebay, I would find someone selling a radio within a reasonable driving distance, then take an experienced ham with you to check it out IN PERSON and on the air. I'm sure one of the fellows from the local club would be delighted to help you. He can also give you some pointers about price, value, strong & weak points of a certain rig.  

Forget about the ads that say "I don't know anything about this radio but all the lights come on and sound comes out the speaker" or "It was my uncle's and he always took great care of his radios".

I would stay away from any tube rigs at this point in your career. Buy solid state stuff only. (I guess I am assuming you are looking for an HF rig, not much VHF/UHF tube stuff out there.)

Hey, use the bicolor LED's. Common lead is usually cathode, but better check. Install a little toggle switch and choose the color to suit your mood.
EVEN BETTER....Do this: Have one color for transmit and the other one for receive! Impress your friends!
Wait a minute, that project may require you to actually  think for 5 minutes....Anyway, write it up and send it in to QST for the "Hint & KInks" section.

Um, before the flames start, the above is called 'satire'.

73, Ken AD6KA