I don't think you have to spend hundreds of dollars to get a usable RF signal generator.
If you look for a used model from the 1970s or later from Heathkit, Leader, Eico or Tenna, they can be very useful for occasional use and cost less than $100.

If you have a radio with a digital readout, that is handy for checking the generator's frequency. The unit may need a little cleaning up and tightening to work it's best, but that's part of the fun. Let it warm up and run for a while before using it.

Another test method is using a signal tracer. This can be as simple as a little audio amp with speaker (using a small disc capacitor in series with the hot lead) that you can listen to the signal at various points in the circuit to see where it drops out.

You don't have to have the latest test equipment to troubleshoot vintage gear, especially the tube stuff. Get yourself some books on vintage radio repair, be careful, and you'll learn to troubleshoot with time and effort. Practice on a not-too-valuable radio to start with.

I have had good experience with used Heathkit test equipment. I have a VTVM, a capacitor tester, an RF probe and a signal generator of theirs.

The Heathkit model IG-102 RF signal generator is a solid and well made unit that, even though it has tubes, is very stable once it's warmed up a bit. You just have to make sure all the connections and grounds inside are clean and make good contact.

I think I got one of these for $20 at a swap meet and they are available on Ebay as well.

I have a Heathkit SB-101 that I just wired to my Ameritron AL-811.
Even though the ALC is connected, when I select TUNE on the Heathkit, the Ameritron
grid current meter pegs and the adjustable control on the back of the amp doesn't
change the reading.

What's the best way to tune up the amp in this setup? I noticed when
in SSB TX, the ALC control on back of the amp does vary the output.
Is the whistle test the only way?

Well, Finally I got this thing repaired! Thanks everyone for your help. It turns out that the cams had slipped even before I took them apart,
maybe a previous owner had it apart and not quite put it together right.

I can always count on good and friendly repair advice here on eHam.net, so thanks again!

See you on the air, 73s,
Kit
KG6PHS

Thanks for all the tips. I'm starting to think that the number of cam turns is off, or they have slipped.
The freq. has stayed consistently at 200 Kc high, and I don't think very much solvent got inside.

Well, I have not been able to fix it by blowing out any residue. I took off the radio front panel, and the top as well as the silver foil cover on the front of the LMO so I could direct my new can of dust-off in there and liberally blew it out.

Still 200 Kc high! Even though I never removed the cam collar, I should loosen it and rotate the shaft 2 turns
to bring it back in range I'm thinking.

Other than that, something is defective and the whole unit would need to be replaced.
It's hard to imagine how I could have broken it by loosening the cams though.

How do you have your G5RV mounted? How high is it, and is the wire or feedline close to
anything metallic or other obstructions?

Do you have a long run of coax to the G5RV? Do you have any kind of balun?

Maybe you could try to adjust your mounting situation, and
work your way around not having an analyzer by using the SWR meter
as best you can with reception reports from other hams in the area
to improve things.

73s, Kit

Yes, I think it may have been the DEOXit getting in there.
I'll have to try to remove it, and will have to be more careful
next time with the spray.

Thanks,
Kit

Thanks for the tip. It sounds right, but how could that be? I did not loosen the collar or remove any of the cam washers, I only sprayed switch cleaner to free them up, and it had been working in the past before they got gunked up.

I wish there was another way, but I can't think of one. Thanks again.

Hello,

I just finished putting my SB-101 back together after fixing stuck tabs on the
LMO shaft that were keeping the radio dial from tuning all the way down the band.

The LMO does 5 full rotations now, and stops at the band ends, but the
frequency is 200 Kc. high on both RX and TX!

This is a lot. Did I wreck something inside by spraying solvent on the tabs
to loosen them? I'd hate to start messing with the LMO trimmer if that isn't the problem.

Any help appreciated. I cannot find alignment info for the LMO itself online anywhere.

Thanks,
Kit

OK, finally I got somewhere on this. I really needed that assembly manual. After some fiddling, I was able to set the cam to the right position and it WORKS!!!

Thanks Jim for the elmering, and everyone else involved too. Look for me in the near future on
the AM net here in southern California.

73s,
Kit  KG6PHS

Well, now I know, the cam was mis-aligned. The question is, what is the correct alignment?
The one photo in the manual of the bottom shows it, but is that for the 40 meter band switch position?

Wow Jim,

I think you may have something there! I didn't mention one other fault with this rig, cause
I thought it might be an intentional change- the band switch won't go to 11 meters!
It is a complex cam system under there, but with a little analysis, I should be able to get it working again.

Thanks, I'll keep you posted.

Well, I am almost at my wit's end trying to get 80m working on this unit. I was able to take the front panel off,
but made the mistake of breaking the flexible insulating connector between the main tuning shaft and C1, so I had to make another one. I found a cracked resistor inside the VFO box(R5), replaced that, checked SW1 and re-soldered a bunch of connections, but could not find any other faults.

It still has the same problem. There aren't that many frequency-determining parts for 80m in the VFO section, right? The switches look fine, so all that's left is to take the front and VFO box off again and replace C5, C6, C14, C15 and C17 and hope that does it.

Thanks for all the help.

OK, now I get a response and output with the 80m crystal that's in there when I switch it to XT1. So that means it must be the VFO. I guess I'll have to take apart the front panel so I can get to that far corner inside the VFO cover once it's removed. Maybe it's the 160/80m trimmer in there or something?

It's a start!!!