Same here.... was quite interesting when venomousreptiles.org loaded up.  Whooops.

Yep - that's what I noticed when I tried it at 500 degrees tonight - seemed a bit cold and didn't appear to be getting good "liquid" solder joints and I had to bump it up a bit. 

Hello,

Thanks everybody for the comments / assistance offered.  The surface mount components were dang cheap from Digi-Key so I ordered plenty of extras, just in case I get a little too excited with the soldering iron.

VK2TIL - Excellent advice on the tip, thanks.  I have a "screwdriver" tip that I will probably end up using.  I failed to think about the importance of thermal mass when I thought about what tip to use.  I know this certainly does make a difference based on my experience soldering on PL259s.

I guess we'll put "flux" in the same category (controversial) as baluns and j-poles.  :-)  I have a flux pen and was thinking of wetting the pads before-hand but will also take note that flux is no substitute for a clean solder pad.  I also have a brass scrubber pad to keep the tip clean, as suggested.

AJ4WC - Thanks for the link to the video.  I'll put the machine on the Christmas list this year but I suspect Santa won't think I was *that* good.  I have noticed reading datasheets for some of these components that they recommend "pre-heating" the components as well.  Several of the sheets also suggest solder temperatures that doesn't exceed ~526F for no more than 5 seconds.

I guess the plan will be to maybe try ~500F and see how it works, adjusting hotter if it appears it is taking too long or I'm getting cold joints.

73,
Dan / ab0re

Hello,

I need to replace a few surface-mount chip-style capacitors and resistors on a project here.  I'm attempting to determine the correct soldering temperature.  My soldering station is a WES50 that does 350 - 850 degrees Fahrenheit and I'd likely be using either the "ETO" .8mm long conical tip or "ETS" .4mm long conical tip.  My solder is Kester "44" rosin core solder, .031" diameter.

I've searched for the answer online but have been finding numerous different answers to this question, most answers being in the 500 - 700 degree F range.  Sure, I could try different temperature ranges and find what works best, but I'd rather cut down on the learning curve by listening to advice from those of you who have experience soldering Surface Mount components.  Is a higher temperature preferred with less time with the soldering iron on the pad/component?  Or is a lower temperature needed?

Thanks & 73,
Dan / ab0re

You got it backwards - Digikey has no minimum order and VERY reasonable shipping costs.  Mouser has a minimum order requirement.

I thought "195 series" and rg-58 were the same thing (195 refers to the outer diameter of the coax, .195", which should be the same as RG-58).  I think LMR-195, LMR-240, etc, are just Times Microwave trademarked names.  For flexibility the big thing to look for is whether the center conductor is stranded or solid.  Stranded is a bit more lossy, but at a mere 10' you are not going to notice a fraction of a dB difference.

You'll be quite happy with the M2 2M4.  I've owned a couple over the years and the perform nicely.  The T-match is spot-on if you set it per the manual's recommendation.  (Gamma match designs can be a huge pain in the rear to adjust).  The only negative with the M2 antennas is they detune significantly if they get a layer of ice on them (resonant point will shift to lower than 140MHz).

He hit the nail on the head.  And, the "Remote Control" abilities of the V71 allow you to activate / de-activate crossband, change power levels, frequencies, etc, via DTMF tones on the "control channel" you specifiy, which addresses another whole set of problems with crossbanding.  Hook a 12VDC muffin fan behind your V71 if you plan on high duty cycles and it'll stay cool as a cucumber.  And it's always good operating practice to run a CTCSS (PL Tone Encode AND *Decode*) or DCS on your crossband frequency.  Nothing will get you unfriended more quickly than crossbanding static / intermod / etc into your local repeater.

I put together an artical on the wireless control feature outlined above - it can be downloaded from mods.dk.

I think what Clint is saying is that you'd be surprised (and not in a good way) to see what the SWR is on most rubber duck antennas.  It's nothing for them to see a 3:1 SWR regularly (it varies wildly depending on where you are when you transmit) and the HT does fine.  In other words, it'd be good advice to check the SWR, but if you're TX/RX signals are okay you can bet the SWR is no worse than what your HT has seen via the rubber duck antenna.

Ditto the kudos for DXE.  They've got some awesome products - their mast clamps and boom-to-mast plate are a dream come true.   They've got the best price on the Signalink USB.  They've always shipped every one of my orders very promptly (same day or next business day) and the order arrived promptly and well-packed.  I love thumbing through their catalog.  They've got it right.....  specialize in what they do best and let the other vendors handle the other nickel & dime aspects of the hobby.

Wow - a lot of haters out there.  If you don't want to do the D-Star contest, don't.  Nobody is holding a gun to your head and making you.  In fact, I'm betting those with all the animosity towards D-Star here probably don't even have D-Star radios so they won't even know the contest is going on.  "Spin the dial" and find something better to complain about.

In regards to the reference to Part 97, I guess that's a matter of opinion, too:

"§97.1 Basis and purpose.-

(a) Recognition and enhancement of the value of the amateur service to the public as a voluntary noncommercial communication service, particularly with respect to providing emergency communications."

- Although many look at D-Star as "cheating", it does have it's place, particularly with emergency communications as it offers a more seamless internet linking between ham stations than other alternatives (Echolink, IRLP, etc, but I guess I digress as we're not bashing those here).  Mix in a little D-Rats and DPRS and it's a viable contender with Packet Radio and plain APRS as well.

"(b) Continuation and extension of the amateur's proven ability to contribute to the advancement of the radio art.

(c) Encouragement and improvement of the amateur service through rules which provide for advancing skills in both the communications and technical phases of the art.

(d) Expansion of the existing reservoir within the amateur radio service of trained operators, technicians, and electronics experts."

- This is going to get on many people's nerves, but like it or not VOIP is the way everything is going now-a-days.  I haven't had a regular "twisted pair" landline at my house for years.  To completely reject this technology would be complete hypocrisy when we say we want to advance the radio art.  We need to keep up with the times regarding the technology we utilize and the skills necessary to utilize said technology.  People had this "the sky is falling" mentality when SSB hit the scene, too, but we're all still okay.  Relax.

"(e) Continuation and extension of the amateur's unique ability to enhance international goodwill."

- Okay, even after my rant I'll agree a D-Star contest is a bit on the lame side, but at least it should enhance some international goodwill.  Some hams don't have the real estate needed to put up HF antennas to make DX-contacts over RF.  Let them have a little fun on D-Star (and Echolink.... and IRLP....), and be there for them when they're ready and able to get their feet wet in HF.

Dan / ABØRE

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the clarification (and the history lesson - very interesting!)

73,
Dan / ab0re

"Magnum",


My point exactly...  Let me elaborate:

The Radio Amateur is:
CONSIDERATE never knowingly operating in such a way as to lessen the pleasure of others.    << Unfortunately, operators who are deliberately ignorant "lessen the pleasure of others", over a geographic range spanning thousands of miles because RF has a tendacy to propogate well sometimes. >>

PROGRESSIVE with knowledge abreast of science, a well built and efficient station, and operation beyond reproach.   << No need to even comment on this one.  Again, the deliberately ignorant operator comes nowhere near this definition.  >>
 
PATRIOTIC with station and skill always ready for service to country and community << Again, the deliberately ignorant operator is NEVER ready with the skills ready to service his country and community.  In fact, they do a disservice to their communities by creating a false sense of hope that they can actually be of use. >>

I'm not saying we shouldn't be friendly.... and I've done more than my fair share at pointing newbies in the right direction in a patient, friendly manner. I'm simply it's up to EACH individual operator, especially the more-seasoned operators, to try to increase their technical understanding.   

It's ironic that you quote an "Amateur's Code" from 1928, 83 years ago... when people had to make their own stations and HAD to be technically-inclined to get on the air.  We don't live in that era anymore.  The Amateurs Code was probably written based on the assumption that hams had a core set of knowledge already.  There's simply no excuse for hams who refuse to read up on their radios, whether they're judged by 83 year old standards or today's standards.

In my experience, an "Appliance Operator" is one who doesn't RTFM ("Read the F...riendly Manual") because they are too lazy.  Instead of spending an hour or two with the manual they simply get online and post questions, expecting the answers from others.  And yes, there IS a problem with that.  And the internet is chock-full of mis-information, which further contributes to their Appliance Operator tendacies.

Many hams in my local area have no clue how to program their radio, nor do they even understand the difference between PL-Encode and CTCSS.  It makes for a poor operator and it's rather embarassing when these hams show up to public service events and/or ARES-activations and don't have the basic skills necessary to communicate.  If you're too lazy to spend a little time with the manual do us all a favor and just settle for an i-Phone.

"One more thing, USB Signal link should create a virtual com port. Remember number and tell MultiPSK to use it for PTT control of rig."

I have a SignalinkUSB and am not aware of that feature (my understanding was that the unit is VOX-based PTT).  When you plug the SignalinkUSB into your computer it auto-installs as a secondary soundcard.  I was not aware of a virtual com port also being installed.  Are you sure this is the case? (It'd be cool if it were, but I don't think it is)

73,
Dan / ab0re