Thanks all. Sorry about the slow reply. You know how life gets in the way sometimes. I think I will build this thing and see what it does.

Thanks again,
Charlie

I've been thinking about making up a 70cm tape measure yagi. Something similar to the 2mtr tape measure yagis used for RDF work. (http://theleggios.net/wb2hol/projects/rdf/tape_bm.htm) Except I'm thinking a 7 element version that could be used listen to the downlink from AO-51 or other FM satellites.

So far I haven't found any examples of one after searching the web. I also haven't tried modeling anything yet, but I'm considering trying to duplicate the 70cm half of the arrow dual-band yagi that seems so popular.

I already have a 2mtr tape measure yagi and it works amazingly well for hitting distant repeaters. I just thought a 70cm version would make a nice companion to try to start working satellites with.

Any thoughts, suggestions, or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
73 de AE7GL
Charlie

Almost forgot. Yes, I have the maps loaded. Very interesting to watch sometimes. The other day I watched a train come out of southwestern New Mexico and go thru Tucson and then almost up to Phoenix.

Thanks again,

OK, that's makes sense. I never thought about that being the TNC type. Is there a way to determine what the actual TNC is from that information? Just out of curiosity?

I did know the "*" indicated the path of WIDE2-2 or whatever was used up. Thanks.

I appreciate the quick response.

Thanks,
Charlie

Gentlemen,

I'm slowly getting into APRS and learning as I go. I've searched this forum and the web and I'm mystified by something in the APRS packets. Specifically in what Xastir calls the Data Path. Actually it's the UNPROTO information if I understand this correctly.

I currently have an older 2 meter radio hooked up to my computer via Soundmodem and Xastir to monitor the APRS activity in my area.

All packets received by the Xastir program, either through the radio or by way of the internet, include information in the Data Path that I can't figure out. Here is an example of a few lines from my log file...

# 1233009625  Mon Jan 26 15:40:25 MST 2009
WA6LSE-4>APN382,MINGUS*,WIDE2*:!!0058007601E9003627C40286--------001B039E00000050
# 1233009628  Mon Jan 26 15:40:28 MST 2009
KD7YAT-3>APN382,W7MOT-3*,WIDE2-1:!3321.12N/11225.81W_ESTRELLA WX, GOODYEAR
# 1233009633  Mon Jan 26 15:40:33 MST 2009
LEMMON>WX,KB0BWG-1*,WIDE2:$ULTW0278007F013A08A42765FFF81B32000203E4001900E6000001E6
# 1233009634  Mon Jan 26 15:40:34 MST 2009
LEMMON>APN390,KB0BWG-1*,WIDE2:=3226.51N/11046.81W_KB7RFI Mt. Lemmon  9000 ft.

Looking at the second line I understand the "WA6LSE-4" is the sending station. And I understand that "MINGUS*,WIDE2*" are digipeaters it has gone thru. But, what is the "APN382"? Is that another digipeater?

Here's another one. This is part of the information I see when I look at a station's info from within the Xastir program itself...

Packets received: 91    Last Heard:01/26/2009 16:04:44
Heard via the TNC on device 1, last via TNC on device 1, and has moved
Data path: SSSYSP,WIDE2-2
Status  01/26 16:04 : TT3 Haz Primary
Comment 01/26 16:04 : Mic-E Off Duty

Here again, on the Data Path line, I understand WIDE2-2 is a alias for a digipeater. But, what is the SSSYSP?

If these are just other digipeaters why are they not identified by there actual callsign? Or by a common alias such as RELAY or WIDE?

Any enlightenment would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Thanks guys. I have an email in to them but haven't heard from their service department yet. If I don't hear soon I'm going to just replace that cap and see what happens.

Thanks again.

I have a Diamond SX40C swr meter that's stopped working. On inspection I find one capacitor that's cracked where the lead comes out. It's a small ceramic cap. The only markings on it is the number "102" with a line under it. I can't find a schematic online for this meter. According to a couple capacitor identification web pages it may be a 1,000pf cap. Does this sound right? Does anyone know were I can download a schematic? I'd sure like to get it working again.

Thanks,
Charlie.

N0MUD,

You are absolutely right that CB uses more than just AM. I stand corrected.

However, in my defense, I also said "CB has 40 specific channels(120 if you count SSB)"

And yes, I took it in jest. HIHI. If I make a mistake or mis-statement here I would prefer someone correct me rather than having somebody else learn something that's wrong. So thanks.

73
Charlie

This is a follow up to my previous post titled "cleaning old key" where I was asking how best to clean up and old Bunnell straight key I had.

Well Sam, I tried what you suggested.

> The best thing you can use on these keys is
> MURATIC ACID... Here is what you do :
> Purchase the MURATIC ACID . DO NOT mix water
> with like the bottle says . It Will weaken
> it and take you 5x's longer to clean it . Pure
> the acid in a plastic bowl (no the acid will
> not eat threw the plastic) big enough to
> submerge the key . Strip the key of the
> bakelite knobs and backbone . The backbone is
> nickel sometimes chrome plated steel . The
> acid will strip the plating and you will have
> to get it replated for about 10 bucks . Take
> the remaining key apart and put all this in
> the bowl (be careful this acid will burn the
> h*ll out of ya, something like rubber gloves
> or something to hold the parts other than your
> hand ) for about 15-30 min till clean. Once you
> submerge the key it will bubble and fizz and
> fumes will rise so do this outside . The acid
> will not eat through the key, only strip away
> the dirt and tarnish, laquer and give it it's
> true beauty . Once the bubbles stop and the key
> looks clean . Put it in another bowl filled with
> vinigar for a 1-2 min...


It didn't turn out quite like I'd hoped. In fact it turned out REAL BAD!

Here was my plan. Immerse the pieces in the undiluted Muriatic acid for a few minutes. Then soak them for a while in a baking soda solution to neutralize the acid. Then rinse them good in clear water.

I first tried an old empty 9mm case I'd picked up off the desert just to see what it would do. After 5 minutes it was noticably cleaner. So far so good.

Then I tried the two screws the lever pivots on. (Turns out they were chrome plated.) After just 5 minutes they'd cleanup real nice too.

So I was ready to do the base next. It started bubbling quite a bit like KG4HEB said it would. (Made sense since it was the nastiest piece.) After about three or four minutes it was bubbling A LOT! By the five minute mark the container was starting to get hot and the acid had turned blackish in color. So I pulled the base out to check it. You can see the results at:

http://members.cox.net/spam_stinks/pictures.htm

Needless to say the base is a total loss. My understanding was that this base was brass. Thats certainly what it looked like to me. Now I don't know. So if anyone needs to clean and old key my suggestion is DO NOT USE MURIATIC ACID. I'm not sure what I'll use to clean my other key. If I find something that works I'll let you guys know. At least I didn't have much invested in this key.

Charlie
KD7ZKF

Muratic acid? OK, I 'll pick up some and give it a try.

Thanks,
Charlie

Actually I have some of that I use to shine the aluminum wheels on my motorcycle. I wonder if that might be too abrasive though.

I hope this is the right place for this question.

I'm trying to clean up an old Bunnell key so I can use it. It has some type of greyish coating on it. What I first thought was corrosion. I have tried using lemon juice as well as a pastes made from lemon juice and baking soda and from lemon juice and salt. I also tried using ketchup. (Please don't laugh. These were all recommended for cleaning brass pans and such and I only used them on a little area on the bottom of the base.) None had any effect other than to polish whatever this coating is. I'm starting to wonder if this is some type of paint. I have no idea at this point, although I checked it with a VOM and it is conductive. I'm hoping someone can tell me what this is and how to clean this off.

I've posted some pictures at:

http://members.cox.net/spam_stinks/pictures.htm



Thanks,
Charlie
KD7ZKF

Thanks guys. I know what I have won't work now. I'll need to get the right pieces. But I'm not sure now about whether I need a 4:1(or 1:4) or 1:1. I thought dipoles were typically around 200 ohms at the feedpoint. A 1:1 wouldn't be right for that would it? I'm feeding it with coax from the radio because I don't have a tuner yet. I plan to trim the dipole to resonance on 40 meters.

Thanks,

OK. That's what I needed to know. I'm not concerned about it being big enough to run a lot of power, but I do want it to be right for what I do run.

Thanks

> You can buy or build your own.

I understand. What I'm asking is "will what I have work to build one"?

Thanks