Then how do you put your patches on your Scout uniform? (That was how I learned to sew.)
Actually I have a very simple antenna that I use for demos - it is just three pieces of solid copper wire
stuck through holes in a piece of wood, but it works as well as any other 3-element yagi I have. I just
bend the wires back against the wood for transport and straighten them to use it. Aluminum wire would
be lighter, but wouldn't survive as many bending cycles.
Let me see... for #14 solid copper wire with NO insulation, the lengths are:
38.5" driven element
Spacing is 12" between elements.
I used flat lathe for the boom and drilled two holes for each element: the wire went through one
hole, across the back side of the boom and back through the other hole, then straight out to the
sides to make the element. You can also drill a single hole though wood or plastic pipe for the
boom and glue the elements in place. For the driven element I drilled 4 holes in a square so each
side of the element went through two holes on the same side of the boom, then soldered the ends
to a coax connector (or solder the coax directly to the ends of the elements). Cut the wires plenty
long to start, wire up the feedpoint, then cut each side of the element to half the overall length from
the center of the boom.
You can use a beta ("hairpin") match as described for the WB2HOL tape measure yagi, otherwise the
SWR will be around 2 : 1 across the band, which should be fine for your HT.
Oh, and if you do decide to use tape measure, don't bother with the hose clamps the way WB2HOL
uses them. They just add weight and expense. I just wrap the elements to the PVC pipe with
fiberglass strapping tape - it holds them just fine. For the driven element I also put at least one
screw through the element and into the PVC because the element halves are not as secure.
(Don't try to drill though the tape measure - punch the hole with a small nail instead.)
If I want to add a one or more diretors would I use the 36.2" right?