Jay, take a look at my Toyota Tacoma HF antenna install on my QRZ page, about half way down the biography.  This is a prototype design that I made to experiment with this mounting configuration.  My current design resembles a tonneau cover, but denies access to the bed except from behind with the tailgate down.  I plan to use an actual tonneau cover in my next pickup that raises up to gain easier access to the bed.

I am getting excellent performance with Hamstick type antennas on 10 through 20 meters.  One day while traveling down the highway in an extended QSO with a DX station, my wife asked me why I need those big antennas for my internet remote base, when I can do the same thing with the relatively small Hamstick antenna on the back of my pickup.  That was a hard question to answer

Terry, NZ5E

Take a look at Safeguard 13062 by Sanchem, Inc.  It is a rust inhibitor for steel, iron, and zinc that turns blue-black in color when it reacts with steel.  The metal can also be painted, after applying Safeguard 13062.

I purchased a gallon of Safeguard 13062 to prevent rust between the sheet metal and frame of my counterpoise, http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag21/toposolutions/Amateur%20Radio/ZoomedInCollage_zps3d884d35.jpg.  I first had the entire assembled structure powder coated.  I then removed the sheet metal from the frame to expose the bare metal areas where the sheet metal mounts to the frame.  I wire brushed the bare metal areas and used a paint brush to apply Safeguard 13062 to both the bare metal areas of the frame and the sheet metal.  I used all stainless steel bolts, lock nuts, and star washers to bolt the completed structure back together.  The stainless steel star washers at the top of the bolts and behind the lock nuts bite through the thin protective coating of Safeguard 13062 to ensure good electrical contact between the surfaces.  It only took about a pint of Safeguard 13062 to complete my project.

Terry, NZ5E

I am using an electric linear actuator to lay an HF mobile antenna down and stand it up.  I located the switch to operate my fold-over mount in the cab of the pickup.  I can stand the antenna up or lay it down, even while going down the highway, in about 6 seconds.  Other pictures and description about half way down the biography of my QRZ page.

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag21/toposolutions/Amateur%20Radio/ZoomedInCollage_zps3d884d35.jpg

With a small lift and bigger tires on my pickup, the feedpoint of the antenna is about 4'3" above the ground.  This fold-over mount allows me to use a mobile HF antenna that is 8' or so and still be able to fit under the carport.

I think you will find that length of a mobile antenna is going to make as much difference as the type of antenna, as will the mounting configuration to take advantage of what little groundplane a vehicle has available.  I am going to access my internet remote base from within my pickup to use in testing several antennas.  As time permits, I will try to post my "real world" results.  I don't expect to see any significant difference in any of the antennas, assuming the same physical length, on 10 through 17 meters.

Terry, NZ5E

The highest frequency band that has propagation, mainly because it is easier to have an efficient mobile antenna on the shorter wavelength bands.

I am in the process of installing an HF mobile setup in my pickup and I plan to operate 10 meters during the day when it is open, 17 meters during the day when 10 meters in not open, and 40 meters during the early morning and later afternoon hours when 17 meters is not open.

Terry, NZ5E

I first assumed that I wanted an all-in-one radio and read all of the reviews on the 857 and 7000 and started following the information being released on the 7100.  Some of the negative reviews concerned me and I knew that the TS-480 was a good radio, since I have been running a TS-480SAT for 2.5 years now in an internet remote role from my home and other locations where I have good internet access.  I also already have a Kenwood TM-V71A in my pickup and, when I stopped to think about it, I wanted to be able to monitor my EchoLink node and other VHF/UHF frequencies while making contacts on HF.  Therefore, I purchased a TS-480HX for the 200 watt output on HF for my pickup.

For HF mobile in my pickup, I am going to purchase one of the motorized type antennas for 10-80 meters.  I built a T-bracket to be installed near the middle of the bed and at the level of the top of the bed rails.  I mounted an electric linear actuator to be able to stand the antenna up vertical and lay it down to a near horizontal position from within the cab of my pickup in about 6 seconds.  That way I can go through the bank drive through and determine when I don't mind my pickup looking "hamsexy".

Terry, NZ5E

I ordered a Diamond NR72BNMO to try and I will report on the performance compared to the Larsen NMO-2/70B, when it comes in next week.

I will always have the Larsen NMO-2/70B with me, for when I am in fringe areas and the higher gain NMO-2/70B should yield extra range.

Terry, NZ5E

I have a Larsen NMO-2/70B and an NMO-2/70 SH.  I can screw either antenna on an NMO hole mount in the top center of the cab of my Toyota Tacoma pickup.  I use the shorter NMO-2/70 SH on my pickup for collecting survey data and for hunting, to keep from hitting overhanging limbs and when I need more clearance.  The shorter SH model works comparably on 2 meters, but performs very poorly on 70 cm.
 
Is there another VHF/UHF antenna with an overall length of around 20 inches that has performance comparable to a quarter wave on both bands?

Thanks in advance,

Terry, NZ5E

I use the FTM-10R with the BU-2 Bluetooth module in my small plane to interface with my Lightspeed Zulu headsets that have integrated Bluetooth.  This setup saved me a lot of trouble and expense, by not requiring me to connect through the audio panel in the plane.  It works well.  I have the radio configured to allow me to press the Bluetooth button on the headset control to key the microphone.  The microphone stays keyed until I press the Bluetooth button again.

I don't particularly like the programming and general cryptic operation of the FTM-10R.  I have never operated the FTM-350AR.  If you go with one of these radios, make sure you get the newer BU-2 Bluetooth module.  Users were having trouble connecting to Bluetooth devices, other than the Yaesu accessory items, with the original Bluetooth module.  You can install the Bluetooth module in either the head or the body of the radio in the FTM-10R.

I use several Bluetooth devices, including Bluetooth printers, mice, and GPS receivers.  Bluetooth is an obvious technology to use for doing away with microphone cords, etc.

Terry, NZ5E

I will call Diamond on Monday.  I was hoping to find other amateurs/pilots that have a Cirrus, Diamond, or other composite airplane that have already tried inside antennas.

I bought a 2009 Diamond DA40XLS aircraft that is going through annual inspection now as part of the purchase agreement.  I sent a Comant CI-292-3 bent whip 2 meter aircraft antenna to the shop that is doing the annual for possible mounting on or in the DA40.  Does anyone know if the composite material that makes up the skin of the tail is conductive?  Is there any type of conductive material sandwiched within or just inside the composite material that would block radiation?  I do know that there are some carbon fiber structural members that make up the airframe.  The mechanic thinks that he can mount the antenna upside down (similar to the intended belly mount configuration of the antenna) on the bottom of the baggage compartment, between the floor of the baggage compartment and the bottom of the plane.  He would be mounting some type of conductive material to the bottom of the baggage compartment floor to provide a groundplane for the antenna.  I am hoping that I can use the tail of the DA40 as a flying radome 

I had an avionics shop connect an IC-706 in my Archer through the audio panel as Comm 3.  I did the same thing with a Motorola M1225 business band radio in my Maule.  Both installs required an audio transformer to match into the 600 ohm input impedance of the audio panels.  It was very nice being able to key the mic on the yoke and listen/talk through the aviation headsets.  The aviation headsets have really good noise cancelling microphones.  People would sometimes not believe I was in an aircraft because they could not hear any background noise.  I have the Lightspeed Zulu headsets with active noise cancellation in the Mooney which really makes for a quiet ride.

My wife and I flew the Mooney to Ashland, Kentucky and back yesterday.  I tried a quarter wavelength of wire in one of the side windows with the shield of the coax grounded to one of the screws that hold the interior in place.  It worked some better than the rubber ducky on my handheld, but not by much.  Nothing beats an outside antenna with a clear view in a metal aircraft.

The plane has dual GPS/Nav/Comms, both with standby frequencies, so I would only be using the antenna for one of them and would therefore always have the other aircraft radio available.  I usually fly by instrument flight rules (IFR) on cross country trips and would have someone (usually my son) monitoring the aircraft radio for frequency changes, etc.


That is the reason I purchased the Comant CI-292-3.  I have operated with a 2 meter antenna installed on the top of the cockpit in an Archer and a TSO'd business band VHF antenna installed on the top of the wing on a Maule.  I was really wanting to try a belly mount antenna on the Mooney.

Another detail is that I have the Mooney for sale to trade for a helicopter.  I have several trips planned that I will continue to make in the Mooney until it sells.  I think it is worth going to the trouble of connecting into one of the aircraft antennas, even with some loss, without making any permanent modifications to the plane.  The blade type aircraft antennas that I have now are known to be broadbanded.  I am thinking that the match will not actually be that bad.  I am hoping that someone has tried this.

I purchased a Comant CI-292-3 bent whip antenna, to be installed during the annual inspection on the belly of my Mooney Bravo. Ended up not installing it, mainly because of ground clearance issues when in a landing pitch-up attitude.

Has anyone tried matching into an existing aircraft Comm antenna? I have seen mention of antenna switches for the purpose of connecting a handheld radio to an outside antenna that should work for switching the aircraft Comm antenna from the GPS/Nav/Comm to a 2 meter transceiver.

My Mooney has the blade type Comm antennas for 118-137 MHz.

Pasted from my QRZ page:

I have a Microbit 1216H Webswitch that I use to remotely control power to the HC-1.5KAT and also to trigger a Deltrol DPDT 240 volt relay to control power to the HL-1.5Kfx over the internet. I utilize a Vivotek IP7133 camera to monitor the front panels of the amplifier and antenna tuner over the internet.

The radios are integrated and made by Topcon with a power output of 1 watt.  The base and rover use the same rubber ducky type whip antennas.  The 1.5 statute mile range of my units is actually limited by software.  If I pay Topcon $1,200, they will provide me with the unlock codes (can you say, "rip off") to extend the range to about 3 statute miles.  The base is sending correction data to the rover at 9600 baud.

I don't notice the effect of the interference until I get out to about 1/2 statute mile, so the interference is relatively low level making it harder to detect.  At distances of around 1 statute mile, extending the legs on the tripod to increase the height of the base above ground doesn't help much.

I have thought about trading for new units anyway and will probably trade for units with 1 watt UHF radio links.  I couldn't complete a job the other day because the 915 MHz radios would not provide a link through a block of woods.  I am hoping that the UHF radio links will solve several of my problems.  I already have a UHF frequency licensed for this type use.

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise!