Sorry that you programmed 50 channels of freq into your scanner and now need to delete some of them.  I generally check various websites (search on repeater freq).  You will find some freq in use and other dead.  Do not expect the repeaters to be full of activity, as they go in spells.

One way I find freq in use is to use the search function, this can take some time to identify what freq are in use and by whom.  Other method I have used is to check for local events and try using the search function of the scanner to see if you can pick up the freq being used.

Hang in there, you will learn and find freq that you will want to keep programmed into the radio.

David

I'm sure many of us will fall into this camp, no damage to the radio equipment, but had a close strike some month ago, and it took out the controller four in ground electric fence.  the in ground fence loop consit of around 800 ft of wire in the ground.  the wave front thru the ground develop high voltage back into the controller taking it out.  $200 dollars later new controller) and two external .125 amp fuse, no damage to the controller, but have replace fuses after several storms.  So yes, close strikes can and will do damage, so grounding should be one of your line of defence to keep the energy out of your equipment.

David

If it was my setup, I would ground the tower to the ground rod closest to where the coax enters the shack, as that will be your most common point for all of the grounds and maybe your electrical box.  You say that all of the rods are connected with #6 wire, that's well and good, you can still set your self up with loop circuits that could cause problems connecting to different rods (been there done that with mfg building gorund setups and high power equipments).  In my setup, my equipment is grounded to one ground rod just outside of the access panel that allows the cables to pass thru the wall to the shack.  Off that ground rod, are severall others that move outwards like a spoke of a wheel.  My next step is to connect the outer legs of the spokes together.

David

You may not find a simple 2 meter radio that does not required some programming.  I have the Icom V8 and for simple simplex operation, it is great.  If you plan to work a repeater, you will need to program in the off sets and tones for the repeater.  Icom also has on their website a one sheet programming instructions for the V8 which eliminates having to carry the manual.

David S

I know the Standard C528A is an old radio and may no longer be in use by people, but after picking up a so called "dead" radio at a hamfest last month on the hunch that the internal battery and caps maybe the issue, I acquired it (like a cat it followed me home).  After reviewing several on-line sites where the issue of a dead C528A radios where discussed, I open the radio up and replace the internal battery with a 2032 cell, after which I found the radio did power up a few times but was stuck in tx mode.  Using the schematic and on-line resources (of which non gave part numbers on component values, which is fine), I ordered up the following capacitors from Mouser and would like to share the information with everyone:

33uf, 6.3V, Nichicon P/N: F970J336KAA, Mouser P/N: 647-F970J336KAA
2.2uf, 25V, Nichicon P/N: F951E225MRAAQ2, Mouser P/N: 647-F951E225MRAAQ2
4.7uf, 25V, Nichicon P/N: F951E475MRAAQ2, Mouser P/N: 647-F951E475MRAAQ2
220uf, 6.3V, Panasonic P/N: ECE-AOJKAQ221, Mouser P/N: 667-ECE-AOJKAQ221

The first three from Nichicon are SMT, whereas the Panasonic is a thru-hold part.  When you open up the radio you will find that the 33uf, 2.2uf and 4.7 uf are all SMT devices and can be a problem desoldering form the board.  I ended up cutting the top of the Alum can off so that the capacitor leads where left on the solder pads, which were then quickly removed.  Before installing the new capacitors, the board was clean/washed down with flux remover and alcohol.

This radio is now becoming my main HT because of it dual receive and cross-band capabilities.

Hate to make your job harder, but you may need to pull out a tube reference book and compare the internal workings, if you can see them to what is in the book.  Sounds like you are down to a couple of tubes and based on the tube number from the schematic, you should be able to identify the missing numbers.   Use the missing numbers to see what the tube book diagrams show.  I have had to do a few tubes that way, more work, but can be done.

David

Well, not sure what I did, I re-entered the repeater freq and PL tone, re-save the settings, now only the "+" or "-" shows as it should if the off set is positive or negative.  Both times, I had the manual open in front of me following the instructions as I am still learning this radio.

David

Picked up a Standard C528A Twin bander HT last month at a hamfest that was "dead on arrival".  Replaced the alum caps and it is now working very well.  A very nice radio.  My question is when programming for repeater use, sometimes I see both the "+" and "-" show up at the same time on the display.  I have tried reprogramming the repeater settings and still have both show up.  Other repeater frequency settings that I have programmed in are OK and have either "+" or "-" depending on the offset.

I know this is an old radio, 1992 time frame, but maybe someone out there still uses theirs and can help explain why on some repeater frequencies I get both to display.

David S

Kevin, I have rebuilt several Standard and Icom packs that do not have screws.  I have either used a small sharp knife (be very careful here) inserted into the seam between the two halves of the case (generally the seam is easy to see).  The other method uses a very thin wood trim or metal saw to cut thru the seam.  To reseal, I generally use expoy glue to put the two sides back together, using tape to hold them till the glue sets.  All of my packs so far use AA batteries, and i have seen other sizes at hamfest or thru on-line stores.

Sorry to see other saying do not attempt it, as the fun is in knowing that you can take something apart, rebuild it and but it back into service.

David

Generally when I operator from my home qth, I state that I am operating from a remote location such as the in-laws, or brother's qth.

David

KC9PNN, do you plan to rotate your beam?  If so, LM400 may be ok up to the point just below the rotor and change over to RG213 or RG8X for flexibility as the beam is rotated.  LM400 is stiff and does not bend very well.

David

just like W2BCD I generally operate my HT from the basement for 2 meter FM which is the location of my shack.  I have a 50ft tower with a Cushcraft 5/8 wave 2 meter antenna on top fed with RG8.  Total length of coax is around 75 ft down the tower over to my pass thru panel and then into the basement.  Before the 5/8 wave went up, I used a home build J-pole encased in PVC tubing feed with LM400.  The LM400 was swapped out because of the installation of a rotor and I need something that would flex, which the LM400 does not do very well.

David

one has to remember that the price of any equipment is based on what the seller is willing to let it go for and what the buyer is will to fork over.  We all have seen sell who put up items for sale only to learn they really do not want to let the item go, and buyers who are willing to pay the high price, when for a few cent more can ge a new item.  Just look at ebay and you will see where the price maybe low, but the shipping is thru the roof.  there are deals to be had, but you have to knwo what you are doing, if not get someone you trust to help you.

swduncan57 look for a place that repairs (if they are still around) tape decks and record player.  You will need to either take the tuner with you or make some measurements to determine the length.  Some years back and may still have it, I had a catalog for drive belts to record palyers and tape desks.

David S

What model number?