Thanks for the feedback.  It is very much appreciated!  

I have noticed that it takes me two or three times to seem to find the maximum output of the amplifier.  I made a spreadsheet at various frequencies for what the plate and load settings are and what the maximum exciter power was. I also read on W8JI's website that once the amp is tuned for max output to increase the load setting slightly for a cleaner signal (I'm not sure why, but I'll roll with it).  I will experiment with the load setting after I'm tuned and see how it impacts Ig.  I'm looking forward to getting on the air this weekend and getting some audio reports- hopefully I sound more like Bob Dylan than Peewee  

A couple of other questions I've thought of-

1- Is it safe to assume that if I tune my amplifier into my dummy load with a low SWR and if the antenna is tuned for low SWR with my antenna tuner, that I shouldn't have to re-tune over the airwaves with max output of the amplifier?

2- How far can I, or should I, move up and down the band without re-tuning the amplifier?

Thanks!

Wane - KB7FSC

I am new to the amplifier world.  I have spent a lot of time, however, reading these forums and W8JI's website.  I am now the proud owner of a used AL-811 amplifier.  I have owned it for about a week, and I have been playing around with tuning it into my dummy load.  I am planning on getting on the air with it this weekend, and I wanted to make sure that I am running as clean of a signal as possible and I don't want to create any splatter or damage my new amplifier.

I admit that I don't fully comprehend all there is to know about this new piece of equipment, but from my reading, this is what I believe to be true.  Please add or correct.

1 - Tune the amp into a dummy load at maximum possible exciter power while staying under maximum plate and grid current values.  Adjust Plate 1st for max output, adjust load 2nd for max output, and 3rd retouch the plate.

2 - Reduce only the exciter power to reduce output from the amplifier.  Do not retune the plate or load with the exciter at a reduced power level.

3 - I know to quit adding exciter power when tuning up when the plate or grid current exceed max specs, or if adding more exciter power does not increase the output of the amplifier.

4 - Tune at maximum values, but when in operation, take it easy and don't run the amp at the edge of its maximum ratings.

What else am I missing that will prevent a lesson from the school of hard knocks??

I just want to make sure that when I get on the air this weekend, I'm doing the best job possible.

Thanks,

Wane - KB7FSC

I notice that there are several companies that make GPS units for IPODs that either connect directly or via blue-tooth.  That made me wonder if anyone is using or has found a GPS unit that puts out a NEMA signal that could be interfaced with both the IPOD and also the radio?  If so, why couldn't an app be written that would allow APRS data to be displayed on the IPOD map of others positions, and also allow for sending messages via the IPOD keyboard?  I wasn't uncovering much using Google or the search on this site.  Just curious...

Thanks,

Wane - KB7FSC

Hi Tom,

I read your post and it was a bit of an epiphany to me.  Thank you.  I need to reconsider my mobile installation methods.

Is it safe to assume that most of the modern built (past 10 years) mobile ham equipment is using a grounded negative rail?

Also, are you connecting your ground lead for your mobile installations to the engine block, fender, or somewhere else?

73,

Wane - KB7FSC

Hi Martin,

We have a smaller local club, and we have used Skype to allow our members to join the meeting.  I found it to work very well, and it allowed work schedules to not interfere with still being able to attend the meeting.  I have used my laptop to facilitate fellow members calling in, and I have also used Skype to call into the meeting when I wasn't able to attend the meeting.  The audio was sufficient for all the members to hear each other.  There has been no disdain from the members, and I think its a fine piece of technology that allows us to stay in touch and communicate.  Nothing wrong with that!

Good luck.

Wane - KB7FSC

My CW experience is pretty much limited to using a TS-480SAT, so I can't really compare it against any other rigs.  I've had my radio for almost two years, and I've been using it for CW for almost one year.  I used it without any additional filters for about 4 months.  I could set down the RF gain, and pull signals through fairly well without agc pumping in moderately crowded band conditions.  When there was a contest going, the strong signals could swamp out some of the lighter signals, even using the dsp filtering.  I installed a 270 hz crystal filter last Xmas, and that made a huge difference.  During contests or crowded band conditions, I can click on the filter and the strong stations nearby disappear.  So, for my limited experience comparing to other rigs, I would say that the 480 without filters is OK, but with the filter it is excellent.  Also, I like the keyer built into the rig.  I find the QSK works fine on the radio, although I only send at about 15 wpm.  Overall, I am impressed with the radio, and use it for my base radio.  I like the fact that I can set the control head in front of my monitor, and it doesn't clutter up my desk space.  It is also very easy to interface with a computer and with Ham Radio Deluxe.  IMHO, the $130 for the extra filter was money well spent, and it really improved its operation for cw and digital modes.  I'm sure there are better rigs out there, but for the cost, I am very pleased with the radio and I feel like I've already gotten my money's worth in a short period of time.

73,
Wane - KB7FSC

Hi Mike,

Congratulations on your new license!  With your next upgrade to General, you will be able to really start getting your money's worth out of your fine station.

I went with a smaller, older power supply when I set up my station a couple years ago, trying to work on "the cheap".  My solution worked, but it became apparent to me that I really needed a decent power source, and I haven't regretted my Astron power supply.  It was a good lesson learned for me.

Enjoy the hobby, and hopefully I'll meet you on the air one of these days!

73,

Wane - KB7FSC

Hi Mike,

What are you currently using for a power supply in your shack?  Are you just beginning to build up your shack?

I am using an Astron RS-35M to power multiple radios in my shack (including a FT 2900R).  Thats the good part about having only one mouth and two ears.  I figure I can only talk on one radio at a time anyway, so one power supply, many radios. 


Wane
KB7FSC

Hi Dave,

You ask a good question, and I never did connect the 1900 and 2900 to an antenna switch and go back and forth between the two to see if there was any noticeable advantage for either one of the radios.  My observations fall more into the anecdotal category, but let me share anyway.  I've observed that I can hear conversations (not necessarily full quieting) that are outside my tx range.  For example, my 2900, set up in a base station, can consistently hear a distant repeater with 4 or 5 bars on the bottom, but I can't always get into the repeater with the full 75 watts.  Some days I get there full quieting, other days I'm told my signals are to faint to hold a QSO.  I've also observed that the 1900 can outhear its tx range.  IMHO, I don't think the receive specs between the two radios really amounts to much real world difference, and both radios hear quit well. 

The best part about your situation is I don't think you can make a wrong decision with either radio.  I think you'll be happy with either one, and you'll be well pleased with the upgrade from your ht.  Sometimes its nice to be in a win-win situation  .

Anyway, enjoy the researching, and remember that the journey is usually better then the destination!

73,

Wane - KB7FSC

Hi Dave,

I have both a FT 1900 and FT 2900 that I use.  I consider them both to be nice radios, and to tell you the truth, I am happy with both rigs.  I want to point out that the 1900 does NOT have a fan.  IMHO, it would be nice if Yaesu would have put a small fan on the back of both rigs like they do on the 7900 or 8800.  My experience is that both rigs do have a tendency to get hot if you have an extended QSO.  I'm not sure that this is something to lose a lot of sleep over.  It has been documented by many users that this is the fact, and if you keep the SWR low, it will help.  I've noticed that the heat sinks keep the temperature in control for a while, but after you get the heatsinks warmed up, the radio temp climbs rapidly.  With that said, I've yet to have the radio shut down in the middle of a QSO because it was overheating.  It should come as no surprise that the 2900 takes longer to heat up then the 1900.  There is a setting in the menu of both radios that will let you monitor the temperature of the radio if you want.  If you are planning on operating either rig at max power for extended periods of time, I would recommend rigging up a small 12V fan. 

I bought the 2900 first, and it is a beefy rig.  It is noticeably larger and heavier then the 1900.  I like the fact that the display is larger on the radio.  I bought the 1900 next because I needed a smaller rig for a mobile install.  Aside from the size difference, I would spend the extra $20 and go with the 2900 if I had to pick one rig.  I just personally like the "heavy duty" look of the 2900, and think that it will stand up a bit better then the 1900.  My only advice is make sure that you have room for the 2900 for a mobile installation.  As far a receive sensitivity between the two radios, I can't tell a difference.  Both radios operate the same as the menu's and functions are essentially identical between the two radios (aside from the xmit power).  I also like how you can manage the memories in different banks, and link the banks together on both radios.  As a general comment, I think you are on the right track to get a mobile and step away from the VX-5R for mobile and base applications.  I think you will be very happy with either rigs performance over the ht.  I did the ht mobile thing for about 3 months before buying a mobile radio and was quite pleased with the upgraded performance.

73, and enjoy!

Wane - KB7FSC

Hi Dave,

Sounds like you are having fun with your new wheels!

Good catch on tracing the tx interference to your mic extension cables, and thanks for your update.

I just wanted to comment and clarify on a few things.  You are correct in the fact that the entire electrical system in the car does not "go to sleep" when you shut off the power button on the dash.  There are several electronic control modules (ecm) that will stay energized for a period of time.  However, when you shut off the power button on the dash, it does shut down the high voltage system in the car, and it isolates the high voltage battery from the inverter/converter assembly by de-energizing the system main relays (high voltage contactors).  I thought maybe you were getting some interference from this system, and by turning off the power button, this system would be eliminated.  If you haven't experienced noises coming from the car when it is shut off, you will somewhere along the line.  I've been in the garage hours after the car has been powered down, and heard it make sounds.  While the conspiracy theorists among us would like you to believe the car is haunted, it is normal operation.  Also, you'll notice when you open the drivers door and go to get in, you'll hear an electric motor precharging the hydraulics in the braking system.  I agree with you in that this isn't the 66 mustang anymore!  Despite this, there really isn't anything going on in the 12V portion of the Prius that isn't in most cars today.  What I mean by that is that I'm still not convinced that the tx noise is being caused by the electrical system of the Prius.  I know you've already moved the radio, but out of curiosity, did you try a different antenna, maybe a mag mount in middle of the roof and see if the tx noise went away?  You could plug in your mic extension cable and retry.  I'm just wondering if perhaps something with the mounting location, or perhaps an inadequate ground plane from the antenna mount is causing the grief?  This experiment could help eliminate that.

As for the back up beeper...  That was a pain in the butt!  I'm not sure why they design the alarm to work that way.  It reminds me of the back up alarms on our farm trucks, except its beeping inside the car instead of outside!  I have access to a scan tool, and I made quick work of that.  Now, it only beeps one time when I put our car in reverse.  I know from the prius chat forum, some dealers charge to remove this option, and others will do it for free...  A little sweet talk may go a long ways.

Also, on the ev, eco, power button:  While it looks like there are only three modes of operation, there are four.  When neither EV, eco or power is illuminated, the car is in "normal" mode.  What does this impact?  First, and most noticeably, it impacts the relationship to throttle opening on the engine to the movement of the accelerator pedal.  While the car won't make any more power in the "Power" mode, it is more responsive as you step into the accelerator pedal.  Second, it will impact how aggressive the car cools and heats the passenger cabin.  Eco will be the most sluggish to drive, and slowest to respond to climate changes via a/c or heat.

Hope this info helps, and keep up the good work.  Happy motoring!

Wane - KB7FSC

Hi Dave,

Good job on your installation.  Bummer on the tx noise.  It seems like its very seldom easy 

I suppose you've tried this, but does the noise go away if you are transmitting the radio without the car powered up (no READY light)?  This could help eliminate whether the noise is being introduced from the electrical system in the Prius.  If the noise is still there with the car powered off, then I would say it must have something to do with your radio or antenna system.  Inside the inverter assembly, there is a dc-dc converter that is responsible for running all the 12 volt accessories and charging the 12 volt aux battery.  The inverter becomes active anytime you see the READY light illuminated on the dash.  By the way, it isn't a very good idea to transmit for long periods of time unless the system is charging.  That little auxilary battery doesn't have much capacity, and it can cause issues if it is discharged.

BTW, I really enjoyed your QRZ page and your writeups.  It made my day!  Hope you are enjoying your new wheels, and that you are able to get this problem ironed out.

Wane - KB7FSC

Hi David,

I've owned my 2011 Prius for almost one year.  I installed a Yaesu FT-7900 this past summer, and after much pondering and consternation, I mounted the entire radio under the "floating bridge" console.  I took out the felt carpet in the tray, and cut a 3/4 inch piece of plywood that fit into the tray to raise the radio just a little bit, and then put the felt on top of the plywood.  I screwed the radio directly to the plywood, so I have a nice solid mount, with no holes being put into the car interior.  I ran the power wires and coax down the right side of the car by removing the plastic entry panels below the doors.  They pull up easy, and there is plenty of room in that channel to run the wires.  Currently, I'm using a 1/4 wave dual band magmount set about 10 inches in front of the rear am/fm antenna.  I've had no problems with any noise from the prius getting into my radio, nor any problems with the car when transmitting at full power.

I'm getting closer to manning up and punching a hole in the roof for a permanent nmo mount, but I just haven't quite got to that point yet.  I'm neither satisfied nor totally dissatisfied with mounting the radio under the "floating bridge".  I originally bought a gooseneck mount like K0ECW, but it didn't pass inspection from the XYL.  We didn't use the area under the bridge for much of anything, so I was able to put the radio down there before it became the home of something else.  I just made a promise to myself when I put the radio down there that I wouldn't make any major changes to the radio while I was driving because you have to pull your eyes off the road to see the radio panel, and found that the hyper memories are a very nice feature of the 7900 for having it set up in different configurations without having to delve into 12 different menus, etc...

Good luck, and enjoy your new wheels!  It doesn't take to long to get used to not going to the gas station, and I still smile everytime I fill the car up for $30 and know I can go another 400-500 miles.

Wane - KB7FSC

I had it hooked up to a Tram 5/8 over 5/8 wave MURS antenna originally.  I bought it from Pixxman on Ebay, and was satisfied with the results.  I ended up giving that antenna to my father-in-law to use with his radio, and then hooked up to a home made J-Pole for a few months.  I finally splurged and bought a Diamond F22A.  I am very impressed with this antenna.  It is a 7/8 over 7/8 wave antenna and it has a published gain of 6.7 dBi.  It is very well built and the main reason I bought it is that it has a wind rating of 112 MPH.  It has a very flat SWR on 2M, and comes pre-tuned.  I am a fan of this antenna, and I'm able to get into the repeaters in my area despite the fact that my QTH is somewhat shrouded by hills.  I am feeding it with 9913 coax.

Good luck in your purchasing process!

Wane - KB7FSC

Hi John,

I have the same exact radio and power supply setup for my home base station.  I really enjoy the setup, and it gets out very well.  I have no regrets with my setup, and the nice thing is that you'll have a power supply that you can grow into.

73,

Wane - KB7FSC