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Pages: [1]
1  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Class-C Tube Amplifier Circuits on: May 06, 2013, 07:33:50 PM
A tube that acts as a pure switch is most efficient because in neither state (on or off) does
it dissipate power:  when off there is no current flowing, and when on there is no voltage
drop across it.  It is those intermediate times when it is neither fully off nor fully on that cause
the efficiency to drop.

I like this description...thanks !

And that is why Class F (with parallel L/C traps tuned to 3f at the cathode and plate) gives the 90% efficiency it is famed for.
2  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Curing squegging / transmitter Parasitic oscillations? on: February 10, 2013, 04:15:34 PM
Is the 6cl6 operating straight through (80M in/80M out) ?

If yes, it may need to be
neutralized too with a few turns near L5 going to a few turns near L4 (you'll have to
experiment with the number of turns). The loops should be connected with one 180 degree twist in
the wires connecting them, or with one wire between them and the loops oriented in the opposite
sense, i.e., on the L4 loop ground the turn nearest L4 but on the L5 loop ground the turn farthest
from L5 and connect the loops with a single wire.

Also, it wouldn't hurt (I think) to put a parasitic suppressor on the 6cl6 plate.

Peter
3  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Correct methodology for biasing class AB1 modulator? on: January 14, 2013, 07:53:24 AM
why not put a variac on the power supply to correct the voltages, verify the article's design, and then experiment with higher voltages and a variable bias supply...don't forget that you shouldn't exceed the
maximum plate dissipation at rest.
4  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Help with my 6146B homebrew CW transmitter - Some progress today? on: December 19, 2012, 08:28:39 AM
if you have a 500 or 1000 pF feed-thru capacitor use it instead of grounding that 150 pF (or its
replacement) under the chassis and then running a wire through the chassis. The neutralizing
cap can be soldered directly to the top side of the feed-thru capacitor and, if properly placed,
the bottom side of the feed-thru can be soldered directly to C1 or S2 (whichever is closer).
5  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Help with my 6146B homebrew CW transmitter - Some progress today? on: December 18, 2012, 05:10:24 PM
Good job OM !

(To neutralize, I used the technique of removing
the plate and screen voltages to the 6146, ran the oscillator, and adjusted the neutralizing capacitor for null at the antenna output.)

if your PA is not neutralized then you should be getting lots of grid current variation as you turn the plate tune capacitor (with a dummy load on and no plate/screen volts). So another way to neutralize is to tune the neutralization capacitor so that the grid current stays constant as you turn the plate cap through its range.

6  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Help with my 6146B homebrew CW transmitter please :-) on: December 17, 2012, 07:51:47 AM
Blue neutralization wire (under the chassis) too long. Can you move the neutralization capacitor to
the other side of the 6146 ?
7  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Help with my 6146B homebrew CW transmitter please :-) on: December 13, 2012, 09:19:27 AM
thanks for the discussion.

Here's two versions of the original schematic in handbooks of the early '70s:

http://postimage.org/image/9gxmodkyf/

http://postimage.org/image/k2oumdxi9/

why did they drop the connection of the grid to cathode through the 150 pF shown in the
original post ?

Peter
8  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Help with my 6146B homebrew CW transmitter please :-) on: December 12, 2012, 02:13:00 PM
Don't do this!
The 150 pf capacitor isn't a "bypass". It's part of the bridge neutralizing circuit. Do not increase its value!
The cathode of the 6146 is grounded for RF by its bypasses.
73 de Jim, N2EY

interesting ! I saw the evolution of the posted circuit in the 1975 arrl hb (pg. 172) and there's a 1500 pF in place of the 150 pF and is going to ground instead of going to the cathode of the 6146 (as shown in the 3rd image posted above)...

Could you discuss a bit the relative merits of these two ways ?

73 de Peter
9  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Help with my 6146B homebrew CW transmitter please :-) on: December 10, 2012, 05:07:49 PM
'KEP,

if the metering checks out but the issues remain then try the following:

that 150 pF going from the grid tank to the junction of the 1000 pF bypass and the
6146 cathode pin 1...disconnect it from that junction and ground it. If no change then
try 500-1500 pF for that 150 pF and ground it.
The way it is now, it returns the grid bypass to the cathode instead of to the ground...it
looks funky to me...
10  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Hi-Fi home theatre receiver as an AM modulator on: September 26, 2012, 02:52:20 PM
you need a choke and cap to take the DC off the secondary...here's how it can be done with cheap toroid power xfmrs: http://amfone.net/Amforum/index.php/topic,13307.0/

Peter
11  eHam Forums / Antennas and Towers and more / RE: 4th state of matter on: January 05, 2012, 07:33:58 PM
Google is your friend.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plasma_antenna
12  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Glowbug QRP AM transmitter? on: December 27, 2011, 10:22:05 AM
look here http://www.amwindow.org/tech/htm/wb9eckseriesmod.htm
and here http://www.amwindow.org/tech/htm/pw.htm

Also, you may want to sign up at http://amfone.net/Amforum/index.php

Peter
13  eHam Forums / Amplifiers / RE: My 100W Class ''C' Amplifier on: March 06, 2011, 12:27:20 PM
obviously the 807 class C stage in the original post is a KEYED class C stage. It's not being
used to amplify cw.

Peter
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