I think I got it.  The ground radials DO radiate, but being in the near antenna field the magnetic/electric fields CANCEL and net-net, don't effect a far field radiation. 
So, it still demands that soil heating doesn't occur by the radials, and I'm left with the idea that ground radials should not be BURIED for any appreciable distance under grade; does this make sense?  I don't recall reading issues with deeply buried radials, with this new knowledge, it would seem one could still create a problem even with good radials, that have low I2R losses.  You do need good SURFACE conductivity, true? 

I'm along as far as the radial and/or conductive soil currents add to be equal and opposite phase of the vertical element.  My lack of understanding is how these ground radial currents are told not to radiate.  How is this fundamentally different from a half wave dipole, except that half the antenna is at grade?  In other words, how are these supporting currents not radiating? If they are radiating, appears to be a soil warmer.

OK, I have your attention.  Obviously, they can and do work well, as evidenced by all the AM broadcasters in the world.  But, I do have a better question.  If the "ground" side of the vertical carries essentially the same current as the vertical radiator element, where is that power going?  I have Kraus Antenna book, and there is good discussion of perfectly conductive soil, infinite ground planes and the like, but isn't half of the transmit energy ending up heating up dirt?  In fact, he talks of half of the energy delivered to the "image antenna".  What am I missing?  I feel I should know this.  You have lots of RF current in the ground radials; that must radiate, correct?  So, it's radiating at or just below ground level? 

Actually the argument to putting in SSB into a handheld makes some sense.  THe power efficiency is much better than FM and most of the digital voice modes.  But, the market is not there for point to point vhf/uhf ssb, or is it??  Antenna has nothing to do with this.

saw ur vid.  hard to say.  if the noise goes away at nite just before the house lights extinguish, then that's a pretty good giveaway on it being a TV.

This is not a wireless, right?  If the coax choke doesn't do it for you, make an aluminum foil case for it, wrapping a couple of turns around and crimp close to the wiring.  If it's direct chassis radiation, at least you will find out.  If it needs to stay, then decorate it.

THat really bites.  In your case, the culprit appears to start a a fairly low frequency and generally go down in amplitude as the frequency increases.  There are some notable culprits that start being "bad" in the VHF band and go up from there.  Desktop modems, and even cable TV are notable examples.  I hear an awful lot about Samsung and their plasma widescreens.  Would like to see a radiated plot from those someday. Are we sure they pass Part 15 Class B???

One more comment;  It could be that these TV's have a sensitivity to some energy in the Ham band.  I'm not saying to intentionally cause an issue, but there might be some legal mode, frequency, time of day that might compel the owner to turn in the "defective" TV and shop for a "good" TV.

Two homes with two different Trane multi-speed air handlers in the 3 to 4 ton range.  No issues seen on 80 to 15m. 

I mean real local, like right above the shack.  I'm in a new to me basement, actually set up the gear at the wet bar.  Lots of dimmers in the basement driving can lights, so far so good.  No issues with 20 75w can lights driven by some 4 or 5 dimmers.  The lights in the bar are incandescents, again on a dimmer.  But these cause S7 of noise on 15 meters, totally unacceptable.  So I go off and buy a new dimmer, with RFI filter written on the package, no change,  hmmm.  Tried the lights without a dimmer, still S7.  Hmmmm.  I see that these lamps are 12v, hmmmm.   I have somewhere a 12v dimmable power supply hidden in the suspended ceiling.  I finally find it, and low a behold its a no name halogen light "driver" 120v in 12v out, and it's electronic.  hmmmm.   I put on nice large ferrite sleeves on the output, and ,  and, they get warm and still S7.  hmmm.  Yes, the ferrite gets warm almost hot.  This black box is putting out much more than DC and lots of it.  Off I go to get a real iron transformer, 100va or so, and make that work with a dimmer; more challenges, I'm sure.  Now, I read that there are dimmers made for magnetic transformers.  Need a 3 way version.  Life used to be so, simple.

Quite the ozone generator, i'll bet.  I'd like to see the schematic!

is it this:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTOROLA-MICOR-TRN4734-ANTENNA-RELAY-UNUSED-NOI-/260950933427?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Coaxial_Cables_Connectors&hash=item3cc1e33fb3

sure it doesn't have two of those reed contacts?

At about those years, I pumped a couple of watts, on channel, directly into Motorola portable radios to see if it caused damage.  It didn't.

I've seen a nice file comparing the full size ZS6BKW against the G5RV.  Has anyone done a similar study on the ZS6 vs the Jr?   I'm wiling to give up 75m on this dipole, wondering if 40 or 20 is hurt; and hoping for better 15m against all the full size variants.

4B or 4C?

I carried about 6 to 8 HT's thru PBI onetime on business, all with Li-Ion batts attached.  TSA wondered for a time with them, called a supervisor, wiped a couple down and sniffed, but I got to carry them thru OK.  There is no "law" against HT on a plane.  I try to fly without checking bags.  I've had only one item ever confiscated, and it was a box cutter, pre 911, go figure.

Drake 4 line, manual tuner, tube linear, ladder lined dipole.  Run them as separates.  As much knob twisting as possible!