Call Search
     

New to Ham Radio?
My Profile

Community
Articles
Forums
News
Reviews
Friends Remembered
Strays
Survey Question

Operating
Contesting
DX Cluster Spots
Propagation

Resources
Calendar
Classifieds
Ham Exams
Ham Links
List Archives
News Articles
Product Reviews
QSL Managers

Site Info
eHam Help (FAQ)
Support the site
The eHam Team
Advertising Info
Vision Statement
About eHam.net



QSL Managers
     

Ham Links
     


  Home Help Search  
  Show Posts
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 Next
1  eHam Forums / Mobile Ham / RE: Dual Band Install in a 2013 Ford Explorer on: May 08, 2013, 07:39:38 PM
Wish I had taken some pictures earlier tonight on my revised install in my work truck. May post one later, but I stopped at lowes on my way home and bought a 3foot piece of 1x1x1/16" of aluminum angle. I notched out the ends by cutting one side of the angle about 3" from each end. I then drilled a hole on each end. I mounted another piece of angle to this and attached the remote head bracket. Beside that mount, I mounted my amplified/dsp speaker. Where did I put this contraption? Between the two overhead visors using the mounting brackets and screws for the visors to hold everything in place. The speaker is up against the headliner and all is out of the way of the mirror and is secure. I have some minor cable work to finish for the mike and speaker, but I am pretty happy with it.
2  eHam Forums / Antennas and Towers and more / RE: How to manage curly cable? on: March 21, 2013, 10:00:52 AM
If the cable is on one of those cable spools, stick a piece of 1/2" to 1" conduit/pipe through the ends and set the pipe onto two chairs up against the back of the chair. Pull the cable slowly and in a straight line away from the chairs, the back of the chair facing you to help hold the pipe on the chair.

Anything close to this will greatly help you keep away from the yelling and swearing.

If the cable is NOT on a spool but just wound into a coil, cut off any ties holding into a coil shape. Next, get the most accessible end of the cable and place it under something substantial in size and weight. Then slowly unroll the cable as you walk away from the weighted end by holding the coil with at least one hand holding the coil together. Similar to the way you would walk a car tire across your yard, hand over hand, just continue slowly unrolling it.

Not the best explanation, but hopefully you understand how I am trying to explain it.

73,

Joe / AJ3O
3  eHam Forums / Station Building / RE: Well am I done?? on: March 21, 2013, 09:42:48 AM
1. Good quality headphones.

2.Quality microphone AND microphone mount. The mount should be one of the multi-position stands so that you can move it out of the way for more room when going to CW. That's right, you have TWO radios, make it one mic/stand for each radio.

3.Good CW keyer, eh, a cheap one first, you WILL buy a few more in time.

4.A fairly new computer with good logging software, digital software, and good sound cards.

5.TWO monitors to display as much as possible while using said logging software/digital software and still have display room left for spotting sites and email.

6. Another power supply for backup in a pinch or for that new/used dual band vhf/uhf rig(you WILL be getting one, believe me). Does not matter if you ever use it, hams buy stuff.

7. A good atomic dual display clock. These set the time automatically based on the signal from N.I.S.T. You set one side to local, the other for UTC.

8. A multimeter for quick tests for shorts/continuity on various equipment and antenna leads.

9. An antenna analyzer to get more than just the SWR. These help with "tuning" your "tuner" before you even send a signal out.

10. Soldering iron and soldering wick and solder.

11. Good ground bus behind the station equipment.

12. There is ALWAYS something that you can do for your station/house grounding to constantly improve it.

13. A common entrance point into the shack from outside, preferably an approved electrical box outside with enough room for additions.

14. Inside the box at the entrance, static drains, lighting protection connectors, another common ground bus inside this box and more room for other things you will see or read about that will make you say "I just HAVE to add that!".

15. Quality coax, ladder line and LOTS of wire(insulated and bare).

16. Ununs, baluns, splitters, banana connectors/plugs, insulators, misc support rope.

17. A drawer full of n-type, pl-259, 3/8x24, and other misc antenna connectors. These are for those midnight runs outside/inside to fix a connector in the middle of a contest/special event.

18. If you have trees, you are ahead of the game, string up some wire dipoles and verticals and slopers. No trees, get your first artificial tree(tower).

19. Another tower.

20. Beam, quad, hex, shunt fed vertical antennas for said tower/s.

21. MORE grounding for said towers.

22. Good time to try out a delta loop or horizontal loop. You did get that wire previously mentioned, right?

UGHHH, forgot and not going to renumber....... A good roomy desk for the shack with cork board right over the operating station to put up quick notes and reminders.

23. You got the point now right? Hi hi You are NEVER done. You are a HAM now, it won't be long before the bug totally gets you.


Have fun and enjoy the hobby. The point being is you really don't need all of the above, you will want it and more, but only you can keep it as simple or complex as you want. Just remember, keep it SAFE and follow the rules, and most importantly, it is a hobby, treat it as such and the fun will never fade.

73,

Joe / AJ3O
4  eHam Forums / Antennas and Towers and more / RE: antenna book on: March 18, 2013, 06:47:39 AM
The Internet IS your friend.....

Just Google what you are looking for and you will find a wealth of information for free.

For example type in Google: Homebrew antenna for 40 meters

you get:

https://www.google.com/#hl=en&newwindow=1&safe=off&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&q=Homebrew+antenna+for+40+meters&oq=Homebrew+antenna+for+40+meters&gs_l=hp.3..33i29i30l4.1148.1148.0.2307.1.1.0.0.0.0.75.75.1.1.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.1.6.psy-ab.895zzeyeVJ8&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.43828540,d.dmg&fp=2902240a56ffd6e1&biw=1600&bih=770


Just browse and read. If you want to know how something works or want to know what the various lengths or heights are for a specific antenna, just re-type your search and you will get plenty of information.


But, if you read through the ARRL antenna book that you purchased, you will be in good shape. Just remember a few key factors.

1. SAFETY FIRST!!!! Always be aware of what is around you, the antenna you want to put up, and if it will harm anyone that could come into contact with it!

2. Stealth, or it really doesn't matter. If you are in a HOA/CC&R situation, there are many antennas and examples out there. If you live out in the country and have plenty of real estate, go for what ever you want or possibly can handle.

3. Keep the XYL happy or find a happy compromise. This should be tied for # 1.

4. And finally, although not the end by any means, EVERYONE knows that an antenna works better when you build it yourself!  Grin It works even better if you do it in horrible weather. (Snow, rain, windstorm, etc.)  Wink Just ask all the other Hams that have gone this route.....


Above all else, have fun and never give up. Enjoy the hobby and try to help others out as you learn more. It really does pay off later on when you may need another hand.

73,

Joe / AJ3O
5  eHam Forums / Mobile Ham / RE: Mobile Mounts on: March 17, 2013, 07:32:59 AM
If you insist on no holes, one of the options open to you is attachment to a frame member under the car with a mount point in the rear of the bumper.  That may still involve drilling, however, but in a place where drilling can't be seen--or would be noticed.  You would have to be careful, however, that the mount did not stick out too far--check state laws about trailer hitches if you're not sure.


If you go this route, watch out for cabling/fuel lines run through the frame members or directly behind what you are drilling.
6  eHam Forums / Station Building / RE: Building a new shack - literally on: March 16, 2013, 10:47:29 AM
If this is a totally new QTH, look into Ufer grounding for the house. I would look at this closely myself if it were my building.
7  eHam Forums / Antennas and Towers and more / RE: I live in a valley on: March 15, 2013, 03:46:55 PM
Only have three suggestions for you:

1. Find a friend close by and setup a remote station. Not cheap
2. Move to a better location. DEFINITELY NOT cheap
3. Just try and home brew your own antennas out of wire and have fun where you are. On the nice weekends, you can take your equipment and the knowledge you gained from making your own antennas to a higher place and have a blast. CHEAPEST

You will get out and the bands will surprise you.

73,

Joe / AJ3O
8  eHam Forums / Antennas and Towers and more / RE: What do you think about my sneaky idea? on: March 15, 2013, 03:36:57 PM
For all of those saying to start big and compromise smaller(still bigger than what you intend on...) they are right. I told my XYL that I had acquired a 75' self supporting tower and showed her the pictures of the old beast. She flipped out as expected. But when I told her that I had more recently come across a smaller 54' self supporting telescoping tower and showed her the pictures, she said that it was better. Of course the Honey do list has grown since then but that is fine. I am planning the concrete base over-sized so when that 54' tower has some "problems" I can install that 75' tower in its place. By then she will have eased into the situation a little more I hope... HI hi

As with bargaining with a car sales person, you NEVER start small because you can never go up. But it is far easier to start way up high and work it back down to a more suitable compromise.

OR:

It is far easier to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission.

^ Not recommended for us married folks unless it is something insignificant.

I used this idea and the one that the original poster had with my 2 meter vertical. I first installed a home brew mast and j-pole on the back overhang right where she parks. She didn't like it so after letting her complain about it for a few days, I moved it to the side of the house, bottom of the j-pole flush with the gutter line. Again, she didn't like it, but it was far more pleasing than the previous spot she said. Three weeks later, the J-pole "failed" right before an important net so she "let" me put up a nice vertical that I had acquired since erecting the j-pole. Grin Two weeks go by and I am coming down from the ladder as she pulls in.  Embarrassed Yes, it is higher just a little bit but ONLY because I was getting RF into the shack and was causing problems with the house circuits. She sighs and goes inside. Next day, I raised it to its final height above the roof line before she got home and she has never said anything about it again.


73 and good luck,

Joe / AJ3O
9  eHam Forums / Mobile Ham / RE: Mount and location recomendations on: March 13, 2013, 08:47:57 AM
I posted this in another thread.
Yes, it was for a different antenna, but the mount idea is the same.
It may help you a little.

http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php/topic,88247.msg655364.html#msg655364
10  eHam Forums / HomeBrew / RE: Recommended kits if available? on: March 13, 2013, 07:40:37 AM
Sounds like it is similar to my Icom IC-746Pro.

I can practice code with my key WITHOUT transmitting over the air. But if I were to push the footswitch or PTT switch, I WILL transmit CW over the air.

There is also a setting to automatically transmit when in CW mode WITHOUT the footswitch or PTT switch. It is all in the menu settings.

Check your manual for the CW portion of your rig and read through all of the menu items or settings available to you. I know plenty of people use that very same rig and love it just from the postings here alone.
11  eHam Forums / Mobile Ham / RE: Best band for testing when adding grounding to car? on: February 23, 2013, 09:01:44 AM
Note for the exhaust.

Bond it at many spots.
IE: If it is a large vehicle and the exhaust is long, bond it in at least 5 spots to cut down on noise. If is is a compact car, 2 spots might do.

The metal exhaust pipe from the engine to the tip is essentially a floating antenna as the exhaust is typically not solidly mounted to the frame but "Hung" with rubber and steel mounts. On a larger truck such as mine, the exhaust is almost 22' long. Anything over 3 - 4' on hf will resonate and affect your antenna system noticeably.

Visit K0BG.com and read. His info is just about the best.

73,

Joe / AJ3O
12  eHam Forums / Mobile Ham / RE: Engine noise only on HF??? on: February 23, 2013, 08:52:43 AM
Broken record time:

Go to Allan's site stated above. My Dodge Ram diesel gave me all kinds of noise until I followed not all, but most of his suggestions. I did as much as I could afford, a little at a time, and the biggest improvement was after I bonded the bed, cab, and exhaust to the frame the best I could. S9 noise went to S1 on good days and at the worst I still have S2-S3 noise. BIG HUGE DIFFERENCE in all aspects of HF mobile!

As a side note, if the your diesel is common rail fed, check for any wiring that is loose or broken. Also  have your alternator checked for bad wiring. Sounds like RFI from something under the hood as you mentioned that it speeds up with RPM.

Google Ford TSA and see if any issues have been acknowledged and addressed.
Ford also may have an installation guide for your particular truck for shops that install radios. Dodge does so I am not sure.
Google IS your friend here.

A good place to check also is a Ford truck forum with people that run mobiles. Stay away from the Chicken Bander sites as it seems that they all claim bogus stats and direct you to their favorite antenna or radio shop......

Hope this helped even a little.

73,

Joe / AJ3O
13  eHam Forums / Mobile Ham / RE: Little Tarheel II on: February 23, 2013, 08:36:25 AM
If the front fenders and hood are metal, get a mount similar to this:

http://www.sauderelectronics.com/Stainless-Steel-High-Rise-Hood-Groove-Mount-SSWKH1.htm

and

http://www.sauderelectronics.com/All-Brass-3-8-x-24-SO-239-Stud-Mount-Right-Angle-SM1L.htm

Using a heavy duty SS u-bolt on the front fender holding my mount on a dodge ram (Similar but different size mount specifically for the ram) it has held up to 80+ mph and there is a little hole in the mount to which you connect a ground braid to the body/frame.

The plus to this setup is that I don't need the auto tuner for the Little Tarheel II as I can visually see where I am and tune it up or down as needed to speed up the process.

This is NOT the PERFECT setup, but it has allowed me to do HF mobile without the bosses yelling about holes anywhere else on the truck. "The one on the roof for my Larson was enough for them.... Hi hi) With the cap on the bed, I couldn't utilize the stake mounts and I am in and out of the bed too much for the hitch mounts. Mounting it to the roof rack would have been to costly replacing the antenna as I hit a lot of overhead obstacles in my line of work. (Branches, wires, etc.)

Also, doing it this way, I haven't done any damage to the truck other than the little area under the hood where I sanded away a spot of paint under an existing bolt to connect my ground braid and I applied an anti-ox compound to it.

Also, if you look carefully towards the door hinges when it is opened, there is usually a heavy foam piece between the door and engine/fender compartment that will allow you to bring the coax and control cables into the cab without drilling any holes. Just keep an eye on the coax occasionally.

I have worked European, Russian, S. American, Canadian stations and many States from coast to coast with some hill topping and good conditions all barefoot.

Give something a try as it will work better than that Little Tarhill II sitting in your basement.

73,

Joe / AJ3O
14  eHam Forums / Antennas and Towers and more / RE: Ground Wire on: February 21, 2013, 06:21:19 AM
Ray,

See the other thread you posted about tubing. 18" minimum radius, two foot radius or more is better.
15  eHam Forums / Antennas and Towers and more / RE: Copper Tubing For Ground Wire on: February 21, 2013, 06:17:57 AM
Again, the grounding wire would suffice as long as you put a smooth radius at the turns.

Picture this: Your elbow is right at the corner of the house, swing it left to right. Your finger tips would be the absolute minimum for the radius. Make the radius around the turn a little larger than that and you are good.


Are there any Ham clubs in the area where one of the guys could come over and help you?
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 Next
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!