danger, warning, fattening, etc:  fooling with the stove cb can burn up your warranty.

having covered my tailbone... running all wires through the same clip-over ferrite can't hurt.  any sensor-type stuff should be fine if you wire a .001 to .01 ceramic capacitor across it for RF bypass.  put a ferrite snap-over on the AC line to the stove as close as you can get to the stove itself.

off-center dipole feed means there is reflected power on the coax jacket... there are snap-over ferrites for that, too, from places like RF Engineering and MFJ.

and make sure you have a common ground bus connected to all the chassis of your ham equipment; it's something that's been in the handbook since 1799.

you don't have to worry about RF leakage here.  no worries about out of band transmissions.  hackjob terminations result in practically 0.001 % distortion at 0 dB.  don't sweat the asterisks on audio.  the precision of your test equipment is nowhere good enough to see the difference.

take a BNC tee, run your test lead out of the generator on one side, slapdash a 560 or 620 resistor on the other side by sticking one lead in the center socket and using a clip lead to tie the other end to the shell.

if you can find old Heathkit test gear on DaWeb, that's plenty good enough for anything a ham is going to buy for an audio amp.  the B&W twins are clones of 30s HP equipment, they'll get to 0.1% most days, and probably cheap as cat food now, too.  if you're worried about overpowering the test equipment, put a 100K pot in series with the analyzer and back it down an eighth of its travel at a time until you hit your reference input with the analyzer input around half open.

if you are testing equipment using $600 tubes for audiophools, well, you will need a GPIB test station with strip chart recorder certified and traced to NIST standards to three decimals, $50 a foot wire, and $200 a line billing software.  and a hand-knit beret from nymphs in the forest made from unicorn hair.  and a fake accent.

round here, we don't post with pants on.  hook 'er up and tune for maximum smoke.

common electrolytic capacitor ratings back in the day were - 50% + 100%, so I'd look elsewhere for your higher B+ cause.  might you have a tube not drawing current, or a shorted-low resistor in the circuit path?

not every entrance panel is expandable, for the simple reason that breakers for some old crud are no longer availiable.  in the case of FPE and Zinser/Sylvania, there is a darn good reason, there are enough insulation, construction, and breaker flaws to rightly label them "arcwelders."

but if you're in for a dime and in for a dollar with non-disaster power distribution, heck, get some piggyback breakers if you can, double up some lighting circuits on them, and go for the pileup buster.

I am not an engineer, but I saw one slip on the ice in a parking lot once.

the idea behind beefing up the connections and elements of a tube and rating it for pulse service comes from bombardment shock.  a pulse duty service like radar or sonar may have an average current across the tube that falls within ratings, but the instantaneous current can be hundreds of times higher for some number of microseconds.

normal ratings are based on sustained average power dissipation over time, something that is nicely represented by the sine wave average of current across the elements in an AM transmitter, for instance.

the things pulse-rating bring to the table for amateur service would be better shock resistance and probably a thicker emission surface promising some longer life.  there will not be more amps in the antenna, and some yahoo driving a kilowatt amplifier with a kilowatt amplifier is still going to be doing their showering in sparks.

I would not automatically assume that a selected tube from normal production being "pulse rated" guarantees those advantages.  like a Zenith, it should be designed in, not added on.

electrolytic capacitors in singles are encased in PVC shrink tubing with the specs printed on it.  as long as the material remains intact, it is supposed to be enough insulation for the cap's rated working voltage.  if you have reason to not trust that the board traces and sleeve are inadequate, use a stripe of glue to both hold the thing off the board and insulate it.  heck, wax will work.

most everything else now is cased in epoxy for stability and moisture resistance that will hold off voltages above the rated.

if you have a Signal/One other than the MilSpec, The Community does a pretty good job of supporting them.  parts are readily availiable.

of course, there are manuals and schematics about.  not so for the MilSpecs, especially the converted Icoms.

>> You've got to remember that back then things were done to last--and with materials that would outlast the newer, more modern materials that have been used since then

I don't buy it.  the KnT in my folks' house was 18 gauge Copperweld.  no way in heck that stuff is good for 15 amps.  wsn't then, isn't now.  I went whaling on that stuff at every opportunity, and much of it had the gutta-percha or crackly rubber coming off at the touch.

consider a read on the W8JI website... http://www.w8ji.com/fl2100_problems.htm  and http://www.w8ji.com/hf_stability.htm .  verify the present amp against the schematics, check your ground paths for really good ground, and then consider modding and testing after each change.

on its face, sounds like these guys don't want to get busted at the Customs desk.

I suspect they would be.

and the guy ordering would be the one stuck outta luck.

since you mentioned scopes... use a dual-trace, feed A from the sig gen, feed B from the IF strip, overlay the traces and tune for identical.  or invert B and tune for flatline.

but a communications device meant to not have a wide bandwidth, I always just tuned for maximum output, and received attaboys.  you want wide bandwidth, you have to stagger tune the coils.

it is required at our club's annual auctions, and proof of licensure is a moderately common requirement.

double-edged sword... a guy working towards his test can't buy a transceiver to copy code, for instance.  but it slows down enough freebanders to be worth doing.

I have a Hickok 533A to test the older stuff, and a Sencore 154A for newer stuff.  both have their advantages.  the Sencore manual actually has the steps needed to develop a test for newer type tubes, based on what you find in the spec sheet for that tube.

the special sauce is knowing what each knob, dial, and button does on your tester, and what socket pins go where. got that, use your noggin, write down the new tube recipe for the future.

I don't see 31 mix ferrite in the Amidon spec sheets... I do see 43 listed up to 15 MHz primary range, with discussion up to 40 MHz.

curves for these mixes don't drop off like a crystal filter, but wander about a bit on the slope to -60 dB.  if you have multiple stages, you can stagger-tune them for flat response with a little extra amplification in a strip amplifier.  if this is for oscillator service, you shouldn't squeeg and stop at 19.2, but might have a little reduced output.  nothing critical unless you are building for Uncle Sam and there are 10 stages of rejection in the purchasing process.

43 ought to do you proud.  but I grew up using iron powder toroids, and the #2 mix is high-Q from 2 to 30 MHz.  it should be flatter.

general rule about Tyco (fka Amp)... the connectors may be inexpensive, may not be,  but there is almost always a tool involved, and the usual price is $280.