A "fan" or parallel dipole will give you a lot of inexpensive bang for the buck, Ben.  I have two:  The Alpha-Delta DX-EE for 10, 15, 20 & 40M and a homebrew fan for 10, 12 and 30M running perpendicular to it.  You will enjoy the benefit of fewer support points and (if properly tuned or used in conjunction with a good tuner at the center point) some pretty quick band changes.

Note:  My experiments proved that the 40-10M DX-EE and the homebrew WARC fan did not play well on the same feed point, which is why I ended up with two separate fan dipoles.  The other good news is that you will have access to (at least) seven HF bands with just two coax feed lines.  And if you're lucky and can run the WARC elements perpendicular to the 40-10M elements you might be able to get away with sharing a single feed line.  I didn't attempt that as I had burned enough time trying to get some of the WARC band elements to join the feedpoint of the DX-EE and gave up.

(I have a 1:1 balun at the feed point of both antennas and agree with the other poster's recommendation)

Good luck.  I had a ball experimenting with my dipoles.  Sometimes getting there is MOST of the fun.

73,

Terry, WØFM

First you might want to confirm that your "stucco" is, in fact, true stucco, which would have the metal lathe undercoat that supports the cement that supports the stucco.  Many new "stucco" homes here in the Midwest are not real stucco, but a Styrofoam-like faux stucco that has no metal mesh behind it.  It's just cosmetic, attached to the plywood walls with glue and roofing nails. 

If your stucco is the type without the metal mesh layer behind it then your downspouts become a better possibility for use as a vertical antenna.  I have had many years of hamming fun using downspouts on a wood frame home when all other bets were off limits.

Check it out.

Terry, WØFM

Bryan,

Understand the attachment screw now.  Its a plastic "molly"-type anchor with the screw threaded into it, not a plastic insert in the eye of the screw.  Thanks for the clarification. Either way, you are correct to beef it up.

WØFM

Hi Randy,

I am one who likes to keep the "latest and greatest" tools on hand, but I would not purchase the newest Antenna Handbook if I already had one that was less than five or ten years old.  The most basic theory of antennas goes back a gazillion years and is not likely to change much.  The newer Handbooks I have looked over have updated drawings and somewhat better photos for the most part, but the formulas and graphs are basically the same.  You can learn to understand antennas by reading the 1968 version of the Handbook or the very latest one.

That said, there are always a few "nuggets" in each new addition and I try to get my hands on one for a quick preview just in case there is something new.  But, generally not worth the price of a whole new book.

73,

Terry, WØFM

Ben,

Being unhappy with the TX/RX of the DX-80 (actual model is DX-CC) is less likely to be a factor of the antenna than other issues.  How high is the center of the inverted V?  What is the height of each end?  Why are you looking at adding wire to the DX-CC?  is it resonant too high and you want to bring the resonant point lower?

A balanced, resonant dipole like the DX-CC will generally be a better performer than an end fed.  I have the DX-EE version in my attic with over 275 countries confirmed using 100W.

Here is the direction you are requesting:  Forget the end fed.  Get the DX-CC as high as possible.  Prune each segment to the portion of that band that you want to use with the aid of a (borrowed?) antenna analyzer.  (There is no ground plane counterpoise required with this balanced antenna so your lightning arrestor ground will be all you should need).  Add wire if necessary to bring the antenna into resonance.

Your tuner can "fool" the transmitter into thinking the antenna is resonant, but nothing beats a good old "naked" resonant dipole.

Grab a copy of the ARRL Antenna Handbook (even an old one) and become more familiar with how each type of HF antenna works. 

Good luck.

73,

Terry, WØFM

WH7DX mentioned: " I think the guy rope and anchor is critical and I'm going to increase one of the anchor bolts going into the lip of the roof.   That is way under-rated compared to rope etc - small eye loop with plastic plug."

That comment concerns me.  This sounds like a stand-off insulator for 300 Ohm TV twin lead.  These were never intended to be "anchor bolts" for guy rope.  Please don't use it for that purpose or anything else except as it was intended...a stand-off twin lead insulator.  It will not be safe.

Good luck with the upgrade project.

Terry, WØFM

http://www.farmlandinfo.org/documents/30548/IthacaZoning.pdf

I searched the town code that Don provided for "antennae" and got hits on Page 8 and reference to "Fall Area" on P155.  Have a closer look there.  (I also searched "aerial" with no results.

Terry, WØFM

I've painted a number of Hustler 4, 5 and 6-BTV's due to HOA concerns.  I used Krylon spray in tan, green and brown to make a camo effect.  If your antenna is tunable, make certain you've got the tuning nailed down before you paint it or you will find yourself sanding paint off to adjust the length of the antenna.  Avoid metallic paint for obvious reasons.

Insulators?  Maybe he means "traps".  Either way, tune it up first, then paint.  I had very good results making my antennas disappear.

73,

Terry, WØFM

Thanks Mike.  I never knew that link existed until now.  I need to take some time to clean it out. 

No, I never intended to be notified on an entire Elmers category.  I think I posted that I was advised of that and fixed it.  That was cockpit error.

Thanks again,

Terry, WØFM

Hi William,
I hope it goes without saying, but I always made a point to remove speakers (paper cones), dial cords, etc that were made of material that does not play well with water.  Many paper caps were more easily replaced than dried out obviously.

I have done this a number of times and always used Dawn dish detergent even though I have no testing to prove that its chemical makeup really made a difference.  But aluminum never tarnished during my cleanings.

Have fun and good luck.

Terry, WØFM

When I click "Notify" on a post I want to follow, I receive email Notifications of other, unrelated posts that I have never even read.  I do get the notifications that I requested as well.  Is this a site glitch or am I doing something wrong?  What gives?

73,

Terry, WØFM

I didn't read K1WJ's post as demeaning toward you at all.  His point was clearly that, being a technician class, you are unlikely to need multi-band HF capabilities at this point.  (Soon, hopefully, but not right now).  So the 10M balanced dipole presents somewhat fewer complications than what would have to be addressed with the G5RV.

I really don't think it was a slam against a Tech class licensee.

73,

Terry, WØFM

(either way, a choke in the feed line would still be in order)

If you use a non-metallic hat (standard hard hat) you can line the inside with copper foil tape or aluminum tape.  Be sure to get "bridges" between the tape edges so it is all connected together.  Then install your antenna connector into the top of the had making certain the metal (ground side) of the connector makes good contact with the foil tape.

While the foil *may* provide some RF protection to your head, I'd keep the power low just to be safe.

73,

Terry, WØFM

I had the good fortune of designing and building my current home in 1996.  Keeping my hobby in mind, and knowing that I would be utilizing my attic for some number of antennas, I had the builder route all A/C, audio, telephone and alarm lines below the attic floor.  Also, the attic was designed void of any HVAC equipment or ductwork. 

The roof is a "hip truss" design, giving more than enough room to stand up in the attic.  The trusses were engineered to leave a 16'x16' clear space in the attic center.  The builder constructed two "catwalk" like ramps of 2x4's and plywood so I could easily maneuver to the outer-most ends of the attic.  I had almost the entire attic floor decked with plywood and a 4" PVC run from the attic floor down between walls to the "shack" location in the basement.    Simple to drop coax and control lines straight down the pipe into the shack wall. 

The roofing material is non-metallic.  I have one AC outlet in the attic with a couple of portable work lights.  The shack ceiling is sound insulated as mentioned by others and it works quite well.  A door in the finished radio room leads directly to a workbench and shop on the other side of the wall. 

I made sure my builder understood what I was trying to accomplish and the effort was certainly worthwhile.  The total "upcharge" for the extra attic construction was around $800.00.  I currently have a dozen antennas in the large attic.  Everything from a 3 ele 6M beam/rotor, multi band dipoles, discones, ground planes, AZ-EL satellite antennas, M2 Eggbeaters for 2M and 440, a 2M yagi, loops and end fed wires.

So, even if you are planning to have a couple nice towers outside, don't overlook your potential attic space.  There is a lot that can happen up there.  And, particularly when you can address it before any wood goes up.

Best of luck with your build.

73,

Terry, WØFM

K2GWK wrote:  "Maybe its a leased vehicle." 

This is pure nonsense.  I don't know why people are convinced that a "leased vehicle" is off limits for antenna holes.  I have driven a dozen leased vehicles since 1975 and every one of them had at least one NMO mount in the center of the roof and a few more on the trunk deck.  NEVER has a leasing company questioned it upon return.  I'm talking "leased" car....not the same as a "rental" car.

A few years ago, after many exchanges like this one about hole or no-hole, I contacted my company's vehicle leasing agency.  They told me that they could care less about antenna holes in the vehicles being returned from leases. 

We have over 35 vehicles under lease that we drive every day.  Every one of them has one or more NMO mounts installed in holes drilled in the vehicle.

If you don't want to drill holes in your car/truck, then don't.  But please stop promoting the nonsense that it reduces the resale value of the vehicle or goes against the wishes of the leasing agency.

Go mobile!

73,

Terry, WØFM