Bill's right, Dan.  The only way you could get by WITHOUT a duplexer in your situation is to invest in separate antennas for 2M and 440.  If you already own a dual band antenna then it's time to start shopping for a duplexer.

73,

Terry, WØFM

Hi.  On the FT-847, 2 Meter output connects only to the 2M antenna connector and 70cm connects only to the 70cm antenna connector.  The 6 meter output can be switched via the menu between the dedicated 6 meter antenna connector and the HF antenna connector.  You probably will have to use a duplexer.  Good luck.

Terry, WØFM

Thanks Steve!  Ironically, I had planned to use a large spool of green zip cord I had left over from Christmas light work for the radials anyway.  They would totally disappear against the green vinyl covered chain links.  Somehow I knew you'd have another angle on this one!  73,

Terry, WØFM

OK group, here's one I've been chewing on all winter.  First, let me say that I have owned three Hustler 6BTV verticals, in three separate locations, and experienced very good results with each, in spite of antenna restrictions and the legacy of verticals radiating "equally bad in all directions".  

One 6BTV I ground mounted and painted in camoflage colors.  Another, I encased in a PVC pipe and made it a flagpole.  Still another, I clamped to an upright fence post of a standard 4 foot chain link fence at ground level.  In every case, I used the Hustler-supplied mount (so the driven element was isolated from the fence in the last scenario).  I convinced myself that the chain link fence provided a poor man's counterpoise.

This spring I plan to put up a new 6BTV on my antenna- restricted property.  The "flagpole" approach is not an option at this point.  So, once again, I will spray paint it in camo colors (after fine tuning, of course).  The best stealth location that I have identified is a back corner of my property, among some trees and shrubs.

There is plenty of space for ground radials among the large ivy bed back there and the ground conductivity is quite good.  Unfortunately, the location would put this antenna within 1 to 2 feet of a 5 foot tall chain link fence that's just east of the antenna.  The fence's uprights and top horizontal bars are galvanized, bare metal.  However, the cris-crossed chain links themselves are metal, individually coated in green vinyl (thus, for the most part, they don't make electrical connection with each other).

So far, I figure I have at least three options:

1.  GROUND MOUNT the antenna on its factory-supplied mount as far away from the fence as possible (again, this would be less than 2 feet at best) CONCERN:  How badly would the 5 foot tall chain link fence shield the signal toward the east, particularly with regard to the 10M (closest to the ground) element.

2.  Mount the antenna NEAR GROUND LEVEL on one of the upright fence posts on the chain link fence. CONCERN:  Again, the chain link and fence post will run parallel to and shield the antenna to the east to a height of about 5 feet up from the ground and just inches from the radiating element.  Wait.... maybe that could be a "director" for the east or a "reflector" for the west? )

3.  Mount the antenna further up, NEAR THE TOP of the 5 foot fence post to get the antenna above ALL the metal in the fence.  CONCERN:  That would seem to dictate elevated, tuned radials which I cannot do at this location.  Could I still use ground radials with the antenna mounted at that height (5 FT)?  

In each case, unfavorable interaction and detuning raise their ugly heads as possibilities (NO... make that probabilities!).  Seems like a case of the lesser of three evils here.

Any thoughts you guys could offer would be appreciated.  Now, for fun, pour yourself a tall one and try to model these on EZNEC!   Thanks.

73,
Terry, WØFM

Hi Jason!  In the commercial two-way radio business, we install a square of adhesive metalic foil to the underside of fiberglass vehicles (shuttle bus roofs, ambulance roofs and, yes, 'Vetts.)  The NMO antenna mount grounds to the foil on the underside of the body.  The foil is available at your local two-way radio shop or from vendors like Tessco (800) 472-7373 or Hutton at (877) 648-8866.  Good luck,

Terry, WØFM

I guess I should have mentioned that I already own the RIGblaster Plus and currently use it for PSK and true CW keying of the radio (with CWType).  (Actually I have 2 RIGblasters, the second being on my FT-847).  So, as easy as the interface you've suggested would be, the RIGblaster is sitting there (paid for) on the rig with serial port PTT from the computer and all ready to go.  I simply would like to "clean up" the front panels by eliminating the extra mic cord going to the front of the RIGblaster.  Just anal, I suppose.
Thanks for the response.  73,
Terry, WØFM

Seems that I read something on interfacing the RIGblaster Plus direct to the FT-1000MP via the rig's DVS-2 7-pin DIN connector and RIGblaster's RJ-45 connector.  I have the West Mountain Radio unterminated RJ-45 cable, but, unfortunately the schematic supplied with the RIGblaster is so small and fuzzy that I cannot tell what the 8 color coded wires in the RJ-45 correspond to.  Has anyone done this before that could provide the proper wiring diagram?  Also, would the mic audio remain hot while using PSK-31 through the DVS-2 connector?  Thanks.
73,
Terry, WØFM

Hi Gary,

For HF, you might have better luck with a wire vertical held up by a substantial tree branch.  I did this with a 40' length of insulated wire, an end insulator and a hunk of black dacron rope.  I shot the rope over the tree with a sling shot device, pulled the wire up straight and tied off the rope.  At the base of the vertical wire I had an SGC-230 antenna coupler working against a ground rod and some 40 foot ground radials.  (The Icom AH-4 or LDG RT-11 should do well also)  It worked pretty good and caused no problems with the tree.  It was flexible enough that high winds never stressed the wire enough to break it.  

On VHF, I made a simple J-pole antenna out of 300 ohm twin lead (plans for these are everywhere!) and hoisted it up the tree with the same rope.  Worked OK on 2 meters but was more prone to wind and ice problems due to the heavy length of coax hanging below it.

Either way, these simple, easy to install solutions sound more attractive to me than climbing the tree and doing all that hardware stuff.  Good luck,

Terry, WØFM

Sorry, I failed to respond to your last question.  I am putting up a Hustler 6BTV.  I've had two previously and they work very nicely with the ground conductivity we enjoy here in St. Louis.  Got to camoflage it and stick it in the trees out back.  That installation will be the subject for another Elmer's post!

Terry, WØFM

Thanks guys!  I have access to enough Heliax or LMR400 to make the run, but wasn't sure if even 100% shielding would be sufficient to totally isolate the signal from the low voltage lines.  

If I used conduit, I would probably be better off not grounding the conduit because that would put it at the same potential as the shield on the coax, so, you're right, the conduit might just radiate leakage like the shield of the coax.

Maybe, I could use Line Isolators on either end of the run.  I failed to mention that I plan to run UP TO 1kw on 80-10 meters.

Thanks again,

Terry, WØFM

I am about to install a new feed line for an HF antenna and the only route from the shack to the back yard will require my coax to run parallel to, and within 8-10" of, an existing tight bundle of telephone, cable TV, alarm and speaker wires installed along the floor joists in the basement during the home's construction.  

The length of the run that will put the coax parallel to the above mentioned low-voltage wiring will total about 25 feet, then the coax will exit to the outdoors and be buried.  

After calculating potential wavelength relationships, I began thinking about running the new coax (RG-213) in grounded metal conduit for the full length of the 25' parallel indoor run to minimize any coupling and help keep RFI in check with regard to those low-voltage lines.

Obviously, the 25' parallel run only adds to the RFI susceptibility of the already vulnerable telephone, TV, speaker and alarm wires in such close proximity.  Conventional thinking would suggest that the coax be run at right angles to house wiring where possible.  Unfortunately, that is not an option here.

Is my thinking on the conduit shielding sound or just a waste of my time and money?  Any insight, thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.  

73,

Terry, WØFM        

Hello Humberto,

It sounds like you would be interested in mods for the '1000MP in general.  There are a couple of nice mods for the FT-1000MP on the INRAD web site: http://www.qth.com/inrad .  I did the front end mod ($55) for better receive sensitivity and have thought about the AGC mod shown there as well.

In addition, there are a ton of FT-1000MP operating tips and mods on VA3CR's web page: http://www.qsl.net/va3cr/index/main.html.

Good luck.  I hope this helps you.  I love my FT-1000MP.  Have fun!

73,
Terry WØFM

 

Hi Ian.  Looks like you've already gotten good answers to your question, so I'll just add a constructive tip.  When you get the loop tuned to the point that you are happy with it, tack the corners down with small dabs of silicone caulking.  Maybe add a few dabs every few feet along the lengths as well.  It will keep the wire in place in windy weather.  It's pretty easy to pop it off if you want to take the antenna up.  I used black wire and black silicone to tack it to my black roofing shingles.  Down right invisible!  Good luck and have fun.

Terry, WØFM

The Alpha Delta is a good choice for what you want to do.  If the neighbors (or your family) don't like the looks of it, then put it in the attic.  Monday night I worked VP6DI and XRØX for countires number 233 and 234 respectively with 100 watts and an Alpha Delta DX-EE in my attic.  Pretty decent for a "compromise" wire  antenna.  Good luck and have fun.  Terry, WØFM

For Steve, WB2WIK:  Interesting concept on the re-radiating bedsprings.  (Not that different that the garbage we experience on high density RF sites when dissimilar metals react and re-radiate.)

But, it pains me to think of the money my wife has wasted on her electric blanket when the radiating bedsprings could have done the same job!  "Good night honey, sleep well....I'll go down and fire up the linear"   :-)  

Terry, WØFM