I have also used WB6BYU's dangling "stub" approach for tuning dipoles and it works quite effectively, particularly in permanent installations.  The little springy things (I'm now told they are called "cord stops" or "stoppers") are convenient for adjusting frequency or even changing bands while in portable or temporary operations.  73, Terry, WØFM

Looks like you've gotten several good answers to your original question, so I'll just offer a tip to make the dipole tuning a bit easier.  

After I got tired of continually wrapping and unwrapping bare copper dipole legs at the insulators during "pruning", I came up with an easier solution to this tedious requirement.

I went to my wife's favorite sewing store and picked up a package of the little barrel-shaped, spring loaded thinga-ma-jigs that they use to keep the draw string from pulling out of a kid's jacket or hooded sweatshirt.  Don't even know if they have a name, but they are metal or plastic, shaped like a barrel, have a single hole in the side to accomodate the draw string and an internal spring to hold it snugly closed.  

You squeeze the two ends together to release pressure on the draw string, then reposition it and when you release it, it locks on the draw string again. (Anyone know what these things are called?)  

Anyway, now, when putting up a new dipole, I run the wire through the opening in TWO of these little devices, through the dog bone insulator, back through the opening in the springy trap closest to the insulator, wrap it once, lightly around itself, then just barely through the inner-most springy thing at the tip of the wire.  The bare wire shorts out against itself at the first springy thing, again where its folded back on itself, and, again at the other springy thing at the wire's end.  All excess is consequently eletrically removed from the antenna lenght, but still there if needed.  

If you need to adjust the antenna more, you just squeeze the little springy things and pull an equal amount of wire through each end insulator.  Then you release the little springy thing, reposition is and, Ta Da!  Your antenna is adjusted.  The best part is that it can easily be readjusted over and over.  I used this technique with very flexible "Flex Weave" antenna wire in my hotel room on a trip to the Caymans.  Fast, easy adjustment of a single dipole for multi band use!  

This works best for inverted vees (minimal pulling on the connections) and dipoles permanently installed in the attic where they do not rust.  Also good for portable operation and just the INITIAL tuning for outdoor vees and dipoles to find the right length prior to permantenly wrapping or soldering the ends.  Try it....it's a great help.  73, Terry, WØFM

I use LogWindows 3.07 logging software which includes a simple QSL label printing option.  LogWindows does everything I need and more.  But, while LW's QSL label program is basically acceptable, it leaves something to be desired from a creativity standpoint.  I have used Avery Label-Pro and Microsoft Word to customize QSL labels but have alway wondered what the "big guys" who do thousands of cards for DXpeditions use to create labels, particularly labels involving multiple contacts with the same station.  Which program do you like best?  Any suggestions?  Terry, WØFM

The MURS VHF channels are still heavily populated with high volume business users.  Until MURS, 154.570 and 154.600 were exclusively VHF Business Radio Channels (FCC Part 94) restricted to mobile operations (the FCC includes portables here) and 2 watts or less of output power.  Base stations, under 2 Watts, with antennas under 20 above ground could also be licensed as a "mobile" on them.  Many former business users are still licensed and active on these channels and will continue to be able to renew their licenses for them.  There are a ton of business entities on these two channels alone, along with a zillion users who bought radios through catalog vendors on these "dot" frequencies and didn't bother to license them at all.  The other VHF MURS channels had 110 Watt power limitations for businesses, and, consequently, could be overpowering on the channel.  It would be good to be aware of these issues prior to plunking down your hard earned cash for radios on these frequencies.  73, Terry, WØFM

Hi Mike! (A fellow St. Louisan?)  I had originally purchased a standard M8 RigBlaster assuming that I could do actual CW keying with it (it does MCW).  When the RigBlaster PLUS came out and was reviewed on this site, I discovered that the PLUS did the TRUE CW keying as opposed to Modulated CW on the M8.  In addition to N1ZZZ's comments about being able to utilize the narrow CW filters on your rig, you also get the benefit of true QSK with the PLUS.  After my puzzled post in the eHam "Product Review" forum, Del, K1UHF, from West Mountain Radio emailed me and explained how the PLUS version's direct CW keying is easier on your rig (relays, etc).  So I bought a PLUS and moved my M8 to another radio.  I'd recommend that, if you need further clarification of all the differences, you contact Del at West Mountain Radio.  He has heard all the questions before and is very helpful.  73, Terry, WØFM

Yeah, I know....Scott's better looking!  
de Terry, WØFM

Like Scott, KK7JS, I enjoy receiving a QSL card with a photo of a ham and his/her station.  For the first time in my ham career, I have a photo and my call on the front of my card (www.qrz.com) and all the pertinent information on the back, including my call sign, again, in large print.  I have used a number of QSL card providers in the past 40 years, and I think that Valery at Octavia produces some of the finest cards I've seen.  I also think that what Steve, WB2WIK, meant to say was that your call and all the QSO information should be on the SAME SIDE of the card, be it the front OR the back.  If you choose to use a photo on the front of your card, be sure to have your call sign prominently displayed (again) on the back with the rest of the contact information.  This relieves the QSL manager or sorter from having to flip the card back and forth during processing.  They appreciate that!  73, Terry, WØFM

If all of the above advice fails, try adding a foot or two of additional wire to the end of your long wire antenna.  This has worked for me a few times.  Just a simple alligatgor clip and some wire from the junk box.  Sometimes this easy fix can chase the gremlins and ghosts right out of an auto tuner.  73, Terry, WØFM

Hi Pete!
I have experimented with two types of multi-band (multi-element, common feed) dipoles.  One type has elements that fan out from the center feed point, much like slices of pie.  Each element is cut to resonance for the band intended and each element's far end is secured to a convenient support at different levels.  The other type (like the Alpha Delta DX-EE) has elements that attach to the common feed point, but are then held apart at EQUAL spacing by insulated spreaders.  This dipole's elements run parallel (like ladder line) to each other and are spaced about 6" apart.  Only the longest of the parallel elements (the top element) has to be tied off to a support at the end, and the shorter elements hang below it, supported by the insulated spreaders.  There is some interaction with both types of multi element dipoles, but, then again, were talking about somewhat of a compromise here anyway.
Personally, in spite of all that I have read, I have never noticed a significant difference in the performance.  The true parallel multi-band dipole hung "flat-top" style always seemed easier for me to install and prune.  A case might be made in favor of the inverted "V" characteristics of the fan dipole, but, I'd suspect that they both work pretty similar.  The final decision might be to just go with which ever one is more convenient for your particular installation.  Good luck.  Terry, WØFM

I've got 177 countries confirmed using 100 watts into an Alpha Delta DX-EE dipole hung in an inverted "V" fashion in the attic.  The DX-EE is a full size half wave, multi element "fan" dipole on 10, 15 and 20 and the 40M leg uses "Iso Res" chokes to shorten its length.  It has a single coax feed.  It gives me good results on those bands.  The far ends of each of the 40M legs are bent around in a sort of "zig-zag" fashion to accomodate all the wire in the smallish space.  Good luck.  73, Terry, WØFM

Find "Big Bath" here:

http://www.tubesandmore.com/

8 OZ Can $8.95
12 OZ Can $12.95

Terry, WØFM

I had good success with a product called "Big Bath" that is available in a high pressure spray can from Antique Electronic Supply in Arizona.  It packs a lot of pressure to get crud out of tight places, then it evaporates, so there is no significant drying process required.  I used this to restore a 1930 Philco cathederal radio that looked like it had been through a Peruvian mud slide!  Get the large size and use it freely.  My Philco required no additional cleaning after a couple rounds of the "Big Bath".  Good luck.  Terry, WØFM

Great attitude, Will!  That's what this hobby is all about...tinkering and experimenting.  It's amazing how much more patient I am with hobby-related problems, when the same level of frustration in other areas of my life would have me pulling my hair out!!  I think you'll eventually lick the antenna problem Will.  In the mean time, I hope your rock solid attitude is highly contageous!  73,  Terry WØFM

Many thanks Steve.  That's exactly what I was looking for.  Will put it to good use.  73,  Terry, WØFM

Well, my apologies to W7SAC and KB3FEI, but I couldn't find the email from WD8DK, so I'll try to summarize his idea and describe how I'd attempt the modification.  WD8DK basically said he'd add the Hustler MO-3 mobile mast (with appropriate resonator) to the base of the 6BTV (everything here applies to the 4BTV and 5BTV as well).  With the 17M resonator attached, the transmitter would see a 17M resonant element (the Hustler MO-3 mobile mast and resonator) and temporarily ignore the rest of the 6BTV.  Same in the case of the 12M resonator.  Use a small stainless or aluminum L-shaped bracket (maybe 2"x4") at the base of the 6BTV with a hole in the longer leg to accomodate the 3/8x24 threaded stud on the bottom of the MO-3 mast.  This would allow the MO-3 and resonator to stand parallel to the 6BTV at (about) ground level, and 3-4 inches away from the 6BTV vertical radiator.  One or two stand-off supports could be made from small diameter PVC or plastic rod and fastened between the 6BTV and MO-3 with nylon cable ties, taking some of the stress off the L-bracket.  I could see the L-Bracket attached to the 6BTV via a couple of self-tapping stainless steel screws, but the screws would have to be removed to take the vertical down as they would protrude into the vertical's base pipe.  An alternate approach would be to secure the L-bracket to the base of the 6BTV using the supplied hose clamp that clamps the 6BTV to the pipe on its ground mounting bracket.  Just loosen the clamp, tuck the short leg of the L-bracket under it and re-tighten it.  Make sure you have a good, clean electrical contact there because that's now your feed point for the 12 and 17M Hustler mobile portion of the antenna.  You'll probably need to re-adjust the 12 and 17M stingers to compensate for the slightly longer lower mast caused by the length of the L-bracket.

Now, all that having been said, it occured to me that one might be able to eliminate the MO-3 mast alltogether.  What if you just measured up from the bottom of the 6BTV about 54" (that's the length of the MO-3 mobile mast) and attached (via screws or hose clamp) the L-bracket onto the 6BTV tubing right there.  Attach the appropriate resonator and, I believe, the transmitter would still see a resonant element on 12 or 17M without the added bulk (and wind loading) of the MO-3 mobile mast.  You could attach 2 L-brackets there, one with a 12M and one with a 17M resonator.  Electrically, it should work similar to those "spider" type multi-band mobile antennas.  I'd like to hear from anyone who experiments with this.  Have fun!  Terry, WØFM