Well, my apologies to W7SAC and KB3FEI, but I couldn't find the email from WD8DK, so I'll try to summarize his idea and describe how I'd attempt the modification.  WD8DK basically said he'd add the Hustler MO-3 mobile mast (with appropriate resonator) to the base of the 6BTV (everything here applies to the 4BTV and 5BTV as well).  With the 17M resonator attached, the transmitter would see a 17M resonant element (the Hustler MO-3 mobile mast and resonator) and temporarily ignore the rest of the 6BTV.  Same in the case of the 12M resonator.  Use a small stainless or aluminum L-shaped bracket (maybe 2"x4") at the base of the 6BTV with a hole in the longer leg to accomodate the 3/8x24 threaded stud on the bottom of the MO-3 mast.  This would allow the MO-3 and resonator to stand parallel to the 6BTV at (about) ground level, and 3-4 inches away from the 6BTV vertical radiator.  One or two stand-off supports could be made from small diameter PVC or plastic rod and fastened between the 6BTV and MO-3 with nylon cable ties, taking some of the stress off the L-bracket.  I could see the L-Bracket attached to the 6BTV via a couple of self-tapping stainless steel screws, but the screws would have to be removed to take the vertical down as they would protrude into the vertical's base pipe.  An alternate approach would be to secure the L-bracket to the base of the 6BTV using the supplied hose clamp that clamps the 6BTV to the pipe on its ground mounting bracket.  Just loosen the clamp, tuck the short leg of the L-bracket under it and re-tighten it.  Make sure you have a good, clean electrical contact there because that's now your feed point for the 12 and 17M Hustler mobile portion of the antenna.  You'll probably need to re-adjust the 12 and 17M stingers to compensate for the slightly longer lower mast caused by the length of the L-bracket.

Now, all that having been said, it occured to me that one might be able to eliminate the MO-3 mast alltogether.  What if you just measured up from the bottom of the 6BTV about 54" (that's the length of the MO-3 mobile mast) and attached (via screws or hose clamp) the L-bracket onto the 6BTV tubing right there.  Attach the appropriate resonator and, I believe, the transmitter would still see a resonant element on 12 or 17M without the added bulk (and wind loading) of the MO-3 mobile mast.  You could attach 2 L-brackets there, one with a 12M and one with a 17M resonator.  Electrically, it should work similar to those "spider" type multi-band mobile antennas.  I'd like to hear from anyone who experiments with this.  Have fun!  Terry, WØFM

OK, I found it!  It was WD8DK who added the Hustler 12 and 17M mobile resonators to his Hustler 6BTV.  See his post at:

      http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/248

I had emailed him shortly after reading his post and he sent me some additional details, but that email is not on this machine.  If you like, email me at w0fm@swbell.net and I will forward his installation details to you.  73,  Terry, WØFM

Posted somewhere around here is a comment by a fellow who added a Hustler or Hamstick mobile mast with 12M and/or 17M resonators to (I think) a Huslter 4BTV vertical.  He attached a small bracket near the feed point at the bottom of the BTV vertical and installed the mobile antenna about 3-4 inches away from and parallel to the 10M element of the 4BTV.  Claims to have good results with that approach (and it would work the same for the 5BTV and 6BTV).  That would ADD the extra band(s) rather than replace the 10 or 15M operation as retuning the traps would do.  Can't remember exactly where it was posted, but I'll look around, and, if I can locate it, will get the info to you.  Good luck.  Terry, WØFM

Here are a few more considerations that just came to mind:

1.  Remember that, starting with the lowest element (10M), each adjustment effects the rest.  Make sure 10M is on the money first, then move up to the next element.

2.  Check to see that you didn't accidently adjust a TRAP rather than the element lenght.  Each trap can be adjusted, BUT, I'd recommend adjusting a trap only as a last resort.  They should be on frequency 99% of the time as shipped from the factory.  A slight adjustment to a trap can throw everything off a mile!

3.  Don't hesitate to call the Hustler folks at NuTronics in Mineral Wells, TX (I think they're still down there).  They are very helpful, and, obviously, have pretty much seen it all before!  Good luck.  Terry, WØFM

I use a (second hand) Pelican case to tote my IC-706MkIIG, power supply, tuner and accessories down to the lake and back.  Not the cheapest item to buy when new, but they make great cases for ham use.  Properly configured, they'll survive the brutal airline cargo bays very well too.  If you know someone who does trade shows and conventions regularly, you can sometimes pick up used Pelican cases for free.  Don't overlook that source.  Mine was formerly used to haul electronic demo equipment to trade shows and was finally "decomissioned" when the product line changed.  I have ordered replacement foam twice, the second time after changing transceivers.  It is a simple task to layout and cut the new shapes.  Have fun!  73, Terry, WØFM  

If you are just comparing the 27 MHz antenna's performance on 10 Meters, it might slightly outperform the 10 Meter section of the 4BTV because it's probably more than the 1/4 wavelength the the 4BTV offers on 10.  If you are comparing ALL bands on the 4BTV to the 27MHz antenna's performance, they 4BTV should really win.  I'd suspect something wrong with the feedline or connection.  I used a 4BTV for years and it worked very well with just a 6 foot ground rod at the base.  When I added some radials it was quite a performer.  I am about to purchase the 6BTV as a result of my experience with the 4BTV.  Good luck.  73, Terry, WØFM

Whoa Pete!  An ØZØZZ card?  Way to go!  Seriously, I got the Plum price list several years ago and guess that I am just too lazy to go through that extra effort, albeit the most efficient approach.  I've always suspected that the extra buck was a plus, a demand or maybe even a "way of life" to some.  I normally send something extra to DXpeditions, probably because it makes me feel like I have helped them out.  I guess I should apply that same philosophy to our friend in Upper Lowerdovia! 73, Terry, WØFM

Thanks Steve.  I remember that from the old printed Call Books.  I have the RAC CD so if I look hard enough I'll probably find that info.  Based on what you say, I'm probably better off just sending IRC's.  Unfortunately, I have yet to find a US Post Office in the St. Louis area that stocks any kind of quantity of IRC's and those that do, don't know what they're for or how they should be stamped!  I can go in and request 25 IRC's and (when they finally figure out what they are) they can only come up with 3!  Oh well, maybe I can make them become IRC experts, whether they like it or not )  73, Terry, WØFM  

Having spent much of the long holiday weekend catching up on my QSL cards, it dawned on me that, in many foreign countries, a single US "Green Stamp" is worth MUCH more than the cost of return postage from that country.  But, how do you know which countries?  I have been enclosing two "green stamps" with QSL cards that I send to "new ones" that I really want and just a single "green stamp" to the others.  I have enjoyed an excellent percentage of returns on my QSL requests, but, like anyone else, I would like to control my costs wherever possible.  No need to send two bucks (or a $1.75 IRC) where one green stamp will do the trick. (Please don't start on me about eQSL....I am a dyed-in-the-wool conventional "snail mail" QSL kind of guy!)  Does anyone or any organization maintain a list of foreign countries where the present value of a single US dollar exceeds the cost of return postage from that country?    73, Terry, WØFM

Good point Steve.  I think I'll have to make do with whatever I can on the radials.  I can't fan them out or arrange them in a "conical" pattern due to the constraints of the property.  But, I CAN tune some for each band.  I never considered the wooden siding on the condo as acting like a piano's sound board!  But that's a very good probability. Daytime at the lake is for boating, skiing, fishing, etc so I would tend to operate more late at night when the neighbors above and below are sleeping (or trying to!).  So any noise generated by the screwdriver would certainly be an issue.  I have a scrap of 1/4" hard rubber floor mat that might make a decent buffer for the mount.  Thanks for the thought!  73, Terry, WØFM

That's not right.  The 706 has no tuner, I use the AT-11MP.  Sorry.

Thanks Jim.  I did fail to mention that the rig is an IC-706 with a fairly forgiving internal tuner.  I also have an LDG AT-11MP tuner for portable use.  Although, the DK3 should tune pretty flat by itself.  I've checked out the possibility of running a ground wire from the antenna straight down the side of the building to a ground rod.  IF (and that's a BIG "IF"!) I can pound a 6-8ft ground rod into the rocky surface, I plan to do that.  It will not replace my electrical ground, but, it can't hurt.  Thanks, Terry, WØFM

One of my winter projects swirling around in my head involves the installation of a DK3 Screwdriver antenna at my lake condo.  It appears to be my best bet for a low-visibility, 40-10 meter antenna that would be tunable from inside the condo.  The condo is on the third floor of a five story wood building and ground or roof  mounting is not an option (Little kids on the ground...critical eyes toward the roof!).  In this application, I envision the screwdriver antenna mounted, vertically, on an "arm" that would hold it out about 1-2 feet max from the outside wall of the wooden structure.  There is no metal, and little electrical wiring within this outside wall.  The base of the screwdriver would be about 25 feet above the ground and the rocky terrain falls away quickly to the water, which is only about 20 feet away from the building.  I can see where I can staple some "radials" along the trim boards beneath the antenna's position (possibly flat, multi-conductor rotor or computer cable) as a counterpoise.  My coax run will be less than 30 feet and my transmit power never more than 100 watts.  I assume that, somewhere along the way, I've missed or overlooked something that might make this a more effective setup.  I am seeking suggestions on improving on my plan in order to optimize this highly compromised antenna installation.  Any comments or ideas?  Thanks.  Terry, WØFM  

Hi Dave,  

In response to your question, my Hustler 4BTV "flagpole" worked quite well for my application. It even performed well before I added any buried radials to it, but I have very good soil conductivity.  In fact, I'm looking to put up a 6BTV, painted in camoflage colors, near the treeline in the back of my lot.  The 4,5 and 6BTV are all very similar except for the extra traps for the additional bands.  I think the one with 30 meters (6BTV) gets a bit shorter overall, and loses the capacitive hat.  That makes it a bit more stealthy as well.  Very nicely constructed antennas and mine worked great.  (Hint:  If you decided to paint the antenna, make sure you've done all your tuning FIRST!) 73,  Terry, WØFM

On my Caribbean cruise aboard Royal Carribean's Monarch of the Sea, the crew was just fantastic. Unfortuantley, I didn't take a radio along. At dinner one evening, I mentioned to the captain that I was a ham radio operator.  Surprisingly, so was he  (Norwegian call). Next moring, the captain's assistant called me and said that the captain would like me to visit the bridge and radio room.  I don't know how he even remembered my name.  They treated me like royalty!  I got lots of pictures of me with some great radio goodies (there was even a classic straight key among all the high-tech satellite and data gear!).  If you get the chance, "drop your call" on the captain!  You never know.  Have a great cruise! 73, Terry, WØFM