This doesn't address the original question but is directerd more to why QSK? I think the original responer covered the original question.  I may well look into a QSK-5.  I just wish they were a bit less expensive.  

If you do CW contesting QSK is a very valuable feature to have on an amp as I've found out lately in the CQWW DX and the ARRL 160M contests.  I just added an ALS-600 amp to my Ten Tec station. I was use to QSK when operating without an amp in previous contests.  Now without QSK, when you have a run going and you have even a one or two character delay in your switching you miss all or part of the first character of a responding station.  Was that an M or a W or a K or an N or an A or what?  I can shorten up the delay but that gives a lot of audible relay clicking in and out.  That's not a good substitute for smooth QSK operation.  

Of course, I agree that in normal rag chew operation and/or slow speed CW QSK is not normally necessary most of the time and can even be distracting. QSK can be quite helpful though if the other station just got a phone call and can't break you to let you know to stand by a minute or two.  Otherwise you continue your monolog unaware and he has missed all of that extremely important stuff you just sent him while he was talking on the land line!  

I use my ALS-600 amp with a Tec Tec Paragon which has no ALC input.  I normally use CW only so really have no use for feeding ALC back to the transceiver even if I could.  So what good is the ALC light and control on the front panel of the amp?  

I found a use for it.  It makes a dandy power out indicator.  I normally run my amp at 400 watts out so I set the front panel control at 4 and adjusted the rear panel control so that 400 watts out just causes the yellow ALC light to blink.  Now when I turn on the amp I set the ALC SET control to 4, turn the transceiver power control down, turn on the amp and start keying.  I advance the power out on the Paragon until the light just starts blinking.  I find this is quicker responding and easier to see than looking at the output meter on the amp.

I've found this is accurate on all bands.  At a setting of 1.5 on the ALC control the light blinks at 200 watts - just right for 30 meters in the USA.
 

I called Ameritron - 1.80 each.  I ordered two in case the AMP's meter lamp goes.  K3MOV's amp must have still been in warranty or he caught them at a generous moment. :-)

Puck

I recently bought a used ALS-600 with the ALS-600PS linear power supply.  Is there supposed to be a meter lamp in the power supply?  If so, what is it and where is it?  Is it built in to the meter?  Can it be replaced?  I've had the power supply cover off but I didn't see a way to access the lamp if there is indeed one in there.

Accorging to your e-mail you're talking about the screw that holds the damper to the damper arm.

I've never seen that happen unless it wasn't tight in the first place.  If it is properly tightened it would take years to work loose.  I've got bugs
from the 1910's and 20's on which the screw holding the damper disk was still tight.
Puck

By "damper screw" I assume you mean the screw on the right side of the frame which sets the position of the lever at rest.  One you have it set so the lever at rest just contacts the damper and have tightened down the lock nut it should hold its adjustment.  No need to adjust it daily!  The only thing that I can think of that might cause a need for daily adjustment is if somehow the bearings are too loose and the lever rocks around in them. They should be tight enough to prevent the lever from rocking up and down or rolling side to side.  If the bearings are too tight the lever will bind and if way too tight the "jeweled" bearings on your Presentation will BREAK.  I hope this helps.
Puck  

I recently bought a used ALS-600 amp with the old linear supply.  The power supply transformer tap had been changed to the medium voltage (no buck or boost) and I measured 64.0 volts from the PS with no load.  Changing the tap to the normal buck position (I have a 125 volt line) the voltage decreased to 60.3.  Ameritron had a mod (a parallel capacitor for the filter choke) which had been removed.  After installing that, the PS voltage dropped to 58.4 volts.  Doesn't that still seems a bit high for the MRF-150's which should be run at 48 to 50 volts?

Could other ALS-600 owners advise me what voltage they get from their power supplies with no load.  Does the voltage drop down to 50 volts or less under load. Even if it does I'd still be putting over 58 volts on the finals when in standby. Is that OK?

I don't want to smoke the FET's and have not yet fired up the amp until I can be assured this high, no load, voltage will not be a problem. Perhaps the best bet would be to build an outboard regulator with a zener and some 3055 pass transistors?    

I think Paul has the right idea. I'll replace that dumb connector!

"Dit bounce" is something you hear novice bug users talk about.  Once a bug is set up properly and the user has practiced enough to get his timing correct it is no longer an issue.  Dirty contacts on the other hand can cause scratchy dits and/or dahs so we must make sure our contacts are clean!

The first thing to adust is the lever rest screw.  This is the adjustment on the right side of the bug frame.  It should be adjusted so that the lever at rest just contacts the damper.  This assures that once the lever is released after sending dits it returns to rest against the damper and the vibrations are stopped or "dampened".  It this is not set correctly it can cause "dit bounce".

The next thing to set is the lever stop screw and the adjustable  dit contact.  The stop screw is on the left side of the frame and it's purpose is to stop the travel of the lever when the lever is pushed to the dit side. This sudden stop sets the pendulum into vibration causing the dits to be sent.  You must have enough travel of the lever to set up a strong vibration which yields clean, well formed dits.  The amount of travel here is a personal preference thing but I've found about 1/8" yields cleans dits which will be sustained for 10 to 20 dits or more before the vibrations die out.  Don't set this too close!
The adjustable dit contact is then adjusted to properly weight the dits. The dits and the spaces between them should be of similiar length.  This can be measured on a meter or you can simply listen to a string of dits sent by an electronic keyer and make your dits sound the same.

The setting of the spacing of the dah contacts and the tension adjustments of both dits and dahs is a matter of personal preference but don't go too light on the tension or you will find yourself sending mushy or heavy code.  I set my dah contacts about 1/16" with a fair amount of tension.  Practice sending a string of dahs until they sound uniform. Adjust the spacing and tension until they feel right for you.

When setting the speed weights make sure you set your dit speed to match the rate at which you plan on sending.  You may have heard guys sending with a dit rate of 30 WPM and a dah rate of 15 WPM. That's a bit tough to copy until you get into their swing!

I mentioned timing in the first sentence.  The timing of the transition from dits to dahs can give a beginner a fit.  Bad timing will yield your "dit bounce". If you change from dits to dahs too soon you cut the last dit short. If you wait too long your moving dit contact is on the way back and may throw in a short dit you don't want.  Don't despair! With practice the proper timing comes naturally.

Also, remember that bug sending is done with the wrist and arm and not just the fingers like a paddle/keyer.  If you try to send with a bug with only your fingers you will quickly throw in the towel because it's real tough to send good sounding code like that. Get that arm and wrist moving back and forth!

Bug sending is fun. Good luck.

I have a PT Cruiser and it has less places to put an antenna than your Concorde!  I put a Radio Shack dual band  on-the glass antenna on the left rear quarter panel window.  It only costs $40 and seems to hit the local repeaters about as well as the mag mount I had on my previous car.  The antenna is black and has a coil in it so it looks a bit like a cell phone antenna. It doesn't detract from the looks of the car at all.

I picked up a previously owned AT-11 at Dayton.  It looks like new but was missing the power cord.  I hate those little coaxial power connectors that everything seems to have these days!  No two seem to be alike.  I tried Radio Shack but they didn't have correct size  connector.  I e-mailed LDG but they were less than helpful saying they didn't sell the connectors or cords.  (Strange! - They make the tuner!)  They did tell me that the connector is a 5.5 x 2.5 mm.   Anyone know when I can get one of these power connectors?

Puck, W4PM