Thank you, Tim.
the question from the UK seems to have been retired (9 months old) so I couldn't reply to it; I did put a post in the Datong Archive group.

I know their Audio filters are highly regarded (I have two) and still in demand.

When people comment about this, it seems they miss the point a bit by suggesting a computer program. For that, you need a computer! This is self contained. And it has a membrane on top instead of individual keys. It has speed control, weight/detail settings and 4 memory banks.

Of course it is not "new". It is not "state-of-the-art". But it has its evolutionary place. I'm pretty sure it will find a home in the Datong Archive group as they didn't have one listed at all.

Thanks again and 73,
Paul

So many views and no replies - I figure in a few days I'll put this in the classified shipped to CONUSA for $85; need to list all the features from the manual. There is probably a Datong gear collector out there who would love to have it - or someone who wants to send CW via full size keyboard and need a computer.
73,
Paul

So many views and no replies - I figure in a few days I'll put this in the classified shipped to CONUSA for $85; need to list all the features from the manual. There is probably a Datong gear collector out there who would love to have it - or someone who wants to send CW via full size keyboard and need a computer.
73,
Paul

I think you are missing it - most likely the $331.99 J-38 came with a manual.

I have a Datong CW keyboard with manual. This allows keyboard cw without requiring a computer, smartphone, etc. It has the standard QWERTY key line up, plus some Pro-Signs and punctuation. There are four memories and auto-repeat. You can adjust the speed/weight/delay and speed goes from 5 to 33 wpm. There is a volume control for the monitor tone - which is too high for my hearing. The unit runs on batteries or DC supply. The top is a "membrane" cover rather than individual keys so nothing can spill in. There's an AF out but I couldn't get anything out of it. Long ago I might have googled that it was common for these units.  I want to sell it for a fair price for me and the buyer. Any idea what this is worth either to use or for the Collector?

Thank you and 73,
Paul
K7NHB

I have a Datong CW keyboard with manual. This allows keyboard cw without requiring a computer, smartphone, etc. It has the standard QWERTY key line up, plus some Pro-Signs and punctuation. There are four memories and auto-repeat. You can adjust the speed/weight/delay and speed goes from 5 to 33 wpm. There is a volume control for the monitor tone - which is too high for my hearing. The unit runs on batteries or DC supply. The top is a "membrane" cover rather than individual keys so nothing can spill in. There's an AF out but I couldn't get anything out of it. Long ago I might have googled that it was common for these units.  I want to sell it for a fair price for me and the buyer. Any idea what this is worth either to use or for the Collector?

Thank you and 73,
Paul
K7NHB

A lot of twin lead setups I've seen or read about are for home situations - permanent installations. But if camping, the QRP rig might be positioned anywhere from 15 feet to 45 feet from the antenna. I'm hoping to use a "generic" delta loop with twin lead to a 4:1 balun to a tuner - or maybe it will be cut for 20M and I'll take what else I can get.

But how do you manage the extra twin lead. I've been told not to lay it on the ground if I can help it and I've been told not to coil it. I suppose I could cut various lengths, like 15 ft and 25 ft, and connect them with some kind of plug or clip when longer lengths are needed.

What is the best way to deal with any extra length?

Thank you and 73,
Paul
K7NHB

A lot of twin lead setups I've seen or read about are for home situations - permanent installations. But if camping, the QRP rig might be positioned anywhere from 15 feet to 45 feet from the antenna. I'm hoping to use a "generic" delta loop with twin lead to a 4:1 balun to a tuner - or maybe it will be cut for 20M and I'll take what else I can get.

But how do you manage the extra twin lead. I've been told not to lay it on the ground if I can help it and I've been told not to coil it. I suppose I could cut various lengths, like 15 ft and 25 ft, and connect them with some kind of plug or clip when longer lengths are needed.

What is the best way to deal with any extra length?

Thank you and 73,
Paul
K7NHB

Thank you for those suggestions and insights. Because I'll have one pole, the dipole configuration is out. I understand the inverted V, but having a fan with lengths to cover each band is problematic. I guess I'm thinking that the delta loop would work better than say a 44 ft long wire and raised radials.

I am curious about that RG-174. It is tiny, tiny stuff. I have a jumper or two of it. But I can't imagine trying to attach a connector myself. Must be some heck of a reducer in the PL259?

Paul

Thank you for your suggestions. It's important to remember the restrictions/goals. This is a portable situation, trees can't be counted on and I'll probably have one 29 ft telescoping fiberglass mast. I'll want to work 40M - 10M at QRP levels.

It looks like I can attach the loop to the top of the pole and guy out the other two corners to make what triangle I can. If I put the feed point at the middle of the base line I can support that connection to the feed line by attaching connecting hardware to the pole.

I considered putting a 4:1 balun directly at the antenna and running coax to a tuner but in other posts it was suggested I'd experience too much loss. They said twin lead, even that cheap R.S. 300 ohm white stuff (used for FM antennas) was better than the 25ft run of coax. I'd run the twin lead to the 4:1 balun connected to the tuner (built into rig)

I'm wondering what the neighborhood of the best length of wire is? As the wire gets longer the horizontal base line gets closer to the ground? Assuming an equilateral triangle, I'm guessing there is some "sweet spot"  between leg length and base height above the ground.

The top of the loop would be about 29 ft. Maybe only 24 ft if the telescoping pole is too whippy (wimpy). going down to 25 ft. leave off a top section so the new top has a bigger diameter and the overall set up is a little more ridged.

The "tip" of the Jackite, in fact all sections, can be completely removed from the setup via a screw-off cap at the bottom.
I do plan to tape the wire up the pole. to the 29 ft level (tip removed, top covered with tape). From there, I have a hose clamped plastic ring through which I'd run the horizontal part of the "L" and attach the guyline horizontally to the house.

I picked 44 ft because I was told it was "tuner friendly", especially if I bring it to a 4:1 unun that's connected directly to the tuner located at the antenna base (coax to the house). I plan to operate mostly 40M - 10M and 100W or less.

If the antenna modeling guru's out there say I'll notice very little difference between 29 ft and 44 ft and the LDG tuner can match 29ft just as well on 40M - 10M, then I can do away with the "L" component. If I ran a "sloper" instead of the "L", I'd still have the whipping issue.

Paul

I may try a delta loop on my next qrp outing. From previous posts here an in other forums, It seems better, especially at QRP levels to run twin to a 4:1 balun at the rig rather than put the balun at the antenna feed point and run coax back.

In most diagrams I see the delta loop feed point at the top of the triangle. But in the field, it might be easier to deal with the feed line if it were on the lower horizontal run - say in the middle, where the transition hardware can be supported by the pole, or perhaps in attach the twin lead to one of the lower corners?

What difference would it make if the feed point was at the top of the triangle, in the center of the horizontal base, or in one lower corner?  And if were in the corner, would it matter if the twinlead left the antenna perpendicular to the loop or parallel with the loop.

If I attach at the top, it looks like the feed line would have to be between 50-75 ft in order to come down and away from the antenna. If the feed point were along the base, I might only need about 25-40 ft to put the rig the same distance away. I'm sure the length distance doesn't matter so much with signal loss using twinlead, but when I do get circumstances where the rig is closer, it is easier to deal with the sorter feed line length.

How would you do it?

Thank you and 73,
Paul

Thank you for your excellent suggestions.

Just to clarify a few points - though the Jackite is 30+ feet full length, the very tippy top is a thin small diameter shaft of fiberglass. I would not hang #18 off that. But I am not using that top piece. I stop one section down. And the to "L" of the inverted "L" is only about 15 feet long - not so heavy. The nylon covered Kevlar is also small but plenty strong with no stretch. So I understand the need for a shock absorber.

But I'm afraid any pulley/line situation could freeze up in our weather and become static - loose its purpose in life.  So I'm leaning towards a bungee cord ideal - like that used on camping tarp guy lines. That is - a fix line with slack that is taken up by a shorter bungee. If the bungee stretches too far (usually twice its unstretched length) the fixed line stops it from going further. I did see some fishing line in the garage. The 30-40 lb. test would be very light but I wonder about durable with a lot of UV exposure. The connection to the house would be up 20 ft - not accessible with my 16 ft ladder and a 20 ft fall if I try to reach it from the roof top directly. So I'll borrow/rent something to get me up there and I hope not to have to make a return visit for a long time. In fact, I maybe I could just use a longer tether and find suitable anchor on the roof top instead of the eave.

I wouldn't think you could zip the zip-ties tight enough to act as a belt; but I suppose it doesn't take much to enhance the standard locking. LDG sells their own mast - a bit heavier than Jackite - and it includes ratchet clamps for the joints. I bought the clamp set separatly and they fit all the Jackite joints except one. Later I found that Ace Hardware carries the same type of clamp so I'll see if they have a size that covers the diameter that the LDG set missed (the LDG set is for their own pole. I was just hoping it would work on Jackite and I didn't know about the Ace Hardware option}.

I also tape each joint with high quality (UV resistant) electrical tape. I wouldn't do that for field work but this is for a non-temporary situation.

Russ,
Were you able to drill through the fiberglass with a normal "craftsman" type drill?
Any special precautions or treatment of the sections after drilling?
73,
Paul

I'm putting a 29 ft Jackite (tapered telescoping fiberglass pole) up in the corner of the back yard where two fences come together. This would be for an inverted L longwire to operate at most 100W on 40 - 6M (if I can get on 6M - mostly 40M to 10M).

My first thought is to put a 44 ft long wire up it (29ft vertical, 15 ft horizontal). I could support the 15 ft piece with  some small kevlar line continuing to the house. But then I thought that instead of rigging up a weight and pulley mechanism at that house - so the #18 wire would be part of that support, I could just run the non-stretch kevlar directly from the house to the top of the pole. I could just string the extra 15 ft of insulated #18 antenna along the kevlar line.

The Jackite can get a bit if a whip in strong wind. The single line coming off horizontally from to top would stop that somewhat. My concern is, if the wind blows it towards the house and it comes back with a snap, it is abruptly stopped by the line.

But does the wind really work that way. If it was pushed towards the house, I'd think it would not abruptly be released to spring away.There is very little wind load at the top.

It is difficult to guy at the sides because that presents a downward force which eventually cause the sections to collapse. I do have each section taped and most have an additional plastic clamp to keep them from premature collapsiation.

Should I really be concerned about that one guy line?

Is there any benefit of going to the next "magic" length (52 or 58 ft). I understand that 44 ft is very tuner friendly. I'll probably run it through a 4:1 Unun.

Thank you,
Paul
K7NHB