Some TVs degauss themselves when first turned on. Has he tried turning the TV off then back on after the garage door is open?

How about using a compass to look for magnetic fields?

How about a beautiful wooden door?

A previous poster mentioned the Tokyo Hi Power HL-100Bdx. That's what you want, if you can find one. Others have said that it's not cost effective. That's probably true too. http://www.thp.co.jp/english/manual_download_e.html

Your tuner, balun, etc., could be heating up, changing impedence slightly.

Well, I don't have any knowledge of the card and the link to the loopback cable is broken, so here's some general musings that you may have already tried.

Check Device Manager in Windows Computer Management for problems in the Ports section.

Launch two instances of Hyperterminal, each attached to a different Com Port, and use a null modem cable to connect the two Com Ports. Try setting both Hyperterminals for no flow control.

With no flow control, your null modem cable can consist of TXD crossed to RXD and ground connected through, three wires. If you haven't discovered them, RJ45 adaptors are the world's coolest cable building invention ever - Link provided for picture only, not site endorsement: http://www.pccables.com/01910.htm. Available in DB9, DB25,male & female. (Get a de-pinning tool, too)

Does your computer have a built-in Com Port. Involve it in the test.

As above but use two computers, if you've got them.

Reinstall Windows. (Just kidding!)

I use xmlog for general logging and n1mm for contests. Both are freeware.

Big difference between a bug, a keyer, and a keyboard.

I don't like keyboard generated CW. As you said, it doesn't seem like real code. Bugs and keyers still require skill and coordination beyond typing. Just listen to me trying to send and you'll quickly hear that I seem to lack that coordination! <smile>

Recall Pro has a FIFO loop option. I don't know if the ReCall (non-pro) version has that feature or not. Both have free trial downloads.

http://www.sagebrush.com

No suggestions, no useful information, just a question: WHY?

That might be a good question to pose at http://foxtango.org/.

I've decided to build AA5TB's tuner and give the end fed dipole a shot. I'll let you all know how it works out.

http://www.aa5tb.com/coupler2.html
http://www.aa5tb.com/efha.html

Elecraft says that the range of the KX1 tuner is limited and will not tune a high Z antenna such as an end fed dipole.

It looks like the tuner is an L network, so I'm wondering if anyone has tried connecting an external capacitor across the antenna connector to enable the tuner to match an end fed dipole.

How about working with your neighbor to identify which lights are the problem. If the noise turns out to be caused by cheap CFLs, buy him some good ones. Maybe a cheap dimmer switch? Again, buy him a new one.

Maybe you can keep your neighbor happy and cure the noise for just a few bucks.

As I recall, the ham lisense was done away with and replaced with the incentive licensing program back in the 60's. Both dictionaries and amateur radio were impacted.

It sounds llike your problem is solved, but if you ever need a good networking reference book, let me recommend "Ethernet: The Definitive Guide" by Charles E Spurgeon.

I've used a water soluble plumber's soldering paste from Home Depot for some terribly tarnished wires, including the wire running from my truck battery to my camper, which had corroded completely through underneath the truck and was a lovely shade of green far up under the wire insulation.

 I don't know the drawbacks, but it sure makes a nice solder joint when nothing else has worked for me.

Obviously, this approach is for wire only, don't use near circuitry. I change the tip of my soldering gun before returning to normal electronics work and rosin core solder.