I recommend either a commercial trapped dipole or a fan dipole.  If you use good quality coax, losses in 250 feet at the frequencies you want to use (160M-40M) should be low.

Dick  AD4U

"Eimac hasn't built a 3-500Z in decades.  The tubes used in the AL-80B aren't Eimacs, they're 3-500ZGs (graphite anode) built elsewhere.

Philips (now Richardson) specs the Amperex 3-500ZG quite differently.  If you refer to the Amperex data sheet, (lower section of page 3) they list OPERATING CONDITIONS as 3000Vdc Ep, and 770mA peak anode current, for 1420W peak output power (single tube): http://www.mhzelectronics.com/ebay/manuals/amperex_3-500z_tube_datasheet.pdf

I have no idea why people still refer to Eimac data sheets that are 40 years old, when Eimac doesn't manufacture this tube. "


On page 3 of the Amprex 3-500ZG tube data sheets that you linked us to, the maximum peak plate current of 770 mA is for a single tube in an AUDIO AMPLIFIER or a MODULATOR.  

If you refer to page 2 of the Amprex 3-500ZG tube data sheet and look under LINEAR AMPLIFIER service, the ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM plate current of the Amprex 3-500ZG tube in LINEAR AMPLIFIER service is 350 mA.

Dick  AD4U

I probably should keep my mouth shut or my fingers off the keyboard.  We beat this subject (and each other) to death several months ago.  I am not suggesting that an AL-80B amp will not put out 1000 watts PEP on some bands.  It will.

I have the EIMAC data sheet for their 3-500Z tube in front of me.  Assuming the tube is properly cooled per EIMAC's specs (not so in the AL-80 series of amps) the issue here has absolutely nothing to do with exceeding the tube's plate dissipation rating of 500 watts CCS.  IMO the issue is exceeding EIMAC's published maximum (do not exceed under any circumstances) plate current rating of 400 mA per tube.  

NO WHERE in the EIMAC data sheet on their 3-500Z tube is it stated that it is OK to run the tube at 500-600 mA in SSB service.  Doing so will (may) operate the tube out of its linear region.  This will (may) result in a "dirty" signal.  After all linear amps are called LINEAR amps for a reason.

As previously posted the best way to make the  AL-80 series of  amps put out 1000 watts and operate within EIMAC's published specs is to up the plate voltate to 4000V as recommended in the EIMAC data sheet.  Then if the tube is operated at the maximum 400 mA as published in the EIMAC data sheet, the PEP input will be 1600 watts and the PEP output will be an honest and clean 1000 watts.

Dick  AD4U

I also recommend the Kenwood TS-830S.  I am a boat anchor HAM.  Over the years I have accumulated around 40 different rigs (separates and transceivers) from the early 1960's to the mid 1980's, including (but not limited to) Yaesus, Kenwoods, ICOMs, Drakes and Collins.  My TS-830S has the optional cascaded INRAD SSB and CW filters, so it may (or may not) work a little better than a standard one.

IMO my TS-830S exceeds the performance of all the other rigs in my boat anchor collection.  It is rock stable, the NB works great, and it has never given one second's trouble.  Also since it has tube finals and an adjustable pi-net output, it can operate WITHOUT a "tuner" into any decent antenna.

In actual on-the-air performance (not in lab tests) I think it is just as good as any of the modern high dollar rigs.

Dick  AD4U

Another option is trying to find a good used Alpha 77DX which will actually cost less than most if not all of the amps you mentioned.  Of course the 77DX is manual tune, which will (but should not) baffle some ops.  It covers 160 meters and 3-30 MHz continuous.  The HV filter cap is oil filled and should last a life time.  It will LOAF at the legal limit in ANY mode.  EIMAC 8877 tubes are still available. But then if you get an amp with a good EIMAC 8877 and if you don't abuse it, it will probably last a life time.  

It is probably the best HAM amp ever made.

Dick  AD4U

Obviously the best way to deal with power line noise is to have the power company eliminate it.  However this demo is amazing.  Anyone with a noise problem who looks at this video will at least consider a TT Eagle.  Simply amazing NB.

Dick  AD4U

Normally there are not any yellow plastic knob-like slugs or knobs provided with or on a Bird 43.  Can you post a picture?

Dick  AD4U

This is exactly what I did last time.  I called a locally based national shipping company.  It took a while but the shipping company called me back that one ot their tractor-trailers was coming back from the mid west to the south east almost empty.  They brought my tower around 1000 miles to their terminal which is 35 miles away.  I picked it up at their terminal and brought it home on a 18 foot trailer that I borrowed.

Shipping costs were around 20% of what I would have paid other wise.  Just do not be in a BIG hurry.

Dick  AD4U

I see after 4 days nobody has responded, so I will take a stab.  First understand that I have never used any of the 1/2 wave radial-less verticals, so what I am about to post is strictly my opinion.

I seriously doubt if ANY of the 1/2 wave so called radial-less verticals will out perform ANY 1/4 wavelength ground mounted vertical with a decent radial system.  If they did, then everybody would own one.

Of course you can achieve a good SWR and make contacts with just about any antenna that will take and radiate RF, but when compared to a "good" antenna, the results will be poor.

Dick  AD4U

The S-38 receiver IS "one of those".  No power transformer.  At least mine does not have one.

Dick  AD4U

For years many HAMs who participate in "local" nets especially on 75M have put a wire under their half wave dipole.  Their belief is that if the wire is of proper length and properly spaced under the dipole it will act kinda like a 2 element yagi pointed straight up. 

I do not know about the theory of such an antenna, but those who use them seem to have stronger LOCAL signals than those who do not - everything else being equal.

Dick  AD4U

Ditto - Mine was "modified" over 10 years ago and still going strong.  You did not do something right.

Dick  AD4U

Atlas made a 160M solid state monobander.  RARE but it was made.

Dick  AD4U

75 watts is enough power to drive an SB-200 to full output of 500-600 watts on SSB and CW.  When operating from a stiff 240V power source an SB-200 should have 2400V high voltage no load and around 2100V at rated input.  This is normal "sag" in the HV.

A properly operating SB-200 should show 500mA plate current at max rated drive with 500-600 watts output on bands up through 15M.  10M may show a bit less.  Grid current on all bands should stay in the white area of the meter. 

Anything less and you are looking at several possibilities.  We will assume the amp is wired correctly and that no components have failed.

The first is probably soft tubes.  The second can be improper input matching.  A 1:1 input SWR was not nearly as important when this amp was designed as it is today.  Another possibility may be improper tuning on your part or a wattmeter that is not very accurate.

As others have posted and as you have promised............get a dummy load.  It will make other hams happier and it will make your tuning and trouble shooting much easier.

Dick  AD4U

Shipping on these heavy batteries can cost more than the battery.  I found 12V 8AHr gel cell batteries at Tractor Supply for $21.95 a year or so ago.  They may cost a little more today.  The ones I bought were made in China, but they are still working OK after two years.

At most every hamfest I attend several people are selling Yausa 12V 7AHr "pulls" for an asking price of $10.00.

Dick  AD4U