I wondered about that, too.  Will the CW tone generated by a sound card and fed through an interface to the rig "sound the same" at the receiving end?  I have tried it for a few qso's, just for fun, and when monitoring my own transmission, it sounds fine.  But I am wondering if there are any implications at the receiving end?  Interesting thought. 

I will stick to my old keyer and Bencher paddle for generating cw.  I do find the sound card decoder useful for zero beating and logging, but my ears do a much, much better job of copying cw. 

Remember, any cw is better than no cw.

Regards,

Doug VE3XDB/VE3IID

I forgot to mention that Fldigi is very easy to set up for the Signalink USB, and is also easy to set up for PSK31 and CW.  There are both Windows and Linux versions of the program.  I am running it on Debian Linux Squeeze (6.0) 
 
Regards,

Doug VE3XDB/VE3IID

Fldigi will allow one to both encode and decode CW.  My rig is set for 600Hz sidetone, and it is easy to set up Fldigi for 600Hz.  Another trick that I use is to operate split - for example, if you set VFO A at 7.020.000 CW, VFO B is set at 7.019.400 USB.  That way, the tx/rx match is perfect.  My rig (Kenwood TS-570D/G) doesn't have a truly dual VFO, so both A and B must be adjusted when frequency is changed.     

I don't use the system to decode (my ears do a much better job), but here are the benefits that I do find:
1. It is very easy to zero beat a station using the waterfall;
2. I use the Fldigi logging program, so it is very easy to log the qso.  Paper and pencil not required, and not much typing either;
3. To use the paddle and external keyer (which I normally do), all one must do is turn off the split (but make sure you on on the correct VFO);
4.  If you don't have a memory keyer, Fldigi does a great job as a memory keyer.

Hope this helps.

Doug VE3XDB/VE3IID

Hello,

With no optional filters installed, the 440 has 2 available filter slots.  I don't work SSB, so I purchased 2 cw filters, the YK88C (500 Hz) and the YK88CN (270 Hz).  Setup of this combination of filters is described in the TS440 instruction manual.  This setup worked very well for CW.  In my current rig (Kenwood TS-570D/G) I have an Inrad 400 Hz filter, and it does a good job. 

Someone previously mentioned the SCAF1 filter.  With another 440 (I have had 3-4 of them in my hamming career) I used the SCAF1.  If you learn to use it correctly, it is also a very good filter.  Takes all the noise, hash and adjacent qrm away.  But it is an AF filter, so all the crud comes through all stages of your radio.  The IF filters clean things up earlier in the chain, and it makes for a better result. 

My recommendation would be a 400 Hz Inrad filter to start, then see if you need the narrower filter as well.  The 400 should suit you just fine for casual operating, DX and even some contesting. 

Best regards,

Doug VE3XDB

Mick,

I have the same problem using my Asus eeePC running Windows XP.  However, the problem is intermittent.  Usually, if I try again, it works.  Sometimes, I have to shut everything down and reboot.  

I think the order in which I power up my station has an impact.  It seems to work best for me if I turn on the Signalink USB before turning on the computer.  It seems to recognize the Signalink and its setting better this way.    

Anyway, it does work.  Hope you can get it to work for you.

Best regards,

Doug VE3XDB

Hi Ken,

I have an orignal Asus eeePC - the model 701.  I increased the RAM to 2G, and installed Windows XP after running the original Xandros Linux os for several months.  I use this computer for PSK, but it would have lots of horsepower to run logging and other programs.  It has an SD slot, and I put an 8GB SD card in the slot, so there is plenty of storage space.  I also hooked up an old NEC LCD monitor, a real keyboard and a real mouse.  Now, it's a real PC!  (You can see my station on eHam.net or QRZ.com - the computer is sitting on top of the power supply at the very left edge of the picture.  It is very inconspicuous).  

Anyway, I know they were available at clearance prices a few months ago.  If you can find one, it might be an inexpensive option to meet your limited ham shack needs.

Regards,

Doug VE3XDB

Forgot to mention - here is a good page that does a credible job describing how a switching supply works, and comparing it to a linear supply:  

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

A brief description of how a linear supply works can be found here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply#Linear_power_supply

Best regards,

Doug VE3XDB

Well, if switching power supplies are good enough for AD5X, WB2WIK and AA4PB, then they are certainly good enough for me!  

Early in my ham career, I used the Kenwood PS-50 and an Astron RS-20A.  They are both linear supplies, and worked fine.  

Then I purchased a Samlex 1223 switching supply.  It was good, but it was an early production model, and was prone to a bit of noise.  I modified the supply based on simple modifications described on the internet, and after that the supply was quiet.  

For the past 5 years or so, I have used an Astron SS-30 switching power supply, and also have an MFJ-4125 switching supply.  They are both great, very reliable, and very RF quiet, although the fan on the MFJ is a bit noisy.  

Given the state of modern design, I don't think I would hesitate to use a switching supply with a good reputation.  Astron, Samlex and the MFJ supplies are all very good.

Best of luck and best regards,

Doug VE3XDB

One last post on this topic....

A Yahoo! group has been operating for several years, specifically for users of the Signalink.  The URL of the group is:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TigertronicsSignaLink/

Here is one of the threads that discussed this specific issue:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TigertronicsSignaLink/message/947

You may wish to join this group.

Best regards,

Doug VE3XDB

Here is a posting from last year on the same topic:

http://www.eham.net/forums/Digital/5212

Regards,

Doug VE3XDB

This is a well known and common problem when using the combination of Digipan and the Signalink USB.  The default setting.  The default sample rate of 11024 or whatever it is needs to be changed.  Here is how to change it:

Configure
Soundcard
Change Samplerate, Hz at the bottom of the dialog box to a new value. I use 10000 and it works fine.

You should now be fine.

Regards,

Doug VE3XDB

If it's a Kenwood, and the antenna tuner connects with a molex connector with 2 rows of 3, try connecting a wire between the middle connection of both rows.  This "fools" the radio into thinking that there is an external antenna tuner present, and when you hit the tune button, the radio puts out about 8 watts.  Works great on my TS-570.  Have been running it this way for several years, and this solution provides plenty of RF for my remotely mounted SGC-237.  

Best regards,

Doug VE3XDB

How about a fan dipole?  Try building a dipole, tuned up for the desired frequency on 40 meters.  Cut it long to start, and trim to resonance.  Then, figure out the ratio of the length to frequency.  Using that ratio, cut the bottom radiator at the appropriate spot, leaving a 1" gap along the length of the twin lead.  

If you cut it for 40 and 20 meters, you should also be able to work 15 meters.  

Have fun!

Best regards,

Doug VE3XDB

I agree with WB2WIK - an altas is an excellent starting point.  I try to engage people by asking questions, most often about the geography in the area, their other hobbies, etc.  If they tell me something interesting, I follow it up with an invitation to provide more detail.  "Ur new K3 sounds FB hr.  Looks like a neat rig.  Tell me more about it."  

Someone else mentioned slowing down.  This works, too.  I usually work 25-30wpm, but if want a ragchew, I call CQ at about 18-20wpm.  

More QSO's = more variety.  Stay on the air!

Best regards,

Doug VE3XDB  

At least one of the three solutions will deal with those wascally wabbits:  
1. Ignore them.
2. Change frequency.
3. Turn off the rig.  

Another option is CW or digital modes - few problems of this nature using these modes.  

And remember two very important rules of life:
1. Don't sweat the small stuff.
2. It is all small stuff.

Have fun!  

Doug VE3XDB