or a 16 ohm?

Sweet!

It is a 1 Megohm resistor -- typical of most (all?) VTVM's. Added to the 10 Megohm internal divider network this makes for 11 Megohm input impedence in DC mode (vs. 10 Megohm in AC).

See: http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/hickok/209a/ for the manual (Section 3.4 a on page 10).

Wouldn't a DPDT switch in the line to the keyer been an easier way to reverse it?

QSK:

As Question: Can you hear me between your signals and if so can I break in on your transmission?  
or
As Answer: I can hear you between my signals; break in on my transmission.  

I knew basicly what it was (as in full break-in QSK..., where you are listening between your dits & dats) but I had to look up the standard definition.

See this web page for pictures of receptacles: http://www.evenheat-kiln.com/technical/recept/recept.htm

A NEMA 6-15R (240V/15A) has both slots horizontal vs one T shaped. Also, you can buy 120/15, 120/20, 240/15, and 240/20 as duplex receptacles, the first being the "regular" ones around the house and the second being commom in commercial buildings and sometimes in residential construction, especially kitchens, too. If you have a 20A (12 AWG copper) circuit already, you could install/have installed a 120V/20A duplex receptacle -- just do not run much else on the circuit when the amp is in use!

The 240/30 is a commom plug for *large* window/thru wall air conditioners, the 240/50 is typical of the plug/receptacles used for arc welders.

The "crows-foot" ones at the botton are actually mislabeled, they are 120/240V 30A & 50A, with a (grounded) neutral but WITHOUT a grounding terminal, and used to be used for electric dryers/ovens/cooktops and for ranges (cooktop+oven) respectively. Now 4 terminal plugs, similar in size are used to add a U shaped grounding terminal.

Last, (not shown) there is a 120V/30A plug, similar to the 240V/50A but, one slot is L shaped.

Heres a page showing all the straight blade configurations, there are about as many twist-lock NEMA styles too, including dulplex 15A & 20A styles:

http://www.leviton.com/sections/techsupp/techindx.htm

Actually, if one prong is turned is a 120V/20A (or, if the other a 240V/20A) plug vs. a standard 120V/15A or a 240V/15A (where both are turned so they are coplaner)

for a high powered 120V amp a 120V/20A plug would be expected. A 120V/20A recepticle will have a regular and a T shaped slot so either 15A or 20A plug fits it. The same for a 240V/20A but the not T slot is horiz not vertical -- does that make sense?

Do you have a 120V/20A circuit? If so you could change out the recepticle, though you'd not want to run anything more substantial than an electric clock or a night light.

From one who's never used a bug: do you have the weight on the bug adjusted right for higher speed dit's? If so you might try a keyer and paddles instead too, as you won't have to form your own dah's.

Actually it's 240V not 220V in the USA/Canada (2*120V), unless you take your service at 120/208V 3phase wye -- common for commercial service, *very* unusual for residential [note 208=120*sqrt(3) same ratio as 277/480V where 277 is used for non incandesent lighting loads to save copper costs], but I digress. You should always expect the line voltage to be within +10%/-15% (102 - 132V or 204-264V) and in normal circumstances (e.g. not during severe summer heatwaves in the early evening) +/-5% or so of nominal at your service entrance (114-126V or 228-252V). If you are lower your utility may have a problem or may need to change a transformer tap.

Retapping the Amp for 110V vs 120V will raise all the secondary voltages about 9%, beware particularly of the PA tube filiment voltages running too high! It won't do anything for the tranient voltage drop the computer may be seeing though.  

In any case 240V would be superior to 120V as the voltage drop on the wiring will be half, and either one requires only 2 wires (+ grounding conductor) so wire cost is nominally identical. I say nominaly, for while a 12AWG 20A/240V circuit would be fine (there is NO value in running a 15A 240V circuit vs 20A even though it would probably sufice), you might, if the run is long want to use *larger* than 12AWG for a *dedicated* 20A/120V circuit, e.g. 10AWG, to reduce the drop.

If the circuit is truely awkward to have run you might (assuming only the computer and the amp and some incidential loads (e.g desklamp) are on the circuit) you might look at a UPS for the computer and/or a new computer PS as it may have problems. I would NOT run even a small bar/dorm room sized 'frig on the circuit, the second computer may be alright though it is still another couple hundred watts at somthing less than unity power factor (measure AC voltage and current it's the VA's that matters not the real power (watts) because even the *reactive* current causes voltage drop, though it does no work and you are not paying for it (at least residentially -- commercially they often ding you for low power factor and for peak demand in addition to kW-hrs used).
   

"...when the key is just a bit too long." There's one in every crowd... (wish I'd though of it first though).

Interesting stuff/history, thanks.

A simple question I hope: What is the purpose of the shorting switch/bar or contact closer on a J-38 of similar key?

WB2WIK: "Wireless" is registered here as WA8KJP, and a check of the FCC database shows him to be Richard, of Michigan, holding an Advanced ticket, so he should be as good (or as bad <grin>) a source of info as anyone else w/ a callsign associated w/ their e-Ham account, though I would agree it would be easier if he used his call as his user name.

As for preferred choice of tubes and country of origin I can offer no help, so will defer to others, no doubt wiser than I.

73

de KB1LKR -- Steve

"GE OM = Have beer, do u?" That is TOO funny! I'm still studying for the Element 1 test, and own no CW gear whatsoever yet, but I can imagine having a script in mind, only to have the QSO ad lib instead!

It's stories like yours that encourage me to keep studying. Thanks.

Also WB2WIK (/6? <grin>), and all, thanks for the other tips (CW and otherwise in the various forums), it'll be good when my turn comes.

73

de Steve - KB1LKR

Thanks! Good info on an "it depends" kind of question.

73

Thanks. Makes sense. If 20m is the king of DX than are either 30m (power limits noted) or 15m notably better than 40m or 12m in terms of time per day or days/year or distance? I guess asked another way, what would be (in general) the second best after 20m for DX?

Just curious, what was the rationale of 80, 40, 15, 10m but not 20m for Tech+? Seems odd (interesting?) one band (well 2 counting 160m, but ignoring the WARC bands still) would be excluded. I'm not arguing that it should be otherwise mind you, just wondering.