From my experience, the US rep was/is very aloof.  It literally took waving a wad of hundreds at him at Dayton to get him out of the lawn chair he was planted in.  Have you tried emailing Krassy directly? K1LZ@hfpower.com

"......foreign stations are sending Call, 599, k. Does the k represent 1kw?......"

Yes.

Seems to be a popular combo, Scott.  I also use a 756 P3.  As you know, the ACC1 DIN plug on the back appears to have all the necessary inputs for FSK and AFSK.  It would be nice if Logger and MMTTY had some hookup schematics and interface suggestions, but I've been unsuccessful in finding any.  I suppose it would be advantageous to use isolation transformers or some optical device between the PC and rig.  Thanks for the advice.  Tom K3GM

Is there a combination of logging software, RTTY software, and interface that's a standard that every good contest station uses?  I would prefer N1MM Logger as the logging software.

The contest was a lot of fun and at times the bands were thick with RTTY signals.

..remember Steve that when you operate from a rare grid, prople will be looking for you if they know you're going to be on and will stop and take time to work a very weak signal just above the noise.  If you rover from a an "everyday" grid, you're just another weak signal, and a lot of guys won't bother to take the time to get you in the log.

I'd say you did pretty good for your first trip out, Steve.  I thought the participation was way down this year at least up here in New England.  I've lived and operated many times from both FN20 and FM29 and though it been years ago, thought the activity down there was much higher.  They also have a built-in user base there with a high level of participation from the Pack Rats VHF club located in the Philly area.

There are a couple of good grids down your way; FM27, FM26, FM25, and FM13.  I think they are the ones you ought to concentrate on.  They probably jumped on you from FM29 only because you were fresh meat, and because of the "4" in your call.  That's a heavily populated grid which includes the southern half of Philadelphia and the densely populated south Jersey.

If you do it again for the June QSO party, I think you will see a lot more activity.  In June (as well as September contest) you stand a better chance of getting atmospheric enhancement and could actually work into southern New England by beaming over the water into NY, CT, RI, and the Cape.  Yesterday (1/20) there was nothing happening enhancement-wise with temps in the upper teens, and a stiff wind blowing.

The other thing you need to do is "advertise" your plans with a fairly firm schedule and frequency ahead of time to clubs like the Pack Rats, N.E.W.S. and other VHF groups, along with the various web sites.  If you make your presence known, stations will be gunning for you.

I have a log from the VHF Sweepstakes with 1 dupe in it.  The guy called me twice, and I accidentally entered him as a K1 instead of a W1.  So I corrected the Cabrillo log changing his earlier entry to his correct call , and I now have a dupe.

Is there a convention as to which contact comes out, or should I leave the dupe in?  I don't think I've  ever submitted a log with an obvious dupe in it.
 

I'd go for an modified AM-6154.  These are 1980's vintage FAA amplifiers. With only a few hours of work, and almost no extra parts, they are capable of over 400 watts output on 144 MHz SSB/CW with about 10 watts of exciter input. It uses either an Eimac 8930 or an Amperex DX-393 tetrode tube. Most are pulls from FAA installations, but occasionally you can find one still sealed in its original airtight plastic bag.  I checked Fair Radio, and they're going going for $300.  You'll also frequently find them on eBay, and at hamfests.

I use the Emtron DX-1d with my Icom 756 P3, and employ the Ameritron buffer.  Although I was told by Emtron that I could use a direct connection, I didn't want to take any chances with the radio.  The little Ameritron box came with cables for Icom radios.  I remember being asked which radio it was intended for when I ordered it.  The box runs on +12V, and I have it wired directly into my supply bus which runs across the back of my desk.

They're a great bunch of guys up there in Salem, and so is the crew in Delaware.  I was just there a couple of weeks ago.

Are you building? Here's some cheap Russian alternatives that shouldn't be overlooked.

GI-7B 2400V (350W plate) a pair can be run for 1KW output at 2400V@.7A.  Cost about $30 each. You can make your own cheap sockets by just drilling a hole. Heater is only 12V, 2A each DC.

GI-46B bigger version of the GI-7B  good for about 600W each or 1200W amp.  Run a pair at 2400V, .8-.85A (looks like a 450W dissipation tube or a
ceramic 3-500Z) Heater is 12V 2.5A each DC. Tubes ~$39 each.

GS-31B 100W dissipation like a ceramic 3-1000.  Run 2.5-3KV .8-.9A. Tube ~$90 each. 12V dc heater.

GS-35B - The big boy. Run 2500-4KV 1Amp
You can get 2+KW output. A bigger Russian 8877. 12VDC, 4A heater.  Cost about $90-130

3CX800 - I don't like this tube.  It's really a 3CX400 with a bigger anode pushed past the laws of physics.  If you overdrive a pair of these tubes past 50W just order a new pair.  100W will strip the oxide off the cathode. Very expensive. (before you say it....ya, I know it's used in the Alpha's.....) Who's up for designing the protection circuitry that comes with the Alpha?

Food for thought.....

Chris,

I'd recommend that you download a copy of VHFCONT.  It's a freeware program specifically for VHF contests.  It's simple, but effective, and you can get logging on it almost immediately as there's practically no learning curve.  It will keep track of all the grids you work.

In last year's contest, there was a spectacular opening at the start of the contest on 6 meters that lasted for hours, and a smaller one on 2.  Good luck, and have fun. K3GM

I'd get 5 or 6 feet of that nice rubbery 600V "cord" off the bulk reel at Home Depot and the appropriate NEMA socket and plug for the maximum current you're wired for. You don't have to go for the high dollar twist lock plugs.  A standard NEMA plug and socket may cost you 7 or 8 dollars apiece.

Can you imagine the size of the filament transformer...?