Back in the 70's I was helping my Dad install a new TV Antenna on our house.  During the aiming process he was inside the house watching the picture and I was rotating the mast.  I stopped when he said we were aimed for the best picture.  I looked up and saw that the antenna was pointed directly at the cable drop box rather than at the transmitter site which was 180 degress away.  I called the cable company to tell them they had a major RF leak at the pole.  Right off the bat they accused us of stealing cable programming.  I quickly pointed out that if I was getting enough signal for a city grade picture from 60 feet away that they were in violation of FCC regulations.  They responded by quickly fixing the problem at the drop box and not pressing the cable theft charges.

To top it off my RFI problems practically went away.

73,
Stuart
WB6RXG

When you call CQ or are even just listening for activity on 10 meters start at 28.400.  Quite a few people are sitting there waiting for something to happen.

The band isn't great right now but openings do happen fairly often and many are simply missed because nobody is transmitting.  Everybody is sitting there listening.  So make some noise and see who calls you back.

It's a lot of fun when it does open.

73,
Stuart
WB6RXG

Or, you could build one of these.

http://theleggios.net/wb2hol/projects/rdf/tape_bm.htm

http://www.open-circuit.co.uk/tape.php

Fold the elements back and stuff it in a small tube or canvas bag for transport.

73,
Stuart
WB6RXG

I thought this one was pretty slick and it looks just like what you are asking for.  It's a dual bander but could easily be made into a monobander.

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/05/collapsible_fabric_yagi_antenna.html#more

73,
Stuart
WB6RXG

Here are the directions from my copy of the instructions with additional clarifying notes.

1. Enter VFO mode.  Set the frequency, tone and shift accordingly.
   VFO Mode: Press the V/M (MW) key until the LCD display doesn't show "M" or "C".

2. Press and HOLD the "F" key, then press the V/M (MW) key.
   In other words press both keys together starting with the "F" key.

3. The "M" and the memory channel number will start flashing in the LCD display.

4. Press either the "UP" or "DOWN" key to select the desired memory channel.

5. Press the "V/M (MW)" key again.  This will write the info from the VFO into
   the memory channel.


I also have a copy of the manual in pdf format that I can send you by e-mail if you wish.  It's a little different and a lot larger making is easier to read.


73,
Stuart
WB6RXG

Thanks for clarifying that.  

I've never actually copied a DX station on CW before and was suprised when I did.  My copy speed must be improving.  He wasn't making any contacts so there wasn't a pile up to listen for.

73,
Stuart
WB6RXG

I typoed that.  I mean't QSX 25.

Stuart

I've heard TX4T on 1.832 Mhz the last two nights at around 10:30pm PST (0630 GMT/UTC) at S9+ on my 80 ft vertical and TS-2000.  The first night he was sending CQ TX4T QRX 25.  On the second night he was sending CQ EU TX4T QRX 25 EU K.

I haven't made a CW contact in over 30 years due to being inactive for most of that time and I've never been a DX chaser.

My question is what did he mean by QRX 25, is he listening 2.5 khz up, 25 khz up or on 1.825?

Thanks,
Stuart
WB6RXG

WB4IUY Said:
"I've been flying RC since around '75, and love it. I used to fly on 6m, but have found the newer gear (first on AM, then FM, and now using spread spectrum up on 2.4 ghz) to be much more dependable."

I started flying r/c in 1970.  My first radio was a four channel Citizenship that I bought used for $25.00 and got repaired for abotu $40.00.  It looks like you've got two of them in your collection.  The very thick red anodized aluminum case required large hands to hold it securely while flying.  

Thanks for the photos, they took me way back in time.

Still flying after all these years!

73,
Stuart
WB6RXG

Being a Guitar (and a little Banjo) player I would think that Lacquer would be ok.  I have instruments that are over 30 years old that have not become sticky where my fingers are on them.  

I would think that polyurethane would be ok also.

Enamels, epoxy and latex are a no go.

For a more natural looking oiled finish then look at BLO (boiled linseed oil) which is used a lot on fretboards.

Maybe someone else will have some info also.

73,
Stuart

The J-38 should have two binding posts at the rear of the key.  One binding post is connected to the moving parts of the key such as the arm and pivot points.  Find this binding post with an VOM set to ohms.  That binding post should be connected to the shield of the 1/4" phone plug.  That way the parts of the key that you could easily touch should be at ground potential.  The other binding post should be connected to the tip contact of the 1/4" phone plug.

Good luck and 73,
Stuart
WB6RXG

I'm not sure about the part number but, twinax was used a long time ago by IBM and others to network their computer sytems.

73,
Stuart
WB6RXG

For K6AER,

Mike, I've been riding for 35 years with a similar philosophy.  It call it the two rules for surviving riding a motorcycle.  Rule #1: You are invisible.  Rule #2: The drivers that can see you are out to runn you over.  I have always thought that new drivers should ride a motorcycle for 30 days before getting their license.

I've been thinking about mounting my handheld on a motorcycle with a headset since commute time is about the only on-air time I get these days.

73
Stuart
WB6RXG

I'd like to get the documentation for a GLB Channelizer 220 also.

stuart at maxinet dot com

73,
stuart
WB6RXG

Seems to me I read somewhere a long long time ago that HI HI was a result of Hee Hee being sent with shortened spacing between the E's.  It just sort of became Hi Hi from then on.

Stuart
WB6RXG