TVI can be a real challenge.  No all interference enters your TV via the cable or twin-lead input.  You don't say which channel(s) are affected.  Let me suggest you check the information on this site:
http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/pdf/9403082.pdf
It may very well start you looking in the right direction.

Toby,
I recommended you read the web page covering crystal radio construction for two reasons:

1.  The answer to your question is incuded in that information on that page.

2.  As a teacher, I find that students who are shown where to find an answer usually accomplish more than simply satisfying a curiosity.

I suspect you will want to advance beyond Technician.  While it is true that you can advance your license status using purely rote processes for test taking, you may find it more satisfying if you're completely confident with your own ability to independently prove your answers to various technical questions.
I hope you will read that web page.
 

I believe the best way to answer your question is to recommend you read the information on this single web page:

http://www.scitoys.com/scitoys/scitoys/radio/homemade_radio.html

Also    http://pacnet.ne.mediaone.net/wb4hfn/resources/bazooka.txt

take a look at http://www.leeslimo.com/bazooka.htm

I seem to remember seeing that design.  Seems to me they fed the shield on one side from the center conductor of the feed line and the center conductor of the opposite side with the shield of the feed line the shorted the ends.  But I don't remember what the dimensions were.  I think I have it somewhere in my notes file (well, "file" isn't the best description  -  "pile" is how the XYL describes it) and I'll try to locate it.

I do prefer stranded wire over solid copper or copperweld, especially when I'm experimenting and need to make various adjustments over time.  Stranded wire behaves better mechanically.  It coils and uncoils smoothly and lays fairly flat, unlike solid wire (especially copperweld) which often behaves more like one of those slinky toys of the 50's.  Because it behaves, stranded wire is easier to measure while lying flat on the ground or other surface.  I use AWG10 for most of my wire antennas and support it with parallel 80 pound test nylon line tied to the wire at two or three foot intervals with nylon ties.
While skin effect is clearly a reality,  I don't believe you will find much electrical advantage (at least not measureable) in using stranded wire over solid.  But it might be worth doing some experiments.  If your results prove sufficiently interesting there are plenty of publications waiting to accept your technical article on the results.
In my experience, it isn't worth the time it takes to do the math to factor in skin effect at lower frequencies.  There are a couple of suppliers on the Internet that will ship you the stranded wire at a very reasonable rate.  Wire is where it's at.  Good luck.

Perhaps your FT-23R is the FT-230R?
W7FG http://www.w7fg.com/cgibin/cat.cgi?find=Y has that listed in their inventory.

Since I was introduced to CW with a straight key in 1956, I'm gonna recognize my bias and recommend you begin with a straight key.  I've used many kinds and types of "bugs" and keyers and I always come back to the straight key.  My J38 still works as well as it did in '56.  Sending CW fast takes a back seat to sending accurately with proper cadence.  And that takes many hours of practice (and some proper instruction if you can find it) for placement of the fingers and movement of the wrist (it's all in the wrist). Sending fast so that the receiving operator who is using a code reader can claim he copies a sloppy 45 WPM in his head doesn't impress anyone.

http://www.govcon.net/opportunities/CBD sometimes has that kind of surplus equuipment.
I recall something around the beginning of 2000 (January or February) about a TDX synchro.
Good Luck...... (Isn't the CT a control transformer???)

Of course, you'll also want to look at the comments in the eham.net file at:  http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/13

73s

There is a review posted at:  http://www.w3.org/People/Swick/NVARC/Signal/804/  which might interest you.

Your question was, simply: "Can anyone point me at a web site that has this info."
You might try:  http://www.cebik.com/taper.html  for starters...
Good luck.  Serious Yagi design is not for the faint of heart (or for the couch potato)

Hi-Manuals (http://www.hi-manuals.com/HomePage.htm) lists a manual for the FM28 on their page http://www.hi-manuals.com/CatalogC.htm.
Can't say how recently the page was updated but it's worth a try.
Good luck.

Ooops; Sorry Ed.  Forgot to include this one in the last note.
http://www.sarrio.com/sarrio/rsman3.html