Also try:  http://ds.dial.pipex.com/town/estate/va41/manuals_frame_index_y.htm

Try and email to:      customerservice@yaesuusa.com

You didn't indicate how old the TV set or antenna are so we can't be certain what impedence matching issues exist at either end of the antenna feed line; and we don't know if your "regular TV antenna" has both 300 ohm twin lead AND 75 ohm coaxial connections or just one of these.

Keep in mind that you should not attempt any antenna connection until you're absolutely certain that anything you install is properly grounded and has proper lightning protection; check your local codes for that info.

Simply put, if you're wanting to connect the TV antenna to what was formerly a cable "demarc", (demarcation point) make certain that the impedence of the line which connects from the TV antenna to that "demarc" is the same as the cable TV line that's already in place.  If the antenna is equiped with a 300 ohm twin lead you'll need to purchase a converter to connect between that and the cable.  Better yet, why not try building one?  The quality of FM radio reception with your TV antenna will depend upon a number of things, not the least of which is the topography/location/distance of the FM station(s) you select.  But it's worth a try.  You'll need a "signal splitter" to feed more than one device from a single antenna line.  

A word about amplifiers.  Any amplifier connected between your antenna and the TV set will be limited to "improving" the signal from the antenna.  If the signal received at the antenna is weak the amplifier isn't going to make up for weak reception.  They sometimes help, but many of them amplify the "noise" along with the desired signal and the results can be pretty disappointing.  If you buy an amplifier, make sure they'll take it back if it doesn't perform as you had hoped.
Good luck.......
 

Here's a pretty good list to use in starting your search:


http://www.sarrio.com/
http://www.w7fg.com/index.html
http://www.surplussales.com/SSIndex.html

In Physics, the upper case "I" is commonly used as a symbol for intensity.  I believe that, for mathematical calculations using Ohms Law, "I" is intended to represent current as intensity.  We commonly think of "E" in Ohms law as EMF or electro-motive force.  "E", as viewed from a physics perspective, it is simply energy; which defines electro-motive force.  "R", again from a physics perspective, signifies (among other things) resistance.

Over the years, I've used copper-weld and other common materials for wire antenna construction with good results.  I've never liked using aluminum for anything, except perhaps chasis, connected with radio.
I recently discovered a twisted copper wire product which I found on the Internet at http://www.davisrf.com/ham1/flexweve.htm
Take a look and see if it's something that might interest you.

Jason, it's been a lot of years but "once upon a time" the members or aspiring members of ARRL's "rag chewers club" (RCC)  would be  happy to take time to share info about their hobbies, the town/region they lived in, etc.  It was a great help to me when I was a novice.  Calling CQ RCC was once an excellent method of bringing up one of the member stations or an operator who was interested in acquiring the RCC award.  The "Rag Chewers Club" award is still offered by ARRL (see http://www.arrl.org/awards/)  Check it out and see if it sounds like something you're interested in.

Take a look at: http://ftp://ftp.psyber.com/dibs/CIRCATS/opamp04.gif.

73s

If you're just getting started, be sure that the rig you select has been bench tested by a qualified technician.  It's real easy to pick up an old rig that's weak and out of alignment (you can bet some of 'em have been sitting in closets since before you were born) an that you get an original operating manual (copies are OK if they're complete) with your rig.  If you've got a reputible Ham Radio supplier within a hundred miles, make the drive.  Let them know you're just getting started, ask for some advice/suggestions and they'll generally talk staright with you; especially if their sales/service staff includes amateur radio operators.

"Ground" is so common a term in electronics, and can mean so many different things, that it's sometimes frustrating to work through "grounding" problems.  For example, "ground" doesn't
always mean "earth ground".  Among other things, it can refer to a common circuit connection.
Sometimes,  equipment operating instructions use "ground" to mean simply that the "chasis ground"
for all related equipment and accessories should be connected to a common point so as to
share "ground" potential. But these are often very different than references made to "grounding" for safety.
Additionally, the "ground" (third wire) in common residential construction is rarely larger than 12 gauge;
more commonly 14 or 16 gauge (depending on local codes) and may very well be insufficient for providing an acceptable "grounding" platform (circuit) for HF equipment.
Before you make any decisions on what source of "ground" to use, hire an electrician for advice and
to validate your plan.  It's worth the cost (and it could save a life or some valuable property)
One more point about "ground"..........
"Earth ground", when used as a reference (e.g. in antenna installations) doesn't usually mean the
surface of the earth.  Rather, it often refers to an area a few feet below the earth's surface.  Where this
"ground reference" is in your neighborhood will be different from mine.  The "ground" characteristics of
the "earth" in one area can be dramatically different from the "ground" characteristics of the earth
in an area within close proximity (sometimes a matter of a few feet).
It's always a good idea to collect as much information as you can before acting on your decisions
to establish a grounding system for your gear.  I doubt that any of us can give you specific advice
that will help you solve your specific problem; unique as it is to your locale.  Your local electric
company may have some data on the general grounding characteristics for the area in which you live.
Depending on their availability in your region, some electronics engineering and other engineering firms have survey data (especially if they're engaged in supporting heavy construction, pyrotechnics, etc.)  You may find them helpful.
Good luck on your endeavor.

Your charging system (primarily the alternator) doesn't know whether you're using one battery or a dozen.  It only sees the load.  It's job is to replace all the power you take out of your battery or battery set.  If the intention is to draw more from your battery set than your OEM system was designed to handle, an alternator upgrader (e.g. a system that is originally designed with a 60 Amp alternator,  may need a 100 Amp alternator).
Many auto parts stores have manuals that they use to train their counter people (e.g. Kragen, Schucks, Checker, Napa, Auto Zone, etc) and if you know someone who works there you may be able to get hold of some of that material to learn more about automotive electrical systems.  Batteries, for example, are rated in cold cranking amps, hot cranking amps, reserve capacity, etc.   You're not likely to find all the specifications for the battery on its label; you may have to research the manufacturer's technical spec. sheets.
Don't try modifying any automotive electrical system unless you're absolutely certain that you're capable of doing it safely and correctly.  The risks are far too great.

I've used Marine Spar Varnish on some antennas with good results.  Especially those I've made using galvanized conduit and other metals that are succeptible to rust.  It's also a good finish for wooden components in antenna support structures/frames.  Any home improvement center should stock it.  I apply it with a "throw away" brush; two coats, after the antenna is fully constructed and ready to throw up into the sky.

I just picked up a Drake MN-4C Antenna Tuner.  Only have pieces of the original manual so I may be missing some portion of it that explains the "Forward Watts - VSWR control" better.  My copy says, "This switch connects the proper circuitry to allow the meter to read either forward power in watts, or VSWR, as desired." It's a push button switch and the manual doesn't say which meter function occurs at which position.  Anyone have the answer to this one?

The list the K1BRF provided for you is, in my opinion, an excellent one for tracking down your noise problem.  You indicate it doesn't sound like alternator noise so I assume it is not a whine that is static in amplitude but varies in frequency.  Automotive electrical systems are typically very "dirty".  They're "spark gap" generators and the range of frequencies emitted by their electronic components is multitude.  I've had some luck in the past with this little trick.  I bounce on down to my local auto parts store and pick up a BRAIDED COPPER automotive grounding strap.  It's flat braid  with a connector at each end.  I connect one end to a bolt on the engine block, near the firewall (selecting something other than a head bolt, manifold bolt or similar fastener) and I make certain to clean the surfaces REAL WELL before replacing and tightening the bolt.  I attach the other end to a well cleaned shiny surface on the metal firewall.  
Good luck OM..........  

The QTH under consideration rests in the Sierra foothills (elevation 2000 feet) where the pine trees reach 100 feet.  It's on a north/west facing slope in a "clearing" with trees towering on all sides.  There is a clear shot between two trees of about 130 feet and an open wire antenna could be set in that space at a height of 40 feet with no serious difficulty.  A dipole (or similar) attached between these trees would have roughly a NW/SE end to end orientation.  There is also room on the roof of the "shack" for a "you don't need no radials" vertical, and a thirty foot tower is already in place (supporting a TV antenna) but it's about ten feet from a young but vigorous fifty foot pine.
This "shack" has elevations above it to the south and east of about 150 feet; open space (except for those beautiful water filled, gound hugging pines) offers some relief  for approx. 1 mile to the west.
I'm wondering how some of you might handle an antenna selection question in this situation. Of course,  I'd like to avoid those 100+ foot runs of feed line.