You can use them for EMI suppression just like the original use on the CRT.  They are single turn devices mostly since the hole is rather small.

You could also use them to make chokes to decouple low current power supplies at hf if you can fit multiple wires thru the hole.  They can't support much dc though.

It would seem difficult to remove the overmolding in my book.

You can buy clamp on ferrites from many sources and at least you would know what you are getting.  I would just chuck them.

an open circuit stub of coax can be used to make a capacitor.  figure about 22pf per foot.  Trim the end with a wire cutter to tune it.  Start long and trim down.  weather proof the exposed end.  Cheap and effective.

If the vertical is near the house, you may just have enough induced RF on the telephone wires and the computer speakers to cause RF problems.  By all means improve the ground at the vertical, it will if nothing else improve your signal

But.... if you still have problems, you might need to add ferrite common mode chokes to your telephone and the computer speaker wires.  I have also seen the DSL telephone filters used as RFI filters for phone use.  The computer speakers might need the wires wound on a ferrite toroid to filter them.  Clip on beads might not have enough impedance at HF.  The power supply wires might need a toroid added as well.

Long wires to ground rods are not the solution to anything.  There is nothing to be feared in the second story ham shack.  The same common mode problems can occur at ground level

Why does everyone think based on the given specs the device is a PIN diode?  

The posted title is "general purpose fast rectifier"

That is not what PIN diodes are used for.

The specs given are typical of a rectifier type device.  Forward voltage at a given current and reverse recovery time, Repetative peak reverse voltage etc are just like a low current signal type rectifier.  The 1n4148 might work depending on if you really need the 200V reverse rating.

I would guess the diode here is used as a simple PN junction switch and is not an "exotic" PIN diode.

You can look at the reverse bias used to shut the switch off and the peak to peak RF voltage applied and roughly the sum of the two should be what you need for peak reverse voltage rating.

The recovery time would be only of interest if it was rectifying, which as a switch it would not be doing.  A diode switch is intentionally forward biased in the one state (and kept that way).  It is intentionally reverse biased when it is supposed to be off.  Usually a large reverse bias is applied to make sure it is off.

Good luck with the repairs.

I have one made by Moose Systems in 1991.  Never had any RFI or susepability problems at 100 watts 160  thru 10m.  I run both coax and window line fed antennas.  My ham shack is on the second story (yes the eham dreaded second story shack).  I don't have an extensive array of copper bus bars and earthing systems.

Only problem was a defective smoke detector became suseptable on 17m.  But it was fixed by replacing the defective smoke sensor.

Prior to that I had a unit made by Sears which was very suseptable to RF.

I would suggest that you make sure you don't have a lot of common mode RF on your antenna system and coupling into your power lines.    I would consider yourself at risk for this if you are a fan of end fed antennas without extensive decoupling or "G5RVs" without baluns and offset fed "windoms".  

I think most well designed modern alarm systems should be fine at 100 to 200 watt levels.  If you are going to run kilowatt signals -- you are on your own.

Consider yourself flamed Alan, I had a 430 for years, the only problem was the infamous rivets in the final amplifiers problem which I fixed easily.

I sold the rig still working and have gotten emails about it.  It still is working.

I would say the gentleman that is pointing to the PLL is on the right track.  I would get a service manual and check voltages in the PLL area.  As I recall, the service manual was pretty extensive and if you are technically skilled you should be able to fix it, assuming parts are obtainable.

And yes there was a jumper to cut to add a last digit to the display but the original poster did not seem to be having that problem.

What is it you want it to do?

What operating system / hardware are you wanting to use it with?

There are a number of devices out there, but without knowing why the initial device you tried didn't work and wasn't suitable, we are all just guessing.

Let me see, you can put up a 25 foot mast, but you can't have a "big antenna".  Why not figure out how to load the 25 foot mast?  A 1/4 wave on 20m is about 17 ft.  Put a fake sat. TV antenna on top of a 17 foot mast and add some sort of ground system and you have a 20m vertical.  If you where to feed it with an autotuner it would work on 40 thru 10m with better results than a "hamstick dipole".

I would seriously consider an internet controlled remote station.  You have a laptop I assume and internet access at your hotel.  Rig up your home station to a PC and setup the internet link and you have a station.

Otherwise equipment is not the problem with on the road operation.  The antenna and getting access to the outside is the problem.

I would consider a KX1 or K1.  They both have good antenna tuners and meet the small and light selfcontained requirements.  I would not consider any portable rig without a tuner for self contained portable station.  You need something that will work with strange and less than perfect antennas.

Since the antenna is not matched to the feed line and you are matching with a tuner anyway, why do you care about the distance between the feed line wires.  Most of the field is between the two wires of the T line, so reduce the spacing down before entering the wall and use a short piece of window line (the stuff with the windows punched into it).  Run it through a hole in the block lined with some plastic pipe.  There will be an impedance bump, but since it is an unmatched system anyway, why worry.  Just make a match using the tuner.  If a match is hard to obtain, change the feed line length until you get something that works.

The biggest thing to watch out for is places where you have a high voltage on the feed line.  At those points you need to make sure you have sufficient spacing to prevent any flash over.  So adding some plastic pipe or stand offs would be in order, anywhere you might get an arc.

Ladder line systems are not nearly as particular as many posts on eham would have you believe.  Just be prepared for a few tweaks if encounter lenghth or spacing issues.

Nothing like a bunch of friendly replys to a beginer question.  Isn't this the Elmers thread?

Merry Christmas.  HNY

Only if you are feeding with coax and have a common mode problem.  The ferrite clip ons can function as a 1:1 choke balun.  The dipole still needs to be the proper dimensions.

You are going to have to do major land clearing to put up the log periodic for 80 thru 10m.  Do you know how large something like that is?  The active elements on 80m must be around a half wavelength.  There must be a number of them as well.  They taper down to about to a half wave on 10m.  The boom would be on the order of 100 feet long.

Also as the other post pointed out, you need your tower to be around a half wave high which is roughly 135ft at 80m.  

I think the trees are the least of your concerns.

R is the CW abreviation for received all.  Typically on CW you might send something several times so that you are assured the other station copied it.  Thus R R etc.

Sometimes PSK ops are also CW ops using an new mode and (they) (we) drop into old habits.  There is a lot of tradition in ham radio -- learn to not get too wrapped around the axle about it.

There is no band switch per se in the TS430.

There was a well known problem with the front end filtering relays getting corroded.  The relays switch in different filters for various frequency ranges.  There was a Kenwood service bulletin the gave a procedure on how to use a DC voltage source (power supply) to use a current to "clean" the relay contacts.  Try one of the Kenwood Mods web sites.

As far as replacing the darlington transistor array goes, the function does not seem that exotic.  The guy looking for the part might search around for various peripheral driver chips made by TI and there used to be a line of them made by Sprague as well.  You might find something surplus that you could subsititute.