If it's that bad to need a full restore, it will be
restored yes..but not 'original'.

If you have that kind of money for a full restore, cheaper to find a nice one and have it professionally aligned, cleaned etc..

Use the one you got for a parts rig for the other.

Unless that radio has some kind of personal sentimental value, these rigs are some 30 years old.

Not worth it IMHO.

Good luck.

I need to replace the breaker on a Heathkit HP-23 Power Supply.
The breaker points broke (old and weary..)

Anyone know the rating of the breaker? (amps).

Any suggestions on a substitute that would fit into the case?

Thanks..

"My advice (take it for what it's worth) is that if you are going to use older gear, you should invest a lot of time into the study of electronics. "

*sigh*

I put 2 Viking II's on the air from basket cases.

One DX-100.

Two Globe Scouts 680's.

Two Heathkit DX-40's

Two Hammarlund HQ-129X's

One SB-200

One SB-201 including Harbach mods.
(Assembly required, high voltage not included.)

One Knightkit T-150.

One Heathkit GR-91

Hallicraters HT-37 and '101'

One Heathkit SB-300..

And various Crosley, RCA and Zenith console radios that I have forgotten because frankly, I get bored with them..

I'm presently working on another Viking II that I got on Ebay.

Why, once again you may ask?

I got to paint it a krinkle black because I think krinkle black is cool and makes perfectionists pull their hair out.
I also get turned on by 807's.

Where was I?

Oh yes..

I asked for a service person for a HW-101 that was reputable.

Why you may ask yet again?

That question seems to make everyone curious and give advice about electronic knowledge when frankly, all I wanted was a service person!

Below is a list, but not limited to, all my reasons why I wanted a reputable service person.

The below reasons should satisify the curious, the 'experts' and those who have nothing better to do except read my drivel.

I don't want to do it myself anymore.

I don't have the patience anymore.

I'm not digging the signal generator and that other crap out of the barn.
I'm lazy.

My parrot hates Heathkits.

I don't have the patience for it anymore.

This is a hobby and I don't want to spend that kind of time anymore.

I don't have the patience for it anymore.

The thought of sitting at a table taking readings on resistors and capacitors bores me.

I hate VTVM's.

I'd rather pay someone else to do it.

I don't have the patience for it anymore.

The little color bands on resistors reminds me of Christmas.
I hate Christmas.

My dog hates the smell of solder.

By paying someone else for my aggravation I feel I am helping the economy.

And I don't have the patience for it anymore.

Getting back to the original question:
'Is there a reputable service person..'

Thanks..I found one.

On another note, I like 'Buzzardly' transmitters and receivers.

My XYL said the Heathkit '101' was just too 'purdy' to paint krinkle black.
She wanted to keep it 'purdy'.

I may just give it to her when it returns..
She says it matches her green dishes.

Have to keep momma happy.

"You will find that repairing equipment is a lot of fun and a lot less costly than paying someone else to do it. "

I'm a firm believer in 'a man had got to know his limitations.'

I've seen alot of good radios messed up by 'learning hams' and their golden screw driver and end up on Ebay.

If you don't know what your doing, get a good tech who knows what's he's doing, to show you or send it to a professional.

If someone wants to learn, learn on a junker radio.
If you mess it up, your out nothing.

Mess up a good radio and it will cost you more than parts and labor from a professional.

My two cents on that subject.

"Never used their services but http://www.rtoham.com/ might fill the need. "

Thanks, I called the guy at RTO.
$115.00 for trouble shooting, check it out and alignment plus parts.

Shipped today.

Thanks but the tube substitute does'nt work.

Is there any shops that take Heathkits?
The 'shotgun' approach to radio repair can get expensive.

Rather have it gone over by a tech so I know it works.

Thanks.

Thanks but the tube substitute does'nt work.

Is there any shops that take Heathkits?
The 'shotgun' approach to radio repair can get expensive.

Rather have it gone over by a tech so I know it works.

Thanks.

Thanks but the tube substitute does'nt work.

Is there any shops that take Heathkits?
The 'shotgun' approach to radio repair can get expensive.

Rather have it gone over by a tech so I know it works.

Thanks.

Hi.
I have a Heathkit HW-101.
The receive drops about 1-2 minutes after it is turned on. Except for that, everything works well.

Is there a repair service that specializes in these radios today?

I do not want to do it myself as I do not have the gear or the expertise in repairing this kind of radio.

I want someone reputable and knows Heathkits.
Thanks..

"Checking the tubes these days can be tough; not every corner drugstore has a tube tester ... and how do you know a spare tube (of possibly dubious origin) is any better than the one you already have? "

I have to look at this as a matter of value.
By the time I buy a tube tester, and other gear to trouble shoot, I could send it out and have it fixed.

Of course depending on the price of labor also.

I'll see what it will cost and decide if I want to fix it or maybe sell the parts.

Thanks to all for you help.

Well..your lucky.

Glad nothing bad happened.

I got hit years back working on a Knight T-150.

That can make a guy humble..

If you survive, you'll always remember the ol' elmer rules.

Turn it off
Discharge the caps.
Make sure it's turned off.
If your not sure, discharge the caps again.
Look at the wall socket and unplug it..now I know it's turned off.
Would'nt be bad to discharge the caps again.
Is it turned off?

And..put your hand in your pocket.

Ok..I'm paranoid.
With HV..that's a good thing.

Please be careful.

If it's three pin I suspect it is for a relay (PTT).

I agree with one post, some of these 'mods' are butcher jobs.

Check to see if there is a relay in the rig.

Some Vikings came with a relay as they were used for civil defense.
Some still have the 'CD" sticker on the front.

If so, and provided the original mic hole is'nt butchered to much, you might be able to use a regular phone plug jack found at any rat shack.

If it is, then your only option as I can see is get a small piece of sheet metal (16 ga.) square, and drill a mic connector hole, attach with rivets or screws.

Not 'original', but taking out metal (butchering) is easy, trying to put it back is the problem.

Good luck.

I've never 'burned in' a tube (572B, 811 and 813's)

I just plug them in..warm up the set for a minute or so like I do all my tube gear before using and fire it up.

Works for me..

I just use the el cheapo from Antique Electric Supply.
Recapped a Heathkit DX-100
Viking II
Heathkit SB-401
No problems.

Antique Electric is short on radial lead electrolytic.
Might try somewhere else.

I use the cheapo stuff from Antique Radio Supply.

I'm in the process of recapping a Johnson Viking II (secound one..) and a Heathkit HW-101.

Even the cheapest caps today are better than 40-50 years ago.

Your good for another 30-40 years.