As always, some know-it-all is giving out bad information ans someone believes him.  Soldering guns cause global warming, too!!!  LOL!!!  Use your soldering gun and be happy.

Contact Ameritron and send them a copy of your license and they will send you the page with the mod.  It very simple but I don't want to talk about it in here because someone else without a license (CBers) will then buy the things and use them illegally.  I am just following Ameritron's rules.  You don't have to tweak anything once it is done.

Good luck and 73 DE Bert @ KA2UUP

As always, alarmist reporting when they don't have anything else to report.  Here in Boston we call it "the fear of the day."  

Does the 920 have an autotuner built in?  If it does, then the autotuner will only work when the amplifier is on standby.  Once you put the amplifier on line, the autotuner will only see the amplifier input.

However, if your 920 is hooked up to an outboard autotuner, the connect the autotuner after the amplifier, tune the antenna and then put the amplfier on line.

I am not familiar with the 920.  That is why I ask the question.

Bert @ KA2UUP

BTW, since when are we being graded for spelling and grammar?  The man had a question, he deserves an answer.  Most have given the answer he wanted, let's keep it that way.

The RigBlater series, the BuxComm interfaces and TigerTronics are some.  The upscale stuff like MicroHam and RigExpert works well, too.  MicroHam has the ability to control all the functions of the radio from one USB port.  You could also homebrew your own for a fraction of the price.

I will not question the costs of the options you want to pursue in this forum like others like to do, because it is not my place to judge you on want you want to do with your own money.  The important thing is that there are many options you have at your disposal, and all work well.

Take care, have fun and see you on the bands!

73 DE Bert @ KA2UUP

Paul:

I think the problem lies in that the Java version is a "work in progress."  I have used the original version of SatScape for about 5-6 years and remember readin a ocuple of years ago about Scott teaching himself Java in order to write the next generation version.

In the SatScape site there is a Bug Tracker link at the top of the page that is moderated by someone familar with the software.  I suggest you post the question there.

I experimented with the Java version some months ago and I did not like it because it made me feel like I was not in control of the software and of the satellite I wanted to see.  I presume that there are bugs in it.

Good luck DE Bert @ KA2UUP

The MFJ-1798 2-80 meter antenna has worked well for me. I have it mounted in a 5 foot pole about 60 feet away from my house.  It has been up now for 8 years and has served me well.  Only problem is the narrow bandwidth on 80 meters (SWR 2:1 bandwidth is about 150 kHz).  Also, you would compromise either the 6 or 17 meter band because they use the same radiator.  Mine is optimized for the high part of the 6 meter band.  Assemby will take you between 6 and 8 hours, but you will not be disappointed.

As always, verticals are "compromise" antennas.  This one works well and will hold up well.

Good luck DE Bert @ KA2UUP

Then you put a gorund rod and continue the run!!!!  Geez, it's called common sense!!!

I am using the regular version of SatScape.  You should be able to remove it from the Wx Satellite pane.  Are you using the Java version?  There maybe something different in it from the regular version.

Best thing to do is send an e-mail to Scott Hather and ask why this is happening.

Good luck and 73 DE Bert.

Martin,

This is a great antenna.  I have had one for 8 years and it is excellent for HF.  It is somewhat narrow on the 40 and 80 meter bands, but that is what you get when you have multibanders.

I don't have any experience on 2 meters because I have a dedicated antenna for that.

Take care!

Bert @ KA2UUP

Yes, and it is required by code.  I have the same case as you, antenna tower at the corner diagonal to the mains entrance.  I grounded the antenna structure by burrying 8 foot copper clad rods at 8 feet from each other around the house and bonding the tower, the rods, and the entrance ground together with clamps.  My entrance panel for the wires is a copper plate with the lightning arrestors bonded to the gorund system just mentioned.

What you are looking for in here is to minimize potentials.  The bonded system allows for the potentials to rise and fall at the same time during a possible strike.  As always, I disconnects the antennas and equipment and also disconnect the equipment from the mains, just as an additional precaution when not operating for lengthy periods.

Good luck DE Bert @ KA2UUP.

Martin:

The wire you mention is not an "owner's mod", but a modification by MFJ to improve the capacitance hat area and also provide stability to the upper structure. The wire is tied around the perimeter wire and soldered to it. What I don't remember is the place to tie it at the upper structure. The instructions on how to do this are in a supplemental sheet to the MFJ manual. I suggest you call the MFJ people and tell them to fax, e-mail or send it to you.

Hope this helps!

73 DE Bert, KA2UUP  
       

Sounds like some know-it-all guy.  Intentional interference to protect information?  I think, NOT!!!!  Turn him in!!!!

73 de KA2UUP

Suggestion:

There is a nifty program called FAROS that will monitor the beacons for you and assess the band conditions.  It also has the capability of rig control to change to other bands.  I tired the freeware version about 2 and 1/2 years ago and liked it so much I bought the key to it.  You may want to check it out.

73 DE Bert at KA2UUP