Does anyone have any info on how to use this keyer? Know where I can find some?

I was planning to give this keyer to a young ham that needs one but I don't have the manual and I don't know how to use it.

I need to make a power cord for a FT-7B. Does anyone here the schematic for the power plug?

Jerry, its a Dentron 160-10 Transmatch.

I plan to replace the wire but was just wondering what could have done this.

I don't know yet for sure, but I would guess its a 500 watt or so tuner. Everything else looks to be in good shape. I had a Dentron Super Tuner a few years ago and as I recall, the components inside were all a bit bigger.

Bought a Dentron 160-10 tuner and have found a wire with partially melted insulation. The wire is between the inductor switch and the top of the inductor coil. It connects switch position A to the first turn of the coil at the top. It would be the minimum inductance. The switch looks good, no evidence of arcing. But that one wire has obviously been overheated.

I will certainly replace it but wonder what sort of situation would have caused it. Too much power? Mismatch too far off? Both: way bad match combined with high power? No way to really know? Any reason to worry about it even? Just replace it and go?

 I have pics hosted online if you care to look. The rest of the innards look good.

http://briefcase.yahoo.com/zingflap

Oddly enough, they are in the "Dentron" folder.

TQ, it may take some expirimentation to get it to match (transmitting antennas MUST be properly tuned to the frequency or channel they are going to be used on). I have to ask: do you have an SWR meter? This meter is absolutely neccessary to properly set the antenna for your transmitter. Without it, you are chancing wrecking your radio.

Learning and expirimenting with different antennas can be great fun. There are many simple designs that can be easily and cheaply constructed. Leave the more complicated antennas for when you have some experience and a good book or two.

Also, don't be afraid to look into getting a ham license and really opening up your radio world!

I agree that learning with a class or at least one other person will help a lot.

After learning the code via tapes and getting my tech+, I hooked up with a friend to practice on the air. Made fast gains. Way better than I was doing on my own. He experienced the same thing.

Eventually, I dropped CW altogether but have been getting the bug again. I just bought an old HF radio and now I'm looking for a key. I've lost so much over the years that I will have to start over nearly from scratch.

If you do not live in the city, what does the city have to say about anything you do on your property?

If you do not live within the jurisdiction of the city, why ask them for permission?

Kb9YNB, ya that was me. I thought I had asked this before here but couldn't find it. So, I asked again. Doesn't matter anymore right now, the engine in the truck blew. No money for a multi-band HF rig now.

It boils down to me reading about the low efficiency of the short whips that have to be used on a vehicle. Both screwdriver and whip-and-tuner antennas are mostly limited to a 102" whip. Power lines, trees and low flying aircraft are all concerns when contemplating a 20' whip on your trunk mount. Seems to me a longer whip would help out on the lower bands. It also seems to me the whip doesn't need to be straight vertical. Perhaps for optimum radiating pattern it does, but not simply for increased signal out and less wasted as heat inside the tuner or screwdriver coil.

In the other thread, I was told to build it and see how it works. No problem with that but how can I tell if the tuner is having an easier time of matching the antenna on the lower bands? How can I determine if there is any real usable increase in effeciency? Would simply taking field strength measurements show that? Is there an antenna modeling program that could crunch the numbers on such an odd antenna?

I've been told using a short whip on the lower bands creates high voltage at the feed point and was advised to use something with better insulating properties than a simple ball mount. Well, wouldn't the better-than-100% increase in whip length help out in that regard? Alleviating some of the problems with a short whip on the low bands is the reason for doing this in the first place.

I don't want to use a screwdriver antenna because one of the complaints I read about them is the low efficiency caused by the short whip on the low bands. This much longer whip should help in that regard.

As you guys can see, I just don't know much about antennas. I just keep reading about how poor the 102" whip is on the low bands regardless of whether its on a tuner or in a screwdriver. I know that on a vehicle, there really isn't much that can be done due to the extreme space limitations, but this seems to be easily done and is, at least, something.

Hey, how about running a coil of wire around the roofline of the fiberglass topper? Turn my truck into a big, radiating capacitor? Ok, I'm getting silly.........

I'm thinking of installing an HF radio in the little pickup and have a thought about the antenna and I'd like to run it by you guys.

I really have no experience with HF mobiling except for 10 meters. For that, the old stainless whip on a ball mount always worked well. Now though, things will get a bit more involved.

From what I have read here and elsewhere, the way I plan to go is with an auto-tuner and a whip. Simple, works well enough. Problem (as I get it from the forums) is that a 9' whip is barely adequate for a whip but anything taller really becomes troublesome.

So, here is my thought on the short whip problem. How about installing one whip on a ball mount (or something else that may be suggested and work better for this) and feed the antenna there, then mount another whip on the other side of the truck and weld a rod between the tops of the two whips. This would give you a much longer whip and I would expect it would radiate more signal and be easier for the tuner to match on the lower frequencies. The "other" whip would not have any coax attached to it. The mount on that side would be there just to support it. So, one whip on the passenger side, a (stainless steel) rod welded on the tip leading to the driver's side of the truck and welded onto the tip of another whip over there. Combined length would be about 23'. 9' up one side, about 5' across the top, and another 9' down the other side.

Seems the added length would make matching the lower frequencies easier for the tuner and the added metal in the air should radiate (and capture) more signal.

Any opinions on this?

What is this phobia about converted CBs? Why do you guys fret so about a ham using an old SSB CB converted for 10 meters? I read so much whining about this I just can't believe it. A radio is a radio for God's sake. Grow up.

Well Mike, my antenna is non-existant right now. I'm just now getting back into HF after being mostly out of the hobby. I know that with my very small lot, any antenna is going to be less than ideal. I also live in a valley surrounded by bluffs.

I don't even have a decent radio yet. Just an old Swan 400 for now. I'm going to be purchasing equipment this fall and wanted to get a better idea of which way to go with the amp. I've learned a lot by reading through the other threads in this forum and from advice given to my questions.

Well, I was thinking about a tube amp. The big power supply needed for a solid state amp would realy drive the price up where I would start to cry as I wrote the check.

I was thinking around 500-800 watts for power. there's a hamfest coming up in St.Paul Mn. this Oct 25 and I thought I would look for something there. See what the prices are like.

I've been contemplating the purchase of an amplifier. I've read through several threads here and have a few questions.

I've been reading that I should probably steer clear of the older amps due to aging components. Also, there is the problem of obsolete tubes. I understand that I should also stay away from amps that use sweep tubes in various numbers.

So, what amps to avoid? I just don't know what amps use what tubes.

What brands have distinguished themselves by being lousy amps?

I see Heathkit amps for cheap, Dentrons, Swans. Any of them really stand out as better than the others? Even within the same brand?

I have read some about Ameritrons and they seem to enjoy a good reputation. How about Aplha?

Opinions requested.

Thanks.

When I had a radio in my truck (old SUV) I put a cheap Radio Shack cb on the transmission hump, held in place with velcro and a quick disconnect, phony power cord. I painted "Radio Shack on the top where it was easily visible. I had a door in front of the real radio in the dash. If you looked inside, all you saw was a cheap CB. Nobody has any respect for Radio Shack equipment and I never have had a break-in. I also had full glass coverage with no deductable. If I had a break-in, its likely I would have lost a $40 CB and the window would have cost me nothing (except slightly higher premiums for the full glass coverage).
If you can't really hide the fact that you have a two-way radio in the car, fake 'em out and give 'em something cheap and easy to get to steal.

Anyone here like to give opinons? Sort of like asking who wants to be a millionaire, huh?
I'm going to set up my little pickup for HF. I'll be using a 102" whip to start with. Is there a mobile tuner that has shown itself to be particulrly suited for this? Power level will be 100-200 watts for the forseeable future.
I was also thinking of trying a horizontal loop over the fibergalss bed cap (I just have to try it). Would that work better with a certain style of tuner as opposed to a whip?