First thing to check is Q303 - an FET (2SK152, I think) that is the first thing downstream from the antenna jack; it is prone to dying due to static electricity hits. Early production radios have no diode protection, late production ones do; I don't know off-hand when the diode protection was first installed, though.

There's a very good Yahoo group on the ICF-2010, with plenty of information on repair, modifications, etc.  I think that schematics are also available there; if you get the chance to buy one, I strongly recommend Steve Whitt's CD compilation of '2010 information.

Another option I'd try would be to use what's called "dielectric grease" or "tuneup grease" from the auto parts store - it's used to keep spark plug boots from sticking to the porcelain (in addition to other uses).  It's a translucent silicone-based grease, looks a bit like Vaseline, but doesn't get as runny under high temps, and much less chance of arcing or catching fire.

I think there is at least one kit out there (board & all) as well as replacement parts kits (use existing board).

I got the kit about a year ago for my Swan 117XC power supply, and it was an easy build & install. I don't recall the seller right off-hand (I've probably got it written down at home somewhere...)

Try the Swan group on Yahoo; I think you'll find the info in the message archives there.

Take a look at http://www.usbwifi.orconhosting.net.nz/ and see what they've been doing - their larger versions show 12-15 dB gain, line-of-sight up to 5 KM, for about $5 worth of parts in addition to the USB wi-fi stick...

I'm in the midst of resurrecting a late 500C myself; all electrolytic caps have been replaced as was R-203 (4.7K 1 Watt) which I replaced with a 3 watt non-inductive thick-film resistor (the original had badly overheated, and was only 3.3K).

Be aware that the 500C went through some changes during its production run; I've read that there are as many as 7 variants.  Biggest is early vs. late; early has only a 3-position function switch, late has a 5-position switch.

Early version has an additional transistorized buffer stage in the VFO as an attempt at stability which was dropped in the later version; late has a solid-state carrier oscillator which replaced a tube stage (V14 & associated components).

As a result, you'll need to ID which version you have and use an appropriate schematic, but expect that it won't be 100% accurate.  The parts list in the manual may not be 100% accurate either - the manual I found for my late 500C shows C202 as a three-section electrolytic cap (40-40-20 uf @ 450-450-25 V), while the Mallory original one installed in mine was only a two-section (40-40 uf @ 450-450 V); the schematic in that manual shows a C202a (40 uf @ 450 V)and a C202c (also 40 uf @ 450 V) but I can find no C202b in it...

I went the complete power supply board replacement route; bought the kit & assembled it.  Depending upon the mounting tolerances in your PS, you may need to use spacers to mount the board in order to clear the transformer - mine took about 1/4" to clear.

Also, one of the tubes (I think the 6GK6 driver - I'm working from memory here) has pin 6 tied to ground; with original tubes this poses no problem but some replacement tubes have internal connections which will cause the "magic smoke" to escape if pin 6 is at ground potential.  The fix is to remove the ground connection for pin 6 at the tube socket (i.e., nothing connected at all to pin 6).  (Verify which tube first, before doing anything - as I said, I'm working from memory here...)

I've been considering the K4DBK VFO stablizer ( http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/7448 ), but want to get the 500C working as originally built before considering any add-ons. I've seen a somewhat major mod to replace the PA sweep tubes with 6146 transmitter tubes, but it is rather involved; I doubt it's something for a neophyte to tackle, as it involves new tube sockets & rewiring of the PA stages.

Finally, check out the Swan group on Yahoo - good, helpful people, and a great deal of useful information.

For more interesting ways of extending WiFi signals, check out http://www.usbwifi.orconhosting.net.nz/

In the ham tradition of improvising on the cheap, they use various articles of cooking utensils (Wok-Fi!) as dish reflectors to mount a USB WiFi adapter, with as much as 15dB gain, and 2 - 5 km line of sight connections!

I'll also endorse AVG anti-virus; it doesn't impose nearly the system hit that Norton, McAfee, etc. do.

For free anti-spyware, use both Spybot S&D and Ad-Aware; if one misses something, the other should catch it. For a paid anti-spyware, Webroot Software's Spy Sweeper is excellent.

Norton is bloatware; the uninstaller does not remove all traces, leaving various bits & pieces behind both in the registry and in the filesystem.

I've used all the above (including Norton and McAfee) and endorse AVG, Spybot S&D, Ad-Aware and Spysweeper; since switching to SuSE Linux, though, I've not had to concern myself with Windows-based security issues...

A Hallicrafters S-20R receiver was used as a ship-to-shore radiotelephone in "Some Like It Hot"...  The handset was plugged into the headphone jack!

In dealing with older equipment, I too prefer stuff from a non-smoking environment; trying to clean years' worth of tobacco smoke residue from the insides of a radio is a grimy, nasty job.

In addition to the deposits on everything, the smoke can wreak havoc with exposed switch contacts such as bandswitches by corroding the contacts, providing flashover paths, promoting arcing, etc.

Radio exterior condition suffers from smoke exposure, also; it leaves a film that can be quite difficult to remove without removing the panel markings at the same time.

The dog & kid both go to the same school?  Must be a smart dog!  Okay, on to something constructive...

6) Par Electronics EndFedz wire dipole?  Monoband, but very low profile, easy to set up, and work quite well.

The document may have characters from the Asian font pack, which isn't normally included, but (IIRC) is a free download from Adobe.

I had the same issue a few years back when getting the FT-90R manuals in .pdf - without the Asian font pack, some stuff didn't display properly.

73

Tom

I've seen QLF (sending with the left foot) contests at hamfests, club picnics, etc.

Anyone know what the fastest recorded QLF speed is?  I'd expect straight key, or possibly a bug or single-lever paddle - iambic QLF would take a LOT of dedication & practice! (not to mention a very compelling reason...)