Well, as I said...the WANG is no more...unless I flind that BIOS 5 1/4" floppy (unlikely).
The NCR machine has a dead PS.
I have an old IBM luggable, with an amber screen.
I didn't think it would work, 'cuz it isn't MSDOS...it is IBM's PCDOS.   Close, but not the same.
Surprise!!!   Found my software, copied it to floppy....and my HT is re-programmed!
I actually can't believe it worked!!   I better take care of that IBM if I want to keep the HT's !!!
Hooray!!!

.....Dave

My HT600 and P200 are programmed (by me) , but recently some PL tones were changed.
First....My old WANG pc lost its BIOS, and requires the floppy (unobtainium)
My NCR PC of similar vintage blew up its' power supply when I plugged it in.

In addition, my CD with the software on it seems to be blank.

HELP!!!    I remember I got the software from some Russian website around 2000 or so??

Can anyone tell me if that website is still up? 
I'll find a new (slow) DOS computer eventually, but not sure where to get that software again.
Thanks folks for any tips!!!
.....Dave

Are there any ssb/cw sats that could be used with the M-squared fixed turnstile
antennas?   or eggbeaters.....not sure what they are called, but used with LEO.

Yup fan runs....everything works just fine for awhile. After 5 to 10 minutes, display blanks out.

Somebody else suggested that as well. But it wouldn't explain why I get a burnt smell from out of the exhaust vent, when (I'm told) the inverter is up in the display.   ??

My Toshiba Satelite must be 8 years old now.
 Centrino duo, running XP.Left it on at a hotel....on the bed, and the lack of air circulation pissed it off!!!
Now it has that distinct smell of burnt bakelite coming out of the vent slots.
After some use, the display goes off.
With a bright light, you can see it is still on...just the lighting went away.
Turn it off, and back on and the cycle repeats.
With an external monitor, all is well.
What would you do?
Is it worth the effort to take the thousand screws apart to open it and search for a visually burnt resistor or cap?
Or being 8 years old or so....just hook up the external monitor, save everything worthwhile and splurge for the new Windows 7 flavor, latest greatest.
PS....other than the fault, the laptop is in mint condition....still has the plastic protective stuff on the outside case since new!!!

Thanks for all the tips on batteries guys....
I had a 7ah gel cell from Radio Shack.
It runs my Elecraft K1 very nicely....but I would not expect it to do any more than that.
Just got a 28 ah gel cell....MUCH bigger than the Radio Shack one.
I will try it out with my Ten Tec Omni V.
I still think a 100 watt rig will kill that battery in no time!!
I will eventually get an AGM deep cycle (car size) battery, solar panel, and charge regulator...and see
how that handles the 100 watt rig!!

I understand your issue completely!!
While the modern day replacements might be this, that, or the other thing...that is not the question. You want it, and working well!!!  I don't blame you....I have two of them  :-)
I have or have had almost everything Heathkit.
Here is your best avenue.....
Do you have the manual?
If not, get one.
If so, go to the parts page.
On a piece of paper....or a Notepad document, write down all the components.     (4.7K, 1/2W, 1%)
Order them from Mouser.
Sit at the bench, and take the thing apart. I've found you almost need a solder station, and desoldering station....wick stuff, and bulbs, and "soldapullits" just don't work!
Clean the terminals of all crud.
Use deoxit IN SMALL AMOUNTS.....like how much can sit at the end of a toothpick, without dripping off.  Don't spray that crap all over, you'll only make things worse!
When UPS box from Mouser shows up, go to page 1 of the manual and start building. It will last another lifetime...and solidly at that.
If you choose to spend the hours to find that one out of tolerance resistor....you may get it working....but next time you use it, you'll be looking for the next out of tolerance resistor.
I've had MANY glitchy, goofy Heath tube audio, and test equipment pieces that...although troubleshooting would be a hoot of an afternoon spent ....NOT....I rebuilt it from the ground up, and they work for ...well.....still working!!!
PS.....There is a special replacement battery for that 8.4 Mercury....not a 9 volt. Got it at Radio Shack by cross-referencing the original.
Good luck, and thanks for giving the item the tlc it deserves......vs. a landfill   (wtf???)

By "nothing"...do you mean no output power, no contacts, or no "dasblinkenlights"....(display).
Those matter as to what might be the bug-a-boo.
....Dave

I have been reading the articles on solar panels.
I had a question about batteries.
I know that a standard car battery needs to be in open air, or well
ventilated...due to the gases released when charging.
Do the same cautions apply to AGM batteries?   Are these the same technology
as what are called "gel cells" ...or somewhat different?
Thanks for the read! 

Thanks OM!!  But that website does not have the 1108   
By the way...I have an unbuilt IM103.
I also have a document which suggests which components to change....common failures.
I was thinking if I build it, swap out those components from the get-go with higher wattage.

.....Dave

I have both those two, but no...this is a GC-1108....with 9 volt battery backup.
It probably is a simple jumper or two, but not sure without the manual.

Anyone have this clock?  It is a bit more rare than the earlier ones.
I'd like to find out the procedure for changing from 24 hour time to 12 hour time.

Of course, its not a switch
If it involves too much, I'll put it in the shack and use it as is. Sadly, I don't have the manual.

Thanks!

Well, if you figure the Heathkit out, you also have the Collins, Drake, old Kenwoods...etc etc. figured out. Some have extra knobs, or call things different names, but...all the same idea.
I would suggest two things. Always have a wattmeter connected. Usually, maximum output occurs when everything is adjusted correctly. If at 100 watts, and you still have too much plate current, try adjusting your loading control. If you don't get a nice dip when adjusting the plate, either your loading is incorrect...or your antenna is far from resonant.
Most important....don't sit in tune too long while figuring stuff out...you'll smoke the tubes.
The Heath's 6146's are a bit more robust than a Swan or old Yaesu's sweep tubes....but they still don't like to be hammered  on in an untuned state.

I suspect ham radio kits is their number one target. But, I doubt you will see any of the crazy stuff folks are asking for. Working radios, or amps, probably would not be a prudent entry point. Think anything that is one board, one box...with the
least amount of extra knobs, switches, connectors, plugs etc.  All the little "sit on top" station accessories would be a good starting point.  There are a few items that currently don't exist (quality ones, that is) that I would buy in a heartbeat!!
Can't wait!!!