Do you have flat-panel LCD monitors or large CRT monitors?

Most LCD monitors can be mounted on a universal "Vesa Mount" system.  Check the documentation on your monitors to determine which Vesa form-factor your monitors can connect onto, and then search for mounts of that size.  Make sure you get the correct size for your monitor, because there are many different sizes:
http://www.mountcenter.com/VESA-Mount-Standards-s/367.htm

I have two 80 amp-hour AGM batteries.  Same manufacturer, same model.  I'd like to use both of these batteries in an automatic fail-over battery backup system in my station.  What is the best way to set up a system like this?

I could connect both batteries in parallel and call it a day.  However, I'm concerned with what'll happen if both batteries aren't identical or if one develops a bad cell.  So I'm considering getting a high-quality two-bank battery charger and connecting one charger bank to each battery.  Doing that would require not connecting the batteries in parallel, but I assume if I do that there'd be no way to discharge both batteries.  And if they are in parallel for discharging, I'd assuming the bad cell scenario would affect discharging just as it affects charging, right?

So, is there a device or devices that will allow two batteries to be charged independently when A/C power is present, and some sort of combiner that'll combine them during discharge?  Or should I keep it simple and connect them in parallel?

Because this system includes some automated devices, I'd also like to integrate low voltage disconnects to prevent over-discharging the batteries during an extended outage.  How would that fit into the mix?  Will it work okay with one LVD device connected at some point after both batteries are combined, or do I need a separate LVD for each battery?

Also, does anyone have a recommendation for a fail-over device like the PowerGate that does not include a built in battery charger?  Ideally one that can handle more than 40 amps.

Thank you,

Luke
KC9IFF

The wheel-shaped extension cord winding devices work well.  I've used the variety with the stand and hand-crank on the side.  You should be able to fit 100 feet of RG8-sized coax.  Just be careful which coax you use it with due to the bend radius less than 2.75 inches.

Another option which I've also used is to simply coil all the coax into appropriately-sized loops and store it in a Rubbermaid storage tote.

One word of warning--be careful that you don't purchase a unit that's too small.  I have an unused CyberPower 425VA UPS (rated maximum 12A/120V output) that I tried this with, plugging my Astron RS-20A into it and my Yaesu FT-8800R into the power supply.  When the radio transmitted on high RF power, the amperage draw/voltage drop was high enough that the UPS would immediately switch into battery mode, which drained the battery low enough to trigger it to power off in less than 60 seconds.

Hello,

I'm planning to put a small ham shack in my basement.  The room is almost entirely underground and the walls are concrete up to the floor joists for the main level.  At this point my only antenna will be a roof-mounted VHF/UHF vertical antenna, though I'd like to account for the addition of two more verticals at some point in the future.

For lightning protection I'm planning on three 8-foot ground rods appropriately inner-connected.  In order to get the coax into the basement, I'll have to drill through the rim joist and bring it into the ceiling of the shack.  For reference, this is approximately two feet above ground level.

I plan on putting my copper sheet single-point-ground on the wall right near where the coax will be entering the building (probably only holding 1 arrester at this point).  But my question is, how should I route the copper strap from the SPG outside to the grounding system?  I was thinking of an approximately 4-inch hole through the rim joist to the outside and into an enclosure.  Should I run the grounding strap through the same hole/enclosure as the coax?  What should I do with the copper strap once it's outside?  Is it safe to run it through a vertical segment of PVC conduit from where it exits the house down to the ground (for aesthetic reasons)?  I'm also concerned that the external enclosure might not be big enough to allow for a gradual radius in the copper strap, but that's probably another topic...

Thank you.
Luke

Hello,

Does anyone know the maximum current draw on the B3016?  I no longer have the manual and I cannot find a copy on the Mirage web site either.  The B3016 is the VHF 30w in 160w out unit.

Thanks,
Luke

What sort of lightning protection would be suggested for use on a 40-foot (or taller) trailer-mounted portable crank-up tower?  I often see these things used without any protection which makes me just a little concerned at times.  I'm wondering if there's something that can be done to provide decent protection but still be somewhat temporary and portable.

Thanks!
Luke

Radioshack sells a model that allows you to select which alerts you want to receive at the level of Advisory, Watch, and Warning for each alert.  So if you wanted tornado warnings, tornado watches, t-storm warnings, but not t-storm watches, you could do that.  Here's the link.  If the link doesn't work, it's Radio Shack model 12-262.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2170274

I own this model and I'm very happy with it.

73,
Luke
KC9IFF

Thanks for the replies.

This would mostly be used during events and things of that nature.  Possibly in the base too.  I suppose I could hack into my existing mic, but I was hoping for something a little bit more plug-and-play.

73,

Howdy all,

I'm thinking about buying an external mic or possibly a headset for use with my Yaesu FT-8800.  But I believe I read somewhere that the microphone connection is multiplexed.  So if that's true it may cause a problem.  Does anyone know a way to use a non-standard mic with this radio?

Thanks!

I'm in the process of deciding if it's worthwhile to develop a CAD-like APRS/report-logging/tracking type program (another thread here: http://www.eham.net/forums/ComputersAndSoftware/1630 ).  What's the best way to get digital maps?  Something that works like google maps would be awesome, where it would also have street/address data for searching.  But this would need to be a standalone/offline program, so the google API won't do me any good.  I really only need maps for a few counties.  I have a feeling that trying to get data from NAVTEQ would be way outside my budget.

Suggestions?

Thanks
-Luke

I'm trying to find a (hopefully freeware) program that can be used by ARES/RACES during disasters, events, etc., to log location-specific reports (damage reports, etc.).  I'd really like it to be CAD based, with maps that would show the reports, allow reports to be added right to the map, and do address searching (like google maps does).  If it could be integrated with APRS too that'd be awesome, but not required.

I could always try developing something like this (not like I have the time), but I don't want to reinvent the wheel here... Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks
-Luke

Thanks guys.  The truck is a 05 Chevy Colorado extended cab.

Greetings,

I'm looking to install a 2m/70cm antenna on my truck, and ideally I'd like to install a Larsen 2/70 NMO on the roof.  The problem is, some of the parking ramps I park in have an approx 6-foot clearance (I haven't actually measured, but the signs say 6-foot), and my truck stands at around 5'9".  I've never seen the Larsen antenna, but I'm thinking this will be too tight of a fit to not damage the antenna.  I don't have to park in these ramps often, but there's situations that I may be required to.  Could I just go with the NMO on the roof and remove it when need be?  How easy are they to remove/reinstall?

That said, what would be the next best option?  My truck has a soft tonneau cover on it; could I fabricate some type of bracket that would attach to the bed rail and allow the antenna to be mounted next to/above the tonneau cover?  I'm not sure how much of a ground plane I'd get by doing this, though.  And getting the coax into the cab would be a whole new question Suggestions?

Thanks

Thanks for all the replies, guys.  I think at this point I probably will go with the Larsen NMO 2/70.  All I need to do now is find someone to install it for me.

Thanks again!
Luke, KC9IFF