Marshall emailed me at 2:30 PM Christmas Eve and will be sending the parts.  Great service!  Right up there with Elecraft.

I figured as much and knew it was a dumb question but I've not had a chance to read the schematic yet nor am I good at understanding cicuits.  I can, however, follow instructions and build a kit.  So I got that going for me.......

My kids gave me the OHR 100A 40M kit for Christmas. Did the parts inventory and everything is there except in the 40 meter bag there is no 15 uH choke but there is a 15 pF mono cap instead.  OHR is closed until the end of the year so I can't ask them.  This may be a dumb question but is that cap meant to be a substitute for the choke?

73 Bill NZ0T

I bought a Jetstream power supply from Cheapham that put out S9 plus hash on the HF bands.  I returned it and Cheapham refunded the full amount even though they said they could not replicate the problem.  They could have easily followed their re-stocking policy and charged me 20% so, except for slow communication, my experience was very good.

They are fused.

I have 4 40AH SLA batteries wired in parallel that I have connected to an Astron RS-35M with the  float backup mod done.  I have this wired with the Astron feeding the batteries and then the load (all the 12V stuff in the shack) connected to the batteries.  Physically I have the wires from the power supply and the lead wores connected together at the terminals of the last battery in the parallel setup.  Is this correct or should I have one lead going to the positive terminal of the first battery and the other to the negative terminal of the last battery, or vice versa?  Seems to me that would equalize both the charge and the load distrubution between all 4 batteries whereas the way I have it now means that last battery is loaded and charged more than the other 3.
Or does matter at all?

73 Bill NZ0T

Thanks all.  After I posted I saw a note in the manual that a tone may be heard during transmit with no modulation do Heath was well aware of it and I guess no fix was possible.  It's a minor thing anyway.

I picked up one of the old HW-2036A Heaths today for free.  I have it working at the full 10 watts out and even got the adjustable sub audible tones set and working.  There is an audible underlying tone on the transmit signal no matter what I do with the tone switch.  It's weak but can be heard.  I'm wondering if this is the 833.333333 oscillator tone.  The manual does say a tone may be heard when there is no modulation.  If so is there any mod to get rid of it?

73 Bill NZ0T

I am putting ny tower back up after a move and i have a question about separation of antennas.  The plan is to put up, from the top, a Comet GP-3 vertical, a home brew 12/17 meter rotatable dipole and a Cushcraft A3 triband 3 element yagi.  I have about 10 feet of mast to work with above the tower.  I am thinking of putting the dipole about 3 feet below the vertical and then the A3 right at the bottom of the mast which would be about 7 feet below the dipole.  Is this enough separation to stop any interaction between the antennas?   

73 Bill NZ0T

Thank you - that sounds like a great way to do it!

I used the DX-A at our old QTH on a 40' tower with a 3 element tribander and 2 meter vertical.  It worked very well for me but be aware that a sloper needs to have a beam type hf antenna at the top of the tower acting as a capacity hat and a good ground system at the bottom to work well.  I have a friend that home brewed a 160 sloper with a loading coil and it worked very well for him.

Again, this is the 3rd house I will use the house bracket on and I am well aware of the noise/movement issue.   The house is a 125 year old 2 story one and very sturdily built.  I plan to put the bracket as high as possible so there will not be a lot of the 40' tower extending above the bracket which should limit the movement and noise.  The ground here is very rocky and I really don't want to dig the hole required for a stand alone tower so using a smaller base and the bracket is much preferred.  Thanks for the input!

This will be the 3rd house I have used the house bracket on so I know how to attach it securely but I appreciate the input anyway.  The previous 2 times I didn't have to deal with vinyl siding thus my question.  I'll plan on removing the siding and insulation - there is extra siding in the barn so I can always replace what was cut out if the tower needs to be moved.

Thanks again!

I'm trying to plan ahead, for a change, for raising my tower this spring.  I plan to house bracket the 25G through the wall into the attic in the usual way but this house has vinyl siding that is backed by foam insulation and then the original wood siding from 1885.  Any ideas on how I can attach the bracket snugly without crushing the siding and vinyl?  My first thought is to use a piece of 2 X 6 over the siding to spread the force out.  I really don't want to remove the siding and foam but maybe that's the only way.

73 Bill NZ0T

I am planning to add the N1EL keyer to my 430.  This keyer kit outputs an audio signal that can be injected into a rigs audio chain so the keyer's response to menu commands can be heard in the speaker/headphones. I am looking for the easiest way to inject that audio and looking at the circuit description ans schematic in the service manual it looks to me that the output of Q46 on the IF board or the input of the AF gain control would work.  I'm not real confident in my ability to determine this and would greatly appreciate any guidance as to if I'm correct or if there is a better place to do this.

73 Bill NZ0T