Do a search on " demodulator probe " for an idea of what the pointy end of the project looks like. You can use it with your multimeter - or - consider building a modest single chip audio amplifier (like an LM-386) to drive a small speaker.

Ain't nothin' to it.

Real Men _[tm] know they can download the DejaVu reader here:  http://www.djvu.org/
Ain't no thing, I have it on both the Linux and Windoze side of this machine and I like it better than PDF....... Tighter file compression with cleaner rendering of greyscale illustrations.

Click this...  And this.

You're Welcome.     

BTW:  These always draw serious coin.  Never understood the appeal myself, but they do have a following.

It's know solder, not no solder.........................   

http://members.tripod.com/tubes_tubes_tubes/transformerrewindingservice/id63.html

(?)

Unplug the antenna from the radio. Do you still hear blips when something is turned on or off?

If you do the power supply may have poor filtering or a touch of overshoot when the AC voltage changes, but I'm going to guess the blips go away. That's because something common to all three antennas is near enough to house wiring, street wiring, or a drop transformer that it can read the mail on your AC power service Q-5. Also possible your feedline has some shielding issues. Ladder line or coax?

A little tweak & listen could be the fix, starting with whatever might be common to everything. (?)

Late last year I discovered that applying 120vac across the test leads of an entry level Centech DMM from Harbor Freight while the big knob was in the Ohms position was not a good idea.

No smoke, no fire, and no Ohms from that moment forward.  The fuse survived without a scratch.

Open up the $2.00 meter to look for a $3.00 fuse protecting the Ma range................ 

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With a traditional VTVM it's good practice to zero the DC voltmeter (leads shorted) and check the ohmmeter for infinity (leads open) whenever the range switch is changed.

On some meters there is a compensation adjustment to minimize the spread between ranges, which is a good thing, but for routine troubleshooting you don't need spot-on accuracy for every measurement. If the schematic says +150 vdc on pin whatever and you read +153 volts that's more than close enough. If you really want to know, zero the meter then measure again. It's also very easy to read the wrong scale if you don't stay in practice with an analogue meter and I freely admit I've been spoiled by the autorange feature on a Fluke 77 purchased 30 years ago..............

I have soldered leads to both sides of a CR-2032 without incident, but it's definitely an exercise in speed soldering and will damage the battery (or worse) if done poorly. This may not be possible with the thinner CR-2025 and CR-2016 coin cells.

Allow the iron plenty of time to come up to full temperature. Measure the battery voltage while waiting. Create a small solder island on one side of the battery. Do this as quickly as possible and look for a smooth & shiny surface when done. Allow this to cool, then make another on the opposite side. Allow the battery to cool. Generously tin the wires to be attached then press them into the solder islands with the tip of the iron. Every contact between the soldering iron and battery should be around 2 seconds or less.

With a little skill and a little more luck you'll have a solid pair of tack-soldered connections and the battery voltage will test the same as it did at the start. If the voltage is noticeably less you've cooked the battery and should consider an alternate plan........ 

New to you may not be "new", but if you see a number like 3297 (or 9732) printed apart from the usual stuff that could be a date code for the 32nd week of 1997. I have parts in my stash that are over 40 years old and look like they came off the line last month. If the condensers are not of the Twist-Lok (coaxial) persuasion it's easy to get the polarity reversed and that's worth a second look. As a general rule any electrolytic I install gets (at least) an ohmmeter trickle-down test. Looking for a slow resistance rise to infinity on a 20 meg DMM. Not the definitive word in quality assurance, but it only takes a moment and every once in a great while I'll catch a part better suited for the circular file.............

Congrats on passing the tech test with maximum room to spare, give yourself a week or two for a mental reset then start studying the general while your cerebral sponge is still damp.

Some folks see their first ticket as a destination when it's really a starting point......... Play it right and you'll learn something new every few days for a long time to come.   

Most internet polling risks being tainted by the crackpot factor....... As a general rule I throw out the most positive and most negative reviews on the assumption the middle of the curve is probably nearest to reality.

It's also a safe bet you can discount any interview that begins with: " The XXXXXXXX I won on eBay came in yesterday and......... "

Anyone who thinks they won anything on eBay shouldn't be doing a review, especially when its based on their first impression. The "winner" of any auction is the bidder with the most inflated opinion of what the goods are worth which does not make them smarter than the bidders who knew better.