Years ago one of the Ham magazines did a write up on some of the more unusual items that Unca' Sam had on his big olive drab test bench. The BC-221 was one of them...  Not because of the design sophistication or exceptional parts quality, but because each meter had an extensive calibration procedure.

IIRC, each unit coming off the line was tuned to a long list of calibration frequencies.  The knob settings for each frequency was recorded on a typed reference card specific for that meter, possibly in duplicate.  The field operator would tune an unknown signal then compare the knob settings against the calibration card.  This was a very time consuming manufacturing process and given the large number of BC-221's on the surplus market the question became how-in-the-hell were they able to calibrate that many meters before the war ended?

It's one thing to crank out combat boots in quantity, but a boot doesn't need to be documented in detail........

I posted the URL as this particular example appears to have aged gracefully and thanks to the fungus proofing has historic provenance.  For all I know the cal card is also dated, but one glance tells you it's the real deal from 1944.  Which is why Vinnie wants it.   

The operative concept here is the alleged phrase: "up to a 1:10 SWR".

There are many ways to get to 10:1 in terms of reactance values and as you've discovered there is a consideration for the frequency.  Design a matching circuit for 160 and another for 10 with the same matching range and the physical differences should be obvious.

Before you spend more money, try a little experiment:  If it's not too inconvenient, lower the free end of your 120' longwire and fold 8' to 10' of the wire back on itself.  Just fold it over so the antenna looks that much shorter.  Alternatively, temp-splice a 10' length of scrap wire on the free end and let it dangle.  A slight change in the size of the antenna could be all you need to move the reactance to a place where the tuner can deal with it.

BTW:  If you really want to spend money, just send it to me...... All donations are gratefully accepted.

This is one of those judgement call questions... 

On one hand, the radio is old enough that putting any serious money into accessories is probably not a good idea. At any moment the radio could smoke an expensive part and then you have a fully optioned doorstop. OTOH, there can be the occasional opportunity to snarf up a cheap parts rig so it might not take much cash to keep it going - if - you're willing to learn the art and science of preserving the UJHAT... Universal Japanese Hybrid Amateur Transceiver.

In this case, a factory digidial for an FT-101E is probably a rare bird considering how few sold back in the day. Lots of people wanted them, but they were expensive and when it came to spending the coin... Not so much. There's also the Charlie Brown effect to consider. FT-101's fetch more than what I think they're worth on zBay and I've seen the same at local Hamfests 'cuz the skip shootin' big signal Freeband operators will pay a premium for them.

Woo-Hoo.  That means the rest of us do too.

Note To KG7AFA:  Back in the day Ham folks learned how to use the crystal calibrator to stay within the band edges and didn't worry too much about being exactly on 14.280.0000000000000 MC's. But somehow they managed to work the world. Collected thousands of QSL cards. Make the DXCC Honor Roll.

No kidding... They really did, and you can too, even with an analogue dial.........!

Lest we forget, each mode has a duty cycle that affects the current drawn from the radio. There's also the RF power adjustment to consider.

If you're running RTTY bulletins at full power you will be very close to the maximum rating for the radio.  You should also realize that dropping power from 100 to 80 watts for a mode like RTTY could avoid a premature equipment failure with little affect at the other end of the Q.  SSB at 100 watts PEP is like FM at maybe 60-ish watts unless you're James Earl Jones and have the speech compression cranked to the max.  The duty cycle of CW depends on the speed and to some extent on the fist sending it.

Point being that for normal SSB @ 100 watts PEP a 20 amp Astron is more than adequate.  Especially for a temporary / portable setup when size, cost and weight are considerations.  If you think you have to run full rated power to make Q's you're either new at this or have a G5RV in your attic.  With a halfway decent antenna and normal band conditions 50 watts of RF is more than enough to do business.

OTOH, there are Hams who wouldn't dream of calling CQ at less than 400 watts because they have a linear and it makes no sense not to use it for every Q........  Part 97 be damned.   

............shame on you for suggesting the venerable HazWaste-101 from Heathshkit is anything less than perfection wrapped in Benton Harbor green!

Apparently you didn't realize the top line of my reply....... The text in blue......... Is a link to the spec sheet for an LM-350K three pin regulator.  Possibly one of the easiest ways to build a regulated power supply.  My apologies for not making that painfully obvious.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE DATA SHEET FOR A BUTT-SIMPLE THREE PIN VOLTAGE REGULATOR CHIP

What a coincidence.......... I remember cleaning out the garage around 2007 and I'm pretty sure I threw out a big box of........

If you really want to build a small-ish tube amplifier for your HT you'll ether spend way too much on the parts or take forever to acquire all the pieces through the miracle of scrounging.  Places like RF Parts and others can hook you up with RF power modules that are cheap, reliable and require no support parts containing 15% unobtanium... AKA:  U-15

Or, you could research a vintage schematic using the venerable 2E26.  That's the mid power version of a 6146 that's good up to 175 MHz.  Figure 25 watts Class C for ICAS duty on 2 Meters. Most repeaters have a three minute timeout so you shouldn't smoke the tube on your first Q...........

ZRA-ZUZ South Africa (Republic of) (Also See S8)  ZS Callsign Zones

...... ZR, ZS, ZT, ZU So Africa (ITU Zone 57 CQ Zone 38) [lat -30 long 25.8] {start 11/15/45}
...... ...... ZS1 Cape Province
...... ...... ZS2 Eastern Cape Province
...... ...... ZS3 Northern Cape Province
...... ...... ZS4 Freestate Province
...... ...... ZS5 Kwazulu-Natal Province
...... ...... ZS6 Gauteng / Mpumalanga
              ZS7 Antarctica
              ZS8 Marion Is (ITU Zone 57 CQ Zone 38 [lat -46.8 long 37.8] {start 11/15/45}

http://www.ac6v.com/prefixes.htm#Z

Whenever you need info on metal refinishing your best sources will probably be related to auto body or antique auto restoration / custom fabrication.  The hot rod guys have some experience with the concept.  Also worth remembering is that DuPont and Sherwin Williams are key players in the paint & coatings industry.  If anyone can set you up with 'the good stuff' for metal preservation it may well be your local Sherwin Williams paint store or auto body supply shop.

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/home/home.html

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/regions/north-america/

It has been years since I've looked into industrial or marine coatings but I recall the US Navy spends something like $80 a quart for black anti-fouling hull paint.  Rehab Rush could make you believe that's expensive until you figure what it would cost to refurbish an aircraft carrier rotted out below the water line.  Good paint doesn't come cheap but it's a bargain by comparison...   

If it works don't fix it.

What you have is either a parts sub or a running revision. For all you know the original design would motorboat at low battery voltage.

Yeah, base of Q3 or the same side of R80 if that's more convenient. Best bet is the use a 10:1 probe on your 'scope.

As for the values of C63 and C65, fuhgedaboudit. They're DC blocking condensers on the output end of IC3, the audio power amp. Based on my experience they're too large, but for all I know the chip likes 'em that way.

True enough regarding an open wire feeder, but why so selective on the coax impedance?

Betcha' a TS-520 would load a dipole fed with RG-59 or RG-11 just like it was still 1978 and the bands were wide open.............!