Motorola radios are rugged, but waaaay overpriced.  The software is extremely hard to come by because Motorola used to actively pursue those who didn't buy it directly from them but used bootlegged copies.

Kenwood software is easier to come by, but the radios are a little less rugged.  The control buttons or switches on Kenwood radios can be reprogrammed too--something that wasn't possible on Motorola radios in the past.  I don't know about now.  

I used to install Motorola units, but lately have been doing more and more Kenwoods and less Motorola--and the Motorola unit I put in come already set up.  The Kenwoods I set up myself.  

Don't even bother with Maxon, its a dying breed.  Icom does have some, but the software is as difficult to get as Motorolas.  I don't know about Johnson at all, ditto GE, which I believe is Maxon compatible.

After all that, I second the recommendation of two separate radios.  It will be far cheaper and easier.  

One other thing to remember is that not only do CBers outnumber hams, CBers have 1 band with 40 channels which include 1 emergency channel (9) and 1 road use specific channel (19).

Hams have many bands and aren't limited to preset channels--they can go to any one of hundreds of frequencies.  On one of the bands, 2 meters--which seems to be the most popular among all hams, there is a calling channel (146.52) that serves as a channel to 'go to' for any reason, emergency, aid, directions, and plenty of others.

Due to the number of repeaters giving hams a lot of other frequencies to listen to, that channel is not monitored closely.

CBers are greater in number and they usually monitor just one frequency compared to many.  Is it any wonder CBers usuallu always answer?  I don't think so.

Oh, and I still have an emergency package CB radio in my car--because I know it still may be useful.

"Well... it is sort of like squishing a vertical into a bird cage... you can either think of it as a leaky tank circuit or an end loaded, very short helical vertical.

The actual linear dimensions of the antenna will set, more or less, the radiation resistance, and the loss resistance will mostly come from the resistive component of the coil (which seems to me to be wound with too-fine wire)."

It is plain the units are magnetic loop antennas with a few 'refinements' added to increase effiency.  The wire used for the coils--at least in the units I have--is 14 gauge solid copper wire.  Too fine?  I suppose you could say that if you were running 1500 watts into it, but the unit is rated for 500 watts.

Anyway, these antennas are for the amateurs that want something to show off with--not for the serious communicator.  A wire out the window is better for reception and, using a tuner, certainly better for transmission.

The information I'm pointing out here is second hand, and I don't know the source, but it was claimed the Isotron worked because of the surface area of the antenna top and bottom and the diameter of the coil that sits between them.  In other words, it is somebodys idea of squashing a vertical into a bird cage--which is what the Isotron looks like.

I was given two of them, a twenty meter and a forty meter, and in experimenting with them, I find they do receive signals, but then, so would a coathanger.  They present the appearance of a full sized antenna to the transmitter, but do not get the signal out as far.

In short, they are good compromise antennas if you only have a small area to mount an antenna.  If you do have the area, all most any antenna will do better--much better.

Overheating is the most probable cause--overheating made the cement holding the metal caps on the tunes brittle--too brittle to do its job properly--and probably caused the solder in that cap to flow and bond to the cap connector.

I believe there is a compound that is similar to never-seize that may be able to be used on the connection, but I'm not sure.  Does someone else know??

Geez, you like to play, or what?  Six posts?

ONE IS SUFFICIENT!

The application you are researching is only for use of VLF signals.  (Very low frequency)  It is intended to transmit information into the sea for signalling submarines, since in years past the VLF signals were the only signals able to reach a submarine at depth.

There is no practical use for such an antenna for the ham radio bands, it just won't work.

Even though rated at 20 amps they aren't intended for a high amperage device
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"That's odd. I wonder why they rate them for 20A and install a 20A fuse if they aren't intended to handle 20A?"
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Bob, I never said they won't deliver 20 amps--they will.  But I can't count the times I've seen items plugged into one of them which weren't drawing 20 amps, but were drawing enough to make those accessory sockets heat up and melt!  The items I speak of are small 120 volt inverters, convenience compressors, hand held spotlights and other items some of those enterprising companies have out on the market nowadays.  

Given the point that the cigar lighter socket was never intended to be a power supplying point to begin with and the lighter plug was invented to use the socket as a convenience for the motorist, it stands to reason the later evolution of these "power sockets" was just to continue the convenience.

Would you use a lamp cord as an extension for a table saw?  You can--but it just isn't safe, right?  Same thing for those power sockets--sure, they'll deliver 20 amps, but the design of the socket and the plug made to go in it just isn't adaquate--or safe--for 20 amps.

 

After seeing another post, I have to make a comment that those cigarette lighter socket--or even the accessory outlets--are seldom clean and never tight.  Those are just another reason NOT to use them.

The power sockets you refer to are intended for use of low amperage loads such as cell phone adapters or handheld radio power adapters.  Even though rated at 20 amps they aren't intended for a high amperage device.  Add to that the unpredictability of a good connection--those plugs wiggle far too much--and the very real possibility of serious overheating of the plug/socket, and you'll realize why so many hams do not use them.

As far as Scotchlock connectors, they are even worse than those accessory sockets.  They are made for convenience and speed, not for reliability or a good connection.  Those connectors always cut through some of the strands of the wire they are fastened to.  For a good solid connection, both mechanical and electrical, a wrapped splice is the better way to go and a soldered wrapped splice is the best.

I'll second the use of a 2 meter 1/4 wavelength whip.  The length of a little over 19 inches also makes it a good antenna for the 70 cm band.

The reasons are many and varied.  First, even though the radio only draws about 8 to 9 amps, there are other electrical circuits on the fuse that feeds the lighter.  Even though those other circuits drawing current at the same time may not blow the fuse, they can cause problems such as voltage drops or spikes.  

As an aside, I sometimes wonder if the cigar lighter power connector plug was invented by an ex insurance salesman with a vindictive streak!

In some modern cars, the lighter fuse feeds an 'electronic lighting control module' because the lighter fuse usually also feeds the courtesy lamp circuit.  Depending on the wiring configuration, it may also be feeding other electrical circuits that are drawing power through that same fuse while you're driving the car.  Also don't forget that the lighter element only draws about 5 or 6 amps and it isn't drawing that for longer than a few seconds.  

As Alan said, the usual underdash wiring is 16 gauge, but there are cars on the road (I can point to Japanese, I know about the crummy wiring in some of them) that use 18 or even 20 gauge wire in some circuits.  

Voltage drop--even momentary, when the transmitter is keyed--can damage ham rigs and or inject unwanted noise into the outgoing signal--even at reduced power.  Add to that the possibility of damaging the car electronics by that voltage variation and the cost of the repairs that would be needed to get you back on the road if that were to happen, and you can see the wisdom of direct wiring to the battery for your radio.  

You do NOT necessarily have to make any permanent holes in the car to get wiring through the firewall, there are holes there already.  Two of the most obvious are the hole to get the antenna cable to the front fender and the hole for the heater blower wiring.  Both these holes are grommeted, two twelve gauge wires can be gotten through one of those grommets fairly easily.  When removed there is no obvious signs left that those wires were ever there.  

Don't forget to fuse the connections at the battery.  Go this route, and you won't be taking the chances of cutting your vacation short by having to pay out of your funds for an on-the-road repair from the use of the cigar lighter for what it was never intended to do.

Check with the ARRL section you are in--they can steer you to the local ARES people.  Another way is to contact your local city or town government, looking for the local emergency management agency.  Get in touch with them and they can tell you if there are any ham operators in RACES you can contact.

As Bob said, it is both rewarding and aggrevating.  I would advise going the ARES route through your ARRL section to begin, and them see if you can get onboard with the local EMA where you are.

Good ol. Marty is next--he probably got his stuff at his local truck stop.  The feds got the listings of who bought what and they'll be knocking on his door any day now.....

Kenwood seems to be going into the commercial 2 way radio market in a big way in the last few years.  Maybe they're just going with the money.  Maybe their 'Sky Command' system was their next big step forward and they're just waiting for the regs to loosen up some--like they just have.  We'll just have to wait and see.

You did the first thing right--by posting and asking here--continue to ask here if you can't find answers.  Just don't let the naysayers and flamers scare you away--ignore their posts.  There are plenty of good competent hams on this site that will be happy to help you out!

Take care and good luck!