".....It's generally a Ham-myth that something improper the homeowner does will result in claim denial. They may tell you they will cancel you in the future, but as an almost universal rule insurance companies can't deny a claim based on homeowner stupidity or accidents because someone doesn't know better than to do something....."

Whoa, there--before you're misinterpreted, this isn't entirely true.  In some localities, homeowners are allowed to do their own wiring--if they know what to do.  True, it should be inspected after it is done, but how many of us have put in a new circuit and not had it inspected?  

The best rule of thumb here is this:  If the addition is considered a permanent part of the house, it better be done correctly and to code.  If it isn't and is determined to be cause of any future problem resulting in a claim, the insurance company may well deny payment.  If you don't think they can tell when work is done, think again.  Changes in the way materials are made can be traced back and age can be determined.

There again, if the work is a 'temporary' addition, say a grounding busbar on the back of a moveable bench, and not attached permanently to the building, then the insurance company has less choice in the matter.  It all depends on local ordinances, your insurance agent, and the insurance company.

Oh yes, for a ground plane, try the underside of a card table--if metal, it is almost exactly the right size!

W3LK is right, don't mess with the adjustments if you:

a: don't have an external SWR meter--and a good one, not a cheapie.
b: aren't sure what you're doing--exactly sure.

A 1.7 to 1 SWR reading on the meter on your rig indicates a good match--messing with the antenna sections to try to get it lower on 2 meters will make it higher on 440 mhz.

Any SWR reading lower than 2 to 1 is good.  Trying to make it better will most times only make it worse over all.

Sorry for the double answer, accidently hit the post button twice!

What is the make and model of the swr meter?  Some of them aren't any good for anything over 50 mhz (6 meters).  Yours may be one of them.

What is the make and model of the swr meter?  Some of them aren't any good for anything over 50 mhz (6 meters).  Yours may be one of them.

You may want to consider an unbalanced system--a single wire out of the shack , up to the eaves and around the half of the building away from the power line.  Grounding the receiver well may increase the reception somewhat.

If the receivers you have have adaquate noise suppression, you may be able to do the loop idea you have drawn, that is a continuous loop around the building, ignoring the power lines nearby.  Usually for a receiver antenna, the longer the better.

Oh, yes, if they have a wireless computer internet access system they are using, that may also be the cause.  73--again!

One question, do they have a pool?  Even a small one, if it has a filter, may be causing your problem.  Another thing may be if they have any sort of timed equipment they have installed since they've moved in, such as outdoor lighting (the 24 volt pathway variety) a lawn sprinkler, or any one of a number of things.

As a last question, did they bring a newer plasma type TV with them?  Plasma TVs are notorious for noise problems.  Hope this helps!  73.

Oh, boy, I'm slipping.  I missed your last question entirely.  To answer it, ALL the grounding points (ground rods) around any building HAVE TO BE INTERCONNECTED.  This is to eliminate the possibility of a charge (lightning strike) at one ground rod going through the building wiring to get to another ground rod that has a better 'grounding potential'.

If you don't connect then together using heavy ground wire, #6 at the very least, the lightning charge may well go through the building wiring, starting a nice fire on the way there!

On further examination and research, the power point connection under the dash seems to have been included with an auxiliary lighting package.  Even though it may be able to supply the current you need, it would be cheap insurance to wire directly to the battery.  I definitely would.

Also, sorry coming in so late with a reply.  Sometimes you just don't see an area where you could help.

You say your house was wired before cable modems and ethernet was common.  It sounds like you have pre-broadband era cable for your tv runs--and the problem may be because of that.  The cable that was used to wire in house TV systems, although useable for cable TV, really isn't of the best quality for modern cable frequencies, and isn't shielded to the extent that the new cable TV cable is.  If one of the cables were pinched or kinked or could be shorted, that could worsen your problem.  

Remember that current, and to a lesser extent signal, seeks out the easiest path to ground.  If the co-ax is damaged or shorted, most of the signal strength could be going to that cable leaving little signal strength to the other branches.  Signal leakage out is also a problem, just as interference (noise) coming in is.

As much as possible, have the cables examined both for damage or crushing and to see what type cable is being used for the runs.  Disconnect any cables that seem to be damaged and see if conditions improve with them disconnected.  Although there will be leakage at an unused splitter port, it probably won't be as bad as to a damaged cable.  As an alternative and if you have the equipment or can get it, check each cable for any shorting or damage.  If there are old cable types being used, you may have to have them replaced to cure the problem.

Oh, the two way splitter to split the cable TV from the broadband internet modem and running a new cable to your modem from the two way splitter is still the best way to insure you have the cleanest and fastest connection to the web, both in and out of your modem.  Good luck and 73.  

Your station should have a point where the cables pass into the house where you can permanently mount lightning protection.  The best way to do so is by having a panel with connectors on it to ground the outer braid, most easily accomplished by using pass through connectors and PL 259s, N connectors, etc.

I understand Polyphaser products have some sort of a panel that provides just that along with their already good lightning protection.  If you have any sort of antenna system and don't already have that panel, I suggest you've missed one of the most important parts of a good system.

Check your owners manual.  There should be a page in there dedicated to that 'power point connection' stating how much current can be safely supplied at that point.  

I still feel the best and safest way to power any ham rig is to run separate wires through the firewall directly to the battery--you will avoid overloading the car electrical system and picking up stray electrical noise that way, but to each his own.