There is another way to look at this, one that I believe the FCC is indicating.  Although the Element 1 test would be eliminated, the current licensing structure will stand.  There are no automatic upgrades, no added privileges, and no elimination of privileges.  

In other words, even though there may not be a code test anymore, element 1 credit will continue to be used to ascertain privileges on the bands.  A tech class with element 1 credit will continue to be able to use HF to the limits he or she previously enjoyed while the tech class who did not pass element 1 will NOT gain HF privileges automatically.

The NPRM did say that it concerned only morse code testing and nothing else including any automatic upgrading.

The test may be going away, but the credit for passing it isn't, and there won't be any privileges automatically available.

Hey Pilot7, have you checked the radiator?  ;-)

Your radio needs repair then.  What is gone is more than likely a switching transistor.  Did you or someone else plug another cable into the mic jack, maybe a network cable or a cable from a packet controller?  It sounds like there was something either shorted or a voltage or current introduced to the radio thru the mic plug.  

This points out the real reason the RJ plugs aren't a good idea--its way too easy for someone to plug something else into that jack and damage the radio!  ;-)

I'm not too sure, but I believe the PTT switch is an open type cheapie--I do remember cleaning one of them once for a smoker.  The contacts were gummed up good, but the switch was easy to take apart.  Sometimes the stripping and soldering to that switch is shoddy, too.  I've actually seem one where just a little more wire movement would have shorted the wires together causing the rig to transmit continually.

As far as the other ops radio going right into transmit, does it do so when the mic is unplugged?  If not, and it goes into transmit as soon as you plug it in, the RJ plug is probably shorted.  It can happen easily if the mic cord has been pulled at (stretched) a lot.

Hope this helps you both!  73.

Congratulations to you both.  It is rare when both marriage partners are ham radio nutz, er, operators, ah heck, I'll go with choice #1.  After all, us hams are all a little nutz!!

No offence intended, but as it is always said, hams are cheap.  If that pipe is good and solid, why don't you spend the extra ten bucks and get the mount kit made to secure a mast to the vent pipe?  It would beat drilling holes in the vent pipe and chance weakening it and having it snap off.  Carrying your antenna with it, BTW.

Tha mount I am referring to is available at most Radio Shack stores, it is one of the last items they carry that is left over from their original stock line.  As I said, the cost is about ten bucks.

An artificial ground won't help you much.  You would be better off sticking with radials.  You don't have to stick with just copper wire, just about any conductor will work--aluminum, or even steel (although that will rust out fast).  If you can, visit your local metal recycling yard.  You can probably find a short length of telephone cable there for low cost.  If you find a ten foot section of fifty pair cable, you'll have plenty of wire for radials.

Oh, my, what a "warp"ed sense of humor!!

"As some have said the way to ensure a good connection is to solder the crimp, so why not just solder it in the first place. I have hundreds of 30 Amp power poles in use in both amatuer and commercial applications, all soldered."

It is ALWAYS a good idea to make a good mechanical connection before soldering the connection.  Simply soldering the wire to the connector pin may work most of the time, but if the connection should become heated, the solder may soften--and the wire will pull out of the connector if there is any strain on it.  With a secure mechanical connection, that will not happen.

I'm not trying to start a flamefest here, but replacement powerpole terminals won't put that much of a strain on your budget and are readily available, so why worry about saving and reusing them?  

I think there is a saying that may be applicable here....what is it?  Oh, yes, "Penny wise and pound foolish?"  Also, if you value your equipment--and your professional reputation in commercial installations-- don't cut corners to save a few pennies, you'll end up paying more in the end.  73!

Steve,

Powerpole connectors come in both types, the barrel type which you are referring to and the 'series of folding-and-clamping die forms' type, which is common to the molex style.

The most popular is the compression style, which I believe is the 30 amp type.  That type will not be secured well by a molex type crimper--the crimper which forms the sleeve into a 'u' should be used..  

The 45 amp type, however, is the same as the molex style where the wire is secured by the action of folding the metal down over the wire from both sides--just like the molex system.

The method used should be according to the type powerpole connector you have.  73.



 
 

Ben,

Without starting an argument here, have you learned things about ham radio you didn't know when you first got your license?  If you say no, you are either a liar, a know-it-all, or a god.  You know you've learned things--a little known fact here, a new possibility there, and so on.

Carl has obviously learned things just as I have, and just as almost every other ham has.  There is always something to learn in hamdom because ham radio is forever changing and technology is always evolving.  So what if he passed the licensing exam the way he did.  He has more than likely learned much since then, enough to help his son pass his license exam when he takes it so his son can continue learning more.  I think ham radio is one of the better, more educational activities a father and son can take up together.

I'm sorry to have to put it this way, but I think you're one of the sour-grapes who say todays ham has missed out on what hams who got their license the old way learned.  I said it in another thread, and I'll say it here:  Todays hams haven't missed out on much, especially the animosity of some hams who got their license the old way and think todays hams aren't hams because they didn't go through the same thing.

73,  Chris, K1CJS

Even if you passed the exam by taking it multiple times until you were sure of the answers, you have obviously learned something.  Don't let anybody sell you short--the tech ticket is the entry pass so you can learn more.  You have learned more than you knew, haven't you?

With the "Now You're Talking" book, both you and your son may extend your knowledge base.

Remember, for some die-hards ham radio may be their life, but it is still a hobby.  So, have fun and enjoy yourself!

It may work--and it may not.  If the powerpole connector has an open top where you put the wire, go with it.  I have a radio shack crimper that has different sized jaw openings for different sized molex type connector pins, and it works fine for the powerpoles I use.

However, if the powerpole has a barrel type opening to put the wire into, a standard type wire crimper (the type for insulated terminals) should be used--it crimps the terminal down more securely on the wire.

One other thing--after the mechanical crimp is done, I always solder the connection, just to make it more secure and less likely to pull out of the terminal.  You may have other ideas, but once crimped, the terminal is used and almost always cannot be reused--so soldering it doesn't make a difference.

Instead of a mixer, how about a switch?  A multi position switch will let you listen to the one set you're using at the time.  If you want your two meter set on and squelched, use another plug-in speaker with a plug and jack in frontof it so you can get the output to your big speaker if you're running two meters for a while.

Try using a half wave antenna mounted on a homebrew mounting bracket attached to your spare tire mount.  The half wave will work well without the need for a ground plane and the spare tire mount is made to take a lot of strain in the first place--the antenna mount won't add that much more.

I've used that kind of set-up on a tractor trailer cab, (mounted on the mirror bars) and it has worked well for me.  Good luck and 73.