I went the way of finding the local ham club and asking around there.  There is always a chance someone may have a rig or a handi-talkie that they'll be willing to let you borrow or buy used for much less than you'll spend for a new one.  

I got a dual band handi-talkie with a AA clamshell battery holder, a rechargeable ni-cad pack and a desktop charger for $125. used that way--of course that was almost ten years ago.

Failing that, do a web search for ham radio stores and contact the nearest one.  A single band (2 meter)rig and antenna can be had for less than $200. and handi-talkies can be gotten for less than $140--both new.  Either would be enough for you to get your feet wet without the need for spending more for rigs with bands you may not be using right away.

When it comes time, you can sell your rig and or trade up to another that you want.

Good luck, and remember--have fun!

For a few bucks, buy a molex connector fron Rat Shack (if you can still find them there, that is) and use the pins fron it to redo the harness you just bought.  If you're careful, you can get the right size pins for both the mating pins and still have them lock into the connector body.

Another way is to either expand or compact the pins now in the connector--contract (squash then together) if the pin is a female one, expand them if male.

Borrow or buy a pipe wrench with a long handle, or just use a shorter one and a length of iron pipe.  Clear the first few inches at the top of the rod, put the wrench on it and start walking around in a circle while pulling up.  Once the first few inches come up, you can usually pull the rest out much easier.  No water, no mess, no soggy shoes.

Reusing the rod is a mistake, though, unless the rod is fairly new.  You'll be much better off using a new ground rod.  

Sorry, I put a word in where it shouldn't be--the last sentence in my post should have the 'while' removed.  It should read:

BTW, the old panels worked by the interruption of voltage on the lines, newer ones use different methods, which is why newer systems can sense trouble conditions the older ones could not.

73!  :-)

".....you might also be able to stop some of the problems by connecting capacitors to the alarm wiring and then direct to ground, chosen to pass the frequency where you are having the most problem."

I would be might careful about connecting capacitors to the system wiring--in some cases it may change the characteristics of the system causing problems with the system and possibly more than with just the system.

Also, it is common with some of the systems out there that the individual parts of the system are owned by the alarm company--which is why when the contract expires and is not renewed, the company sends someone out to remove the system from the home.  Most of the time, it is only the panel and keypads that are removed, but getting back to tampering with the system, you would not want to get caught messing around with a panel that doesn't belong to you.  Some of the panels are only a couple hundred dollars retail, but imagine getting a bill for a high end panel which could end up being for $600 to $700 or more!

Also, if the system false alarms, some municipalities are now charging a fee for the police responce after the first couple of false alarms, so either way if you're not sure of what you're doing you may end up paying for it--possibly big time.

Call your alarm company and ask about it--they can always call the panel manufacturer and inquire about adding RF supression so the systems won't be harmed, either by falsing or by circuitry changes.

BTW, the old panels worked by the interruption of voltage on the lines, newer ones use different methods, which is why newer systems can sense trouble conditions while the older ones could not.

I would recommend a clamp on mount before a magmount.  You say it is going on a Dodge Ram, but a van, SUV type, or pickup?  You don't specify, but it seems that you may need something stronger than a magnet mount.  Under rough driving conditions magmounts may detach and do damage to the Dodge or worse, to something around it.  

In any event, a mechanically attached antenna is better than a magmount any day.  A clamp on type mount that is used for (gasp ;-) ) CB antennas on 18 wheelers combined with a half wave antenna for 2 meters may be your best bet.  Good luck!  

Some of the newer security systems are prone to RF--depending on the system and the way it is wired.  These systems use different methods to monitor the wiring, (for obvious reasons I won't post specifics) and depending on the circuit, any reactance or coupling effects on the circuit can cause an alarm condition.  In addition, the panel itself may use a computer processor which may or may not make things worse.

To minimize the interference and possible false alarms, make sure the alarm wiring doesn't run parallel and in close proximity to your RF (and power) feed lines to your shack, and yes, use RF chokes on the sensor lines and on the power line that feeds the panel itself.  If possible, have the alarm company run their wiring in conduit where it is in close proximity to your shack area or RF feedlines.

If you do call your alarm company, be sure to specifically state the problem is related to radio transmitting equipment.  The reason for this is that some alarm companies out there may not have any technicians that are at all versed in the RF problems associated with alarm systems.  I was the only tech (out of 18 men) working for a company who even knew that RF interference could cause problems to an alarm system.  I doubt if those numbers have changed much with the techs today, though I hope I'm wrong.

Well, you can think the way you want to, of course, but just because your elmer did that doesn't mean it is the right way to do it.  I suppose the visitors (including other hams) to your shack would know already what that connection was for--or would they?  Can you watch them every second?  How about if some wanders into your shack and you're not right there?  

I still wouldn't recommend doing that to anybody--it IS too easy to be mistaken or just plain curious, and 115 volts AC isn't to be fooled around with.  In todays lawsuit happy world it just isn't worth it.

Use the proper connections, and NEVER use 115 volt or higher connections for anything other what they were intended to be used for.

It hasn't happened yet, and--don't hold your breath.  It probably won't happen for at least another year if at all.  The gov't moves so slowly on those things sometimes it is like they're going in reverse.

N4ZOU's suggestion:

".....buy a plastic electrical box suitable for use with a 115 VAC wall outlet.....buy a matching 115 VAC socket.....Your 300-ohm feed line to the antenna connects to the terminals and feeds through a hole you drill in the back. Do not use the ground terminal! Now look around at there selection of 115 VAC plugs. Find one that would be easy to connect to the feed line running to your tuner. ....."

I'm sorry but this is NOT a good idea--unless you like to live dangerously.  I definitely wouldn't trying this at all.

The one reason this isn't a good idea is this one:  If you're in a hurry or distracted, how easy is it to plug your tuner input line to a 115 volt outlet?  You may say because the shell isn't there it won't happen--but the 115 volt plugs and sockets are for 115 volt connections.  Using them for anything else is inviting trouble and disaster to happen.

The ugly posting out of sequence bug rears its ugly head yet again.....

N4ZOU's suggestion:

".....buy a plastic electrical box suitable for use with a 115 VAC wall outlet.....buy a matching 115 VAC socket.....Your 300-ohm feed line to the antenna connects to the terminals and feeds through a hole you drill in the back. Do not use the ground terminal! Now look around at there selection of 115 VAC plugs. Find one that would be easy to connect to the feed line running to your tuner. ....."

I'm sorry but this is NOT a good idea--unless you like to live dangerously.  I definitely wouldn't trying this at all.

The one reason this isn't a good idea is this one:  If you're in a hurry or distracted, how easy is it to plug your tuner input line to a 115 volt outlet?  You may say because the shell isn't there it won't happen--but the 115 volt plugs and sockets are for 115 volt connections.  Using them for anything else is inviting trouble and disaster to happen.

Simple answer:  You'll cause yourself more problems and get worse results.  Use a selector switch and two different antenna systems.  Your radio will thank you for it.

Topping off NiMH batteries does no damage to them, but doing the same to NiCd batteries constantly will actually 'kill' the useful life of the battery in time because of the memory factor.

Running the NiCds down and recharging them will get the most life and useage out of them, but topping them off once in a while because you need the battery fully charged for the next day won't hurt them--just don't do it regularly.

As far as chargers, stay away from the fast chargers unless you absolutely have to have a fully charged battery quickly--those chargers force the charge in--just burning up the batteries over time.  If you use a quick charger you can feel how warm the batteries get--that isn't good for any type of sealed cell battery.

Sorry, the end of my first paragraph should have read:

"....if you have the proof the installation was..."