Those devices work by using RF signalling, and it is a widespread problem.  If substituting another wall wart doesn't help (it may not be noisy when not connected to the unit but will be when it is) call Dish and have them send out a TECHNICIAN, not an INSTALLER.  It IS their responsibility to fix the problem, even if they don't think so.  Just be polite and tell them you're getting interference on your radios.  The 'Hopper' system is still so new that they may be happy to help you out.  If not....  Well, there is always the FCC RFI complaint people you can turn to. 

Sorry I couldn't be of any more help.  73!

If you believe that the RFI is going through the house wiring, the first thing you should look to do is to actually find out if that is the case.  It will be easy if the subwoofer is powered by a wall wart.  Simply substitute another wall wart of the same voltage output (making sure that the replacement wall wart supplies AC or DC as the original one does) and the same polarity if it's a DC wall wart.

Check the other wall warts you may have in your house before you buy one--it may save you a few bucks.

If the subwoofer is powered by 110 volts, you'll have to take it apart to see what kind of power supply is in it--then do the same thing--that is, try substituting another power source.  If you're uncomfortable doing such work, have a friend (fellow ham) do it, or you'll simply have to try other things such as ferrites or capacitors.

There just isn't many other ways around it--and those other ways require test equipment you may not have.

BTW, if the subwoofer is fairly new, you may be able to exchange it.  Just a final thought.  73.

Thank you, 'YXB.  That is the link I tried to remember.  Thanks to you others, too.  73!

Why not simply look up the model number of the cartridge in the handle--that will usually give you a selection of tips (and their model numbers) that you can choose from.

If the temps are easily in the nineties OUTSIDE, then just think what they are like in a closed in, unventilated space such as your attic!  If you want to see, just go into your car after it's been closed up for an hour under the hot sun.  You'll probably find that that is COOL compared to the temp in your attic at that same time!

How about on a top shelf in a closet?  Your equipment will be far better off there.

In YOUR opinion.  Daisy chaining is not 'looping' ground connections.  I suppose you think a ground halo is 'looping' grounds too.  Many stations use several ground rods to increase their protection, especially commercial stations--and most of those use a building ground halo.

I think we had this discussion on another thread with you before, and I'm not going to go through it again.  It's sufficient to say that you had little idea what you were saying before--and still don't.  

The way things are said to be going, you'll be lucky if you do get an answer.  Not trying to be sarcastic, just realistic.

I remember reading somewhere of an organization that accepts older cell phones for reworking and donation to troops overseas.  Does anyone have the organzation name and address?  I have a few phones I'm looking to get rid of.

The only way to fix the 'tuning' is to do it in person.  How about having someone else do the climbing/adjusting?

Could be that there is a height difference or some slight difference in the tube diameter that the specific tubes were made for.  Envelope differences often existed and with certain manufactured electronic devices the specified tubes had to be used because of that, even though the tubes with the other IDs could have worked as well.

Yeah, it isn't surprising.  Comet quality control wasn't--and still isn't, it seems--the best.  I had one which I had to exchange to get a good antenna.  Still a Comet and the same model, but the difference between the two was like night and day.

First, there is more than one type of ground for radio work.  The ground on the house electrical system is a safety ground ONLY.  It isn't a RF ground nor a lightning protection ground.  Keep in mind that the NEC does demand that no matter what type ground it is, all grounds 'serving' a building must be bonded together.  

True, if your antenna system is properly constructed or of certain types, you may not need a RF ground.  But if you do, that ground must be bonded to the house electrical ground.

If the antenna system is surrounded by taller structures or natural terrain, you may not need a lightning ground either--but it's still a good idea to have one.  Not only does that type ground provide limited protection from a direct lightning strike, it also provides protection from transient surges--which the antenna may pick up from a nearby lightning strike.  A lightning strike produces high amounts of RF energy--which is what an antenna system is designed to pick up!  Consider too that static electricity is generated by the simple fact of wind blowing by an antenna structure, and the ground connection will prevent that from entering your shack through the incoming antenna leads as well.

The more ground rods, the more the transient charges picked up by the antenna will be shunted away from your equipment, and the more protection you will have for that equipment.  Since that RF energy does have voltage behind it, that ground system must also be bonded to the house electrical ground for the safety of anyone in the house.  If it isn't, you may become that 'bond' simply by touching your equipment while you're in contact with anything else that is connected to the house electrical system.  At that point, you may well cease worrying--about anything!

In short, the more ground rods, the more energy that can be dissipated BEFORE it enters your shack/home, and the safer you will be from unexpected weather changes.  It also follows that if you have NO grounding of your antenna system, any static electrical charges will drain right through your equipment.  If you hear static sometimes while operating with such an antenna system, that is why.

Whatever you do, good luck and 73.

I have, but we weren't talking about a sub panel, nor were we speaking of how the panels come from the manufacturer, were we?  You can always throw 'buts' or 'how abouts' into a discussion--way after the point of the discussion.  After all, the discussion was about the wire connections between the meter socket and the breaker panel is done, not sub panels, nor how new breaker panels from the manufacturer come!  All you're doing is muddying waters for those who really don't understand.  Do you know what 'nitpicking' means?

K7MH nailed it--'that you know about!'

It sounds like the rig has already been used as a parts rig, and as for the know being missing, could well be that it was taken off because it was better than the knob on another rig, and the other know was either n/g or was simply thrown out.

'WD has the right idea--don't spend substantial money on it until you're sure that it's worth while to do so.  73!

The last thing KB4QAA mentioned would be the first one I would check.  If you're running a power supply at it's capacity--or over it--the conditions you specify would be the result.  Also check every single connection from that supply to the rig, even where the wires transition to the fuseholder clips.  If the power supply rating is large enough, sufficient voltage drop could well develop over a single bad connection.  A quick way to check that is to feel the connections--a bad connection will most often heat up after a bit of use, heat being the way the power used is being dissipated.

Does your rig still exhibit the same symptoms if you use a lower power level?  If it doesn't, then you have a power supply problem somewhere.  Another thing to check--although unlikely-- is that the power supply is developing a fault.  Try running with a different supply or a battery to check that.  Good luck and 73!