I agree that Yaesu acessories are way overpriced; but why do you think it was a waste of money?

The cable is not that easy to make.  Try opening up the DB9 connecter and seeing what is inside.  

Also, the software works just fine, despite what some have posted on eHam.  You just have to follow the instructions.

I would not go for a DC to Daylight rig.  Too many features, too many ganged functions on a single control, most of the features aren't really necessary.

Go for simplicity.  Icom IC-718, Yaesu FT 840, Alinco DX77, etc.  

If you only want to receive AIS, and you are only interested in picking up data from ships nearby (colision hazards), a hank of wire sticking out the back of the receiver should be sufficient.

AIS channels are around 161.975 and 162.025 MHz.  The highest ship transmit frequency is 157.425 (ch. 88).  That gives you about 4 1/2 megs of separation.  You might get by with a filter, but cavities would be less risky.  Trouble is, VFH cavities take up a lot of space.


Here is the installation manual for one AIS receiver:
http://www.euronav.co.uk/Downloads/manuals/AI3000%20manual%20revIII.pdf
They recommend this:
"The AIS VHF antenna should be separated as much as possible from the voice VHF
installations used for main communication to avoid unnecessary interference. Best
separation is achieved by installing the antennas over each other or on separate sides of
the mast. The VHF antenna should be mounted at least 3 meters away from and out of
the transmitting beam of high-power transmitters or other VHF antenna installations."

I read somewhere that some manufacturers are working on VHF tranceivers with integral AIS receivers.  I'm guessing that these will use a single antenna.  Shakespeare and other antenna manufacturers already have broad-band antennas for transmitting both VHF-Marine voice and AIS.  It's a good bet that someone will come up with an inexpensive coupler to share an antenna with both.  Your solution may be just to wait.  Otherwise, it is either a second antenna, or a very expensive diplexer.

It would be much simpler to install a second antenna for AIS.  It wouldn't have to be much of an antenna for what you want.

Here is a combiner meant for what you suggest.  I'm sure that it cost many times the price of a cheap VHF marine antenna.

http://www.ultra-crea.fi/brochures/filters_ucacomb50.pdf

I would start with a simple analog meter like the Radioshack Cat # 22-223.  I have had a similar meter RS meter for about 30 years now.  Next to my #2 Phillips screwdriver, it's the handiest tool in my shack.

If you need more accuracy for measurements in low impedance circuits, you can add a meter with a FET input like the RS Cat # 22-811.  I have a similar meter that has done well.

The Radioshack equipment won't take the kind of abuse a Fluke will.  I use Flukes professionally, and they can take quite a beating and still keep on working.  But, for normal ham use, I wouldn't spend the money.

If you really do have a need to measure AC current over 10A, buy a clamp on digital meter with a sample & hold function like the Gardner-Bender Model GCM-221, $70 at Home Depot.

They look symetrical.

Don't forget to enable the new filters via menu selection 8-5.

Why start a new thread whan you can find all the info you want here:

http://www.eham.net/reviews/products/2

For what it's worth, I like Alpha-Delta switches.

Molex and Power Pole pins are different as night and day.  I used to work with Molex connectors a lot, so I spent the 7 bucks for the tool.  I have used long skinny needle nosed pliers in a pinch.  

I bought the removal tool for Power Poles too.  It doesn't work nearly as well as the Molex removal tool.

If you use menu 8-9 to offset the receive carrier point for USB and LSB, you can eliminate having to retune when you switch between the wide and narrow filters.
A value of -160 works well for me.

There is much good info on the below site.  MK V info is, for the most part, directly applicable to the MK V Field.

http://www.va3cr.net/default.htm

I use a 135 ft OCF (Off-Center Fed) dipole (which is often erroneously called a Windom).  It consists of a 4:1 balun, 45 ft of wire on one side and 90 ft of wire on the other.  It cost about $20 to build.  It works great on 80-40-20-10 without a tuner.  With a tuner, it works everything but 30 & 15.

If you put up a 40M version (22 ft on one side of the balun, 44 ft on the other) you should be able to work 40-20-10 without a tuner.  You'll have to experiment to see what you can work with a tuner.

The beauty of wire antennas is that they are so cheap to build, you can afford to try many designs.

A simple 40M dipole will work 40 & 15.  You can build one for less than $10.

I agree with previous posters:
Buy an ARRL Antenna Book and read it before you spend any more money on antennas.
You already own the vertical, use it.  I would add a trio of 8ft ground rods if you can't bury radials.
Consider a center-fed Zepp.  Just build the longest dipole that will fit on your lot, feed it with twin lead from a 6:1 balun located as close to your tuner as you can get it.

Also, spend some time on this site:
http://www.cebik.com/radio.html

Here's one more vote for Antec supplies.

To see if the monitor is causing the problem, just boot up the computer while listening to the interference on the radio, then after everything is stabilized, unplug the monitor and see if the noise goes away.

N3BIF,
That's funny!
On-line translators are useless for more than one word, and marginal for just one word.

When I was working in S. Korea a year ago, I needed a "Do Not Touch" sign to place on a piece of equipment.  I typed the phrase into an on-line translator and cut and pasted the result into Word to print the sign.  I showed the sign to a Korean friend who roared with laughter.  He never told me what my sign said, but he did make a sign for me that filled the bill.

The info is there if you look hard enough.

http://www.icomamerica.com/support/manuals/AT-140.pdf

I carry a YB-400 (usually sells for around $150)when I travel. I find that it suites most of my needs and doesn't take up much room.  If you are willing to spend around $450, and are willing to lug around a little more weight and bulk, the Sony ICF 2010 is pretty hard to beat.

I know that, in the Tacoma, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank.