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 on: Today at 09:43:48 PM 
Started by K7RLD - Last post by K7RLD
I shot off an email to Carl yesterday. I'm not quite sure what his new email is. The address with "mv" in it bounces.

John / K7RLD

 on: Today at 09:42:49 PM 
Started by BILLW - Last post by W6EM
Thank you Lee for the professional consult.

What I'm understanding is that I will need to get a wire from the panel in my kitchen to the outside of my house and the antenna ground rod. Honestly, I don't think this will be possible without any sharp bends as it would have to negotiate quite a few wall corners to make its way outside. I would also doubt the ability of that gauge of wire to be fished through the studded walls without ripping them apart. There is a female who would not be onboard with demolition.

If the panel is on an exterior wall, you might be able to fish it (or a small string or rope, since more flexible) using an insulated fish rod up and through a bottom panel knock-out.  You could then connect your antenna and radio grounds to the rod outside and run them up to your equipment and go through a wall upstairs, if on the same side of your house.  If remote, you might have to use the attic to route it across and down to the room where your gear is.
If this is not possible, what is your opinion of connecting the antenna's feed line to an isolated ground rod with a second run of feed line into the house - the feed line would be disconnected when not in use, physically / electrically separating the antenna from the house?



That would be risky, as someone touched on the floating or failed utility service neutral scenario.  With underground aluminum service drops that most utilities use today, it is quite common to have corrosion occur which effectively opens the neutral.  When that happens, the isolated neutrals will shift due to unbalanced 120V load on them, causing a significant offset voltage from ground.  And, with a lousy grounding electrode (like a 25 ohm one) it would be raised as well, since not much current would flow through the ground back to the utility transformer.  Then, anything connected to your isolated ground and brought in and connected or just lying close to the elevated service ground in your electrical outlet could have as much as 120V on it with respect to your isolated ground. High risk of electrocution, if that were to occur while you were connecting or disconnecting your feedline to your equipment.

 on: Today at 09:40:00 PM 
Started by N6RHF - Last post by K7EXJ
When TenTec introduced the Omni series of transceivers they made decision to create a CW operator's radio. They offered excellent filters, good performance, and ease of operation. You can get an Omni A or D for under $300 on eBay; do a search for "TenTec Omni" in Radio Communication but check the "sold listings" at the left sidebar to see what prices the rigs have sold for. Omnis only got better as the years (and the versions) went along. Today an Omni VI+ would fetch a price around $1,000 and guys like me haunt the classifieds looking for a "deal".

Sometimes you can snag an Omni V for under $400.

These were superb radios in their day and remain excellent radios now. And they were all 100w transceivers capable of SSB as well as CW so when you upgrade your license you'll be all set.

You will probably have to buy a power supply with the appropriate current ratings so factor that in. And an antenna tuner if you don't use resonant antennas.

And a Morse code key.

But with only CW privileges on HF now, I can't think of a better way to get on the air with quality gear. Just make sure that you pay with PayPal and that the description doesn't have any "gotchas" in it.

Edit: Make sure you do some research on the most likely issues and query the sellers to see if the rig they're offering is subject to those issues. I think I'd try to get a deal on an Omni V but the Omni II is, even now, fetching high prices due to its performance.

 on: Today at 09:32:41 PM 
Started by AK0B - Last post by K5LXP
Except, it assumes your supply and your radio don't share a ground.  Fine for battery, usually.  It also adds 2 diode drops which can diminish the input voltage to sometimes input voltage sensitive QRP rigs.  They also waste power commensurate to the current run through them.   That's why you often see crowbars instead, they don't drop or dissipate anything during normal operation.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM

 on: Today at 09:24:40 PM 
Started by N6RHF - Last post by K5LXP

Desired power output?  The only CW-only radios you're going to find are QRP.  For 100W radios they will be all mode.  Can you put a number on "not too expensive"?

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM

 on: Today at 09:22:37 PM 
Started by EI1DG - Last post by K5LXP

Short tab end - 17mm
Horizontal section - 65mm
Long vertical section - 250mm
~3mm hole 7mm from the end for the capacitor.

I have two here, one is 13mm wide, the other is 19mm wide, ~1mm thick.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM

 on: Today at 09:19:00 PM 
Started by K1WMT - Last post by WB8VLC
You have already made too many mistakes on this subject so this tells some of us that you should probably stop now while you are ahead.

The following comments are made assuming that you are using your personal hammy handheld.

Mistake 1:  I won't even bring up the fact that your crappy ham ht isn't legal for transmit outside of the 144-148 MHZ band because you obviously don't care.

Mistake 2: Have you measured your crappy hammy ht to even see if it's transmitting and is it on frequency? and if so if it's putting out any power?

Mistake 3. Do you have your crappy hammy ht set to narrowband?

Do you know what NB even is?

Mistake 4 and probably the biggest. You appear to be relying on Blantons RR database information to be correct and we all know that Blanton knows more about radio than anyone else so RADIO RETARDS database must be correct.

Mistake 5. Did you even attempt to measure the tx frequency of YOUR BK GPH/DPH radio along with trying to find out the proper CTCSS or DCS signaling?

And I'm not referring to the ctcss  tone or docs code that the repeater is transmitting back to users because this is probably a different ctcss/dcs than the repeater receiver requires.

Mistake 6. Did you trying contacting THE NIFC in Boise and ask someone with knowledge for the information that you seek. (waiting for someone to laugh hysterically at your request)

 on: Today at 08:46:05 PM 
Started by KC8KTN - Last post by KC8KTN
Everyone take care the repeater and simplex POLICE...

 on: Today at 08:45:34 PM 
Started by WY7CHY - Last post by WY7CHY
Thanks WB6BYU. Unfortunately, the feed point, would be on the side. So one lead from the balun would go towards the high side, while the other lead from the balun would go towards the low side. Unfortunately, there's no way around this. It's the only place I can get the feed to the shack.

Another thing about raising the one end up to the 30 foot branch, is that it may force me to add about another 10 feet of antenna element. According to most, the more wire, the better. Luckily with loops, using a tuner, resonant length is not important. As long as you're close to resonant on the lowest frequency you're going to use. Which I'm a little short on. So adding 10 feet or so might help a little. Thanks. Mike.

 on: Today at 08:44:47 PM 
Started by JS6TMW - Last post by WB8VLC
Don't be surprised if the next time you deal with TSA to find out that you are on a TSA naughty list.

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