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 on: Today at 07:56:23 PM 
Started by KD0PO - Last post by KD0PO
their on-line log is real time...


 on: Today at 07:48:01 PM 
Started by NA9R - Last post by NO2A
They only work in ssb. For cw you really need the mechanical filter.

 on: Today at 07:44:17 PM 
Started by W8KFJ - Last post by N2DTS
I do not think I would need better performance (or much better anyway) then the  icom 7300, but would want more controls, more ins and outs, a bigger screen or the ability to use a big monitor.
Actually, for my use, I think I would want a flex, a 5000 for the money.
The 6300 has limited ins and outs and likely still has the loud flex 3000 fan setup.
The 6500 gets too pricey for me.

 on: Today at 07:39:00 PM 
Started by W8KFJ - Last post by NI8R
Money is what you spend, value is what you get.(buffet)

I don't think you would ever utter the words ftdx5k and compare to a sdr if you owned one. I am a yaesu fan, but the 5k is the worst product I have ever owned in that category. You cannot compare an ANAN to a flex 5k,

I have a flex 6500, an Anan 100d, a 7851 and a ic7100, I have owned a ftdx 9000mp, ftdx5000, a k3 and a ts590sg, tentec argosy, jupiter and Omni 7 , icom 9100, ft450d, kx3, all in the past 3 years. Like Lee, I am not on a budget. I could have anyone I choose.

The Anan, the flex and the 7851 are the best you will find, choose one of them and be on your way knowing it will never be better.

100 watts from the ts590sg travels the same distance and 100 watts from the 7851. The difference is how you hear the station on the other end, you will spend a lot of dollars for only slight improvements over the ic7300 when all is said and done.

As for me, I know better is available and I want it.  Down conversion rigs are out of my shack. I prefer sdr's and up conversion rigs.

Greg ni8r

 on: Today at 07:21:25 PM 
Started by NEVBEN - Last post by VE3LYX
The adventure trying to get  signal to Andrew from here with low power was an adventure I will not forget. He laid out a schedule that worked for both of us and a freq that was good for us both. he picked a specific time and we tried it night after night. Sometimes a "maybe signal but we kept at it. I figurd he was getting tired of the project but I was wrong and then one night is all came together.
I think I can say and he would agree that my signal at that level would have been ignored by most. That fact that he was looking for it is what made the difference. Since then we discovered we have similar interests and hobbies.
When I built the bare essentials rig (1970s design Elec Illustrated) it was in the late 1980s. For years I tried it with no success. And yet I knew from testing it was working and so restrained myself form dismantling it. Then one night in this current century someone in a vintage group said put it on the air, we will listen for it. It worked perfectly and I got reports from as far away as NC .
Same goes for the real old stuff like the TNT and Harltey 1929 style.  I could pound brass all day and get nothing but on the Bruce Kelley weekend for vIntge rigs it was all I could do to keep up with replys. Why? Because they we looking for that type of signal that weekend.
Currently i built a transceiver srt of in the style of the old Weskit BN-1 but with my own circuits. It has a decent signal and and inut on transmit of around 6 watts. It has been going about 2 weeks now and I have yet to make a contact. Can't get anyone to say give it a shot and I will listen for you. And yet when testing it is better then some I have that have been proven on air. I would be not a strong signal but certainly usable> still against the modern monotone perfect Cw signal common today from our kNwoods and Yaseua s etc it get ignored. Sometimes when homebrew I do get answers from folks who hear the old style signal and who are curious .
A sked  instantly fixes the problem. And only takes a few minutes.

 on: Today at 07:20:13 PM 
Started by N2AWJ - Last post by KA5IPF
The front-panel tactile push buttons on my TS-140 became intermittent and unreliable. I searched for the Kenwood part number S50-1412-05 but did not find any sources. I did find an exact match for an equivalent part on DigiKey. The DigiKey part number is 679-2428-ND. The manufacturers part number is MJTP1230. The price is USD 0.10 each.
I replaced all 10 switches on the front panel and they work great. 

It is an effort to dismantle the front panel assembly to remove the board holding the switches.  Go slow and take pictures at each step before dismantling.  Don't just pull on the flat-cable connectors; there is a release bar at the top of the connector which secures the cable and provides a low insertion force when reinserting the cable.

When you do a search using a Kenwood part number they will be the only supplier. You have to figure out who the supplier to Kenwood is. As you did. At least you found a sub.

 on: Today at 07:18:16 PM 
Started by ZS5WC - Last post by KA5IPF
:)Thanks for the replies!.. I am hoping replacing the cell will also resolve the TS-870s occasionally partially booting up when 13.8v is applied,

73 de William

It won't fix that, probably. That is usually a bad power switch.

 on: Today at 07:15:52 PM 
Started by KC1CJN - Last post by KD8MJR
Follow Marks advice, locate the part on the schematic and then find out what it is connected to.
You should be able to run a bodge wire from the component to that point and then use some hot glue to keep the component in place.


 on: Today at 07:09:13 PM 
Started by VK3MEG - Last post by KD8MJR
How many official IOTAs are there?
I imagine it must be in the thousands


 on: Today at 07:02:58 PM 
Started by NA9R - Last post by SWMAN
With my 570 when I turn those controls, they seem like glorified tone controls. Doesn't really do much at all. I never use them. Seems like one is treble and one is bass. I just keep them both wide open. 73. Jim W5JJG

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