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Author Topic: Mobile Battery Connections  (Read 4916 times)
N4SRN
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Posts: 305




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« Reply #15 on: February 24, 2017, 06:59:36 AM »

I'll look for that stud bolt mentioned. I found some fuse connectors but they are 16g 15AMP. OK if no stud bolt?
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Bret/N4SRN
Bedford, NH  USA
W8JX
Member

Posts: 12092




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« Reply #16 on: February 24, 2017, 07:08:31 AM »


Mark, we do not agree on much but do here. Today's "smart cars" that can even report a burned out light bulb require a different mind set for powering add on accessories than from the distant past when a direct battery connection was the path. You need to feed your rig from main fuse panel and not battery and anyone that suggests that a direct battery connection is better has no real understanding how modern cars work. Kinda like the IT guys that always recommended nuking and re-installing windows as SOP to fix a problem because they were pretty clueless too on how and why it works and how to fix it proper.     

So how does one connect through the fuse box? Is there a fuse with a power connection that I can just plug in?

Typicality a car/SUV will have a few fuse panels. A main one usually under the hood and at least one or more in car somewhere. Locations vary with car/SUV.  Main panel, usually under hood, you will find at least one unused aux feed with no fuse in it and a stud to bolt feed too. (it is that way on GM trucks/SUV's and main panel is protected with a fusible link from main battery) On sub panels in cars they is usually empty sockets as well that have spade connectors on them. Also remember that fuses in sub panels are all fed from same buss or buses meaning that they are all capable of same current potential within limitation of main buss fuse under hood.

I think he meant what does he use to actually make the connection.

On main fuse panel aux terminal is typically a thread stud with a bolt and you can use a terminal lug of correct size. On sub panels you typically use a female spade connector.
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Ham since 1969....  Old School 20wpm REAL Extra Class..
W8JX
Member

Posts: 12092




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« Reply #17 on: February 25, 2017, 03:26:24 AM »

I'll look for that stud bolt mentioned. I found some fuse connectors but they are 16g 15AMP. OK if no stud bolt?

This can work. Some would be amazed at the amount of power/current that goes though car circuits (wiring and fuse panels) on wiring sized smaller than they think is needed and thru spade connectors and it does it day after day, week after week, month after month, year after year without failure, melted wiring or fires. When you look are wire current ratings, when run in romex in a house vs in single wire like in a car, the safe current capacity of wire is a lot higher in single wire runs. 
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Ham since 1969....  Old School 20wpm REAL Extra Class..
N4SRN
Member

Posts: 305




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« Reply #18 on: February 26, 2017, 06:01:11 AM »

Here's my main fuse box under the hood. No stud bolt I can find, unfortunately.

How does this fuse tap look? Is 10Amp enough?  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001QRSBW0/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1488117531&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=auto+fuse+tap
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Bret/N4SRN
Bedford, NH  USA
W8JX
Member

Posts: 12092




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« Reply #19 on: February 26, 2017, 06:15:18 AM »

The minimum buss feed for those fuses is 30 amp after looking at picture. The fuse feed in question will have no trouble powering rig. Also remember a 30 amp fuse does not blow at 30 amps. That is is designed load. It will blow 15 to 25% above that and are slow blow in nature.
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Ham since 1969....  Old School 20wpm REAL Extra Class..
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