Call Search
     

New to Ham Radio?
My Profile

Community
Articles
Forums
News
Reviews
Friends Remembered
Strays
Survey Question

Operating
Contesting
DX Cluster Spots
Propagation

Resources
Calendar
Classifieds
Ham Exams
Ham Links
List Archives
News Articles
Product Reviews
QSL Managers

Site Info
eHam Help (FAQ)
Support the site
The eHam Team
Advertising Info
Vision Statement
About eHam.net

donate to eham
   Home   Help Search  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Hamstick whip storage  (Read 2031 times)
KK4GGL
Member

Posts: 1293




Ignore
« on: February 27, 2017, 05:17:29 AM »

I am in the process of putting together a few hamstick style dipoles. Does anyone know if any problems could result from storing the whip inside the fiberglass pole for transport?
Logged

73,
Rick KK4GGL
W8JX
Member

Posts: 12082




Ignore
« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2017, 06:05:15 AM »

I used ham sticks clones for many years and still do. I used Valor/Pro-Am versions with a B nut on top the whip was held in with a set screw. This allowed B nut to be removed and antenna length roughly cut in have for storage. I did two thing to keep top whips from getting mixed up, I marked base of whip below B nut with scribe marks from a file and then used same number of marks with a perminant marker on base of fiberglass stick. I would also rubber band whip assembly to fiberglass base when storing them and marks were backup if rubber bands failed. I also used a quick disconnect on base to allow quick swaps. I had a suburban and while it was possible to store the full length, I would break them down if I was not planning on using them soon.

As far as storing whip inside base, there is not a major problem but a weakness of this is the set screw holding them is not design for frequent use and will easily strip out head. ( I would carry a bag of spare screws ) The reason I never used hamstick brand sticks is because of this in that you have to use set screw to take them apart. The brand's above mount whip in a B nut that threads out of fiberglass base and breaks down easily.
Logged

--------------------------------------
Ham since 1969....  Old School 20wpm REAL Extra Class..
KG4RUL
Member

Posts: 3077


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2017, 06:30:18 AM »

Some Lakeview "Hamsticks" have wiring internal to the fiber glass tune.  Storing the whip in the tube can can irreparably damage it.  The better choice is the MFJ "Hamtenna" which has the whip installed with a screw-in ferrule.
Logged
W8JX
Member

Posts: 12082




Ignore
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2017, 07:15:04 AM »

On a side note, it is important that the whip does not extend down into windings on fiberglass base because it effects tuning. If you have to shorten whip to tune to frequency in use, trim stub end on whip so it does not project to inside windings on base.
Logged

--------------------------------------
Ham since 1969....  Old School 20wpm REAL Extra Class..
KK4GGL
Member

Posts: 1293




Ignore
« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2017, 08:01:10 AM »

Some Lakeview "Hamsticks" have wiring internal to the fiber glass tune.  Storing the whip in the tube can can irreparably damage it.  The better choice is the MFJ "Hamtenna" which has the whip installed with a screw-in ferrule.
Most of my "Hamsticks" are from Tower Electonics, 1 or 2 from MFJ.  It looks like most of the wire and coil are on the outside of the fiberglass. That's why I was wondering about just sliding the whips into the fiberglass for storage.
Logged

73,
Rick KK4GGL
N4MU
Member

Posts: 132




Ignore
« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2017, 05:31:32 AM »

I have several hamsticks, in pairs, that I use as dipoles on a telescoping mast. I store them inside a PVC tube. The overall length is just a couple inches longer than the 4' hamstick with PVC caps on each end (bottom cap has 3/16" hole drilled in center for air/moisture release). I identify the whips/sticks with colored electrical tape (20M=red, 30M=orange, 40M=yellow, etc) and it works out great. The PVC tube was cut at about 40" and a coupling glued in place so the remainder is a "cap" for the tube that allows easy access to the sticks and whips. This way you do not have to retune every time you remove/reinstall. Works great!
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!